I have a 91 F150 Lariat that refuses to start. When I turn the key, i get power to the truck, but it won't turn over. I've tried jumping the solenoid, and it WILL turn over, but it won't start. I think it might be a problem with either the actuating rod that goes into the ignition switch, or the ignition switch itself.
Any help would be very appreciated.

 

Also I've tried swapping out the key cylinder. The entire steering column was swapped out last month and replaced with a used one from Pick and Pull.

 

Sounds like the actuator is broken to me. Pull the ignition switch off the top of the column, down towards the firewall, and see if you can work it by hand.

 

Its the actuator rod and its only $13 dollars at Auto Zone, Takes about an hour and two 6/32 screw to fix. take the column apart down to the tilt wheel. thread in the screws to the tilt wheel pivits and pull the pins out, be carefull of the springs inside they hurt like hell if you catch one in the face. Pull old actuator rod and pieces out replace with new one. put it back togeather and viola done!

 

Thanks a lot guys. I'll give it a shot.

 

So the ignition switch works but not 100%.

+1 that it may be the actuator rod, but there are a lot of other things it could be. In a tilt wheel, which presumably your Lariat has, there are 2 pieces to the actuator. Unlike with the fixed wheel, the more common failure in the tilts is for the one with teeth to get worn out and skip a tooth. Likewise, the little brass gear that the cylinder engages with can get worn, but this is farily uncommon as it's relatively hard.

So make sure you check these parts before going to buy anything.

And of course don't forget to test the ignition switch itself. They have been known to go bad from time to time, or after, say, 40,000 cycles and 20 years. They can also come out of adjustment from the little nuts vibrating loose.

 

Here's my write-up on actuator replacement from a few years back:

Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator 1987-91


1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the roll pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.

 

The actuator rod is VERY common on those trucks
FORD #E9TZ-3E715-B, MSRP $18.47

 

It turns out both the rod and the switch were the problem. i got a new switch and jerry-rigged the rod for the time being. Haha, its a keyless start until i get the rest of it done. Definitely need to lock the doors until then. Jas88 and the rest of you saved my a**. Thanks a lot guys!