Most times a IDM failure will code. Also an IDM can sense a failure and shut down the whole bank of inj (limp) so not to burnup (IDM). With his high egt it could be in IDM Limp.

Just a WAG as of now.
Bill

 

You guys wont believe this. I went out this afternoon to see if I could do the ohm test. Well I took the same two connections off that I tested to confirm that my first idm was bad and I noticed that in the connectors, where I stuck the prongs on my voltameter. They were bent almost all the way up. Like the prongs were clearly bigger then what they should have been to go in the connector. I thought well if those are so far back then I bet that we had a connection problem, so I bent them back the best I could, and now we are back in business. I feel pretty stupid but very thankful. It could have been alot worse. Well here in this house it will be a Happy Thanksgiving, and I hope all yours is too. Thanks for all the suggestions that truely led me to the answer.


Also one last thing is their a way to replace those connectors so I know for sure that I'm getting a good connection? I didn't think so, but I thought I would ask.

 

The two pins you are talking about are they at the IDM or the valve cover? if at the VC yes they are replaceable with a kit that comes with a new connector and pins in case you burn the harness connector. if the pins are on the gasket then you have to replace the gasket.
If the pins are at the IDM I am sure they are fixable but it would take some digging to get the right parts.

 

No not the pins, but the female connector at the gaskets. I stuck my voltameter prongs in their and the normal fit right around the pins, but mine were bent because of me. The side that runs to the IDM.

 

Oh I see. you can take the connector apart with a small screw driver or pick and straighten it. But you need to be very careful cause that plastic is brittle as all get out after this long in that engine heat. there are little lock tabs on each female connector holding it into the outer body.

 

Cool!!!
Still shure about the modded IDM is toast?

Bill

 

Yes, I was going to ask the same question.

 

Yes unfortunatly I am sure that the modded IDM is toast. I didn't do the ohm test until after I put the modded one in, so even though that turned out to be the problem with putting the prongs in the connector. I hadnt ohm tested it until it wouldnt start only after I had put it back in. Then I tested to find that the IDM was now bad, but I never got a code when the bad IDM was hooked up. I cant explain that, but I can't say why the other idm went bad either. The only reason I can come up with for my idm going bad is that I did the work to it inside where their is warm air and then sealed it and brought it out side where it is in the thirties. I think that maybe I got some condensation in the box and that might have done it. Maybe

 

I dont think it would be a condensation issue. The IDM ckt board has a good coating on it. I would think it was to much solder caused a short. The circuit for that resistor is an in and out. Its surrounded by - or + ckt. Dont remember which. The best way to do an IDM mod is to just crack the resistor off with a small screwdriver. Bend 2 little L shaped ends on the new resistor and solder right on the pads. Doing it this way you only heat the board for the install only. Also i use sealant on the resistor to glue it to one of the caps on the board. Just so not to vibrate.

Cool that your back on the road again though!
The IDM mod you would have liked. The response is better on the bottom. The part i like most is that the cold starts are better with the mod.

If you still want a modded IDM PM me. I have a Chit load of resistors for the 100 and 110.

Bill

 

I have been running the truck for three days now, and it is reliable, but I have two things I cant figure out. I believe that the truck is louder than before from some odd reason, and that maybe from the second symptom. While idling the idle isn't as steady as it use to be. It jumps around from six to seven most of the time, but some of the time it drops down to five or goes over seven. I thought that the Superduty IDM was suppose to help smooth out the idle. I was brain storming and I thought that since I put the new fuel pump in that the fuel preasure might be a little high, but do you guys think that high fuel preasure could cause this? I'm not sure. Any ideas? And still no codes so I dont think anything major is wrong.

Also is there a gel or something conductive that I can put in those valve gasket connections to make sure they are getting a good connection?

 

What is your fuel pressure now? I put a HP x-over line on mine and it smoothed the idle abit.

 

I'm not sure what the preasure is right now. It was 70 psi before I put the new fuel pump in. I also have the Hp cross-over already. I guess that is why I am thinking that it should be smoother than what it is.

 

Check the pressure I hear our systems don't like anything over 80 psi.

 

When I changed the fuel pump, my fuel pressure doesnt change. (I didnt make anything to the FPR shim, that it already has)

 

Third symptom I am leaking diesel still. I havent had the time to sheck it out, but I am pretty sure I got everything tight. I wonder what could be leaking. Obviously there are a lot of possibilities, but anywhere I should look first.