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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 09:07 PM
  #1  
SpnkyMcGee's Avatar
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Newbie w/a question

Howdy guys. New guy here with a 62 Unibody. It's got the original 223. I am close to almost (get it?) finished with my work on it.

I took it down to bare metal and got it back together. It's painted "hot rod black". I hope to re-do the interior next summer as well as a lowering job.

My question is this. I have been told that this motor is a "Zero lash" motor that has, obviously, zero lash.

How do I set the valves on this thing? I ordered the manual but it won't be in for another week. Does anyone have a manual that could email or post the process? Any suggestions?

Also, I need a new carb as this 1bbl Holley has been severely abused. Any suggestions or recos? Engine is stock for now.

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 09:38 PM
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itsmywifestruck
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I have a complete 223 with a half decent carb...I am not really wanting to break the motor apart quite yet...but let me think on it.


ROb
 
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 09:41 PM
  #3  
Orange '63's Avatar
Orange '63
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From: Gaffney, SC
Zero lash means there is no clearance (lash) between the rocker arm and the valve stem. This is everything you need to know:

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=techarticle&id=2

As far as 1 bbl carburetors, the carter YF is the best. Junkyard price around here is $15 to $20 and a rebuild kit is $13.
 

Last edited by Orange '63; Nov 14, 2007 at 09:59 PM. Reason: mistyped
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 08:51 AM
  #4  
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Mountain Pass
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As far as I know, the "Zero Lash Mechanical Automatic Adjusters" were only used in Ford cars with a 223 from about 1962-64, and used a special camshaft profile. You might ask for help on a forum devoted to the Ford Galaxie. They were also called "Silent Lash Rocker Arms".

Here's what I have written down in my notebook from another post:

Place No.1 piston at top dead center on compression stroke. Push the eccentric toward the rocker arm shaft untill the plunger is completely pushed into its bore in the rocker arm. Turn the adjusting screw in until the eccentric and plunger are held in the depressed postion. Slowly turn the adjusting screw out untill the adjustment mark on the eccentric is centered over the valve stem. Tighten the lock nut on the adjustment.

Do both intake and exhaust the same way, then turn to next cyl in firing order and do the same. 1-5-3-6-2-4

The adjustment mark they are talking about, is a mark about 1/4 inch long, stamped in the side of the eccentric.

Good luck.

Jim Kozisek
Fort Collins, CO
 
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 10:12 PM
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Thanks guys

Great stuff!
 
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 10:47 PM
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NumberDummy
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From: Simi Valley, CA
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Welcome to FTE

I couldn't find a new carb, but here's the Ford & Motorcraft part number for the Holley 1V kit.

C2AZ-9A586-D (Motorcraft CT-161-A)

NAPA can cross the Motorcraft # to the brand they sell.

You might call FTE sponsor Green Sales, they may have a rebuilt carb (no new one, I checked): 800-543-4959

 

Last edited by NumberDummy; Nov 15, 2007 at 10:51 PM.
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Old Nov 18, 2007 | 11:51 PM
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Thanks ND

Much appreciated!

Originally Posted by NumberDummy
Welcome to FTE

I couldn't find a new carb, but here's the Ford & Motorcraft part number for the Holley 1V kit.

C2AZ-9A586-D (Motorcraft CT-161-A)

NAPA can cross the Motorcraft # to the brand they sell.

You might call FTE sponsor Green Sales, they may have a rebuilt carb (no new one, I checked): 800-543-4959

 
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