&%$*#@+$ PSD
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
Likes: 3
From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
Roger I don't know what happens when you don't have the damper and run splits but I do know that you can as my truck has been that way for atleast 50k. I have never checked fuel pressure on my truck to see what it is and how if fluctuates but it runs well.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,266
Likes: 0
From: Levittown
Tim
Will run fine just more noise.
It dampens the double pulse of the injectors. Reason for the higher pressure of the system. Without the damper you gain inj noise letting off throttle and at idle. Its just like crackle/idle knock.
Bill
Will run fine just more noise.
It dampens the double pulse of the injectors. Reason for the higher pressure of the system. Without the damper you gain inj noise letting off throttle and at idle. Its just like crackle/idle knock.
Bill
Last edited by MADVAN; Nov 16, 2007 at 10:51 AM.
FOREIGN GURU
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,655
Likes: 7
From: Celaya, Gto. MX
Maybe To Late
BUT I found this in my records:
CALIFORNA TRUCK FUEL PUMP R&R<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o
></o>
<o> </o>
Buya 1/2 " drive, impact socket 1-1/4" and tack welded it to a piece of 1-1/4" black pipe, put it in a metal band saw and cut off the socket leaving only enough to grab the banjo bolt, then ground the tack welds off and ended up with a socket short enough to reach in and unscrew the banjo bolt. Using a 3/8 drive swivel head ratchet and a 3/8 to 1/2" drive adaptor, I managed to break the banjo bolt loose, and finally get it out. I loosened the fuel filter canister and slid it towards the fan, replaced all the fuel lines with Ford factory lines, and new crush washers on the banjo bolt, cleaned the screen on the FPR while I was there. To re-assemble I used a plastic tip off a silicone tube, (new here not used) shoved that into one of the holes of the banjo bolt and then a screwdriver into the tip of the tube,(sounds weird but it worked) shoving the banjo bolt into the fuel line assembly and the pump. Best part of all the truck fired right up with no leaks. Hope this info will help someone on their fuel pump replacement.<o></o>
The fuel dampener was not removed separately; I had loosened the fuel lines at the fuel galleys at the rear of the heads and slid the dampener/fuel line assay slightly towards the firewall. This allowed the lift pump to come pretty much straight up and out of the valley. It really went pretty smooth. I used a little light grease to hold the banjo bolt washers in place until I could get the banjo bolt started back in.<o></o>
for what its worth, Im now running no pulse dampener and it runs the same. Without the dampener it is much easier to get to the banjo bolt also.<o></o>
CALIFORNA TRUCK FUEL PUMP R&R<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o><o
> </o>Buya 1/2 " drive, impact socket 1-1/4" and tack welded it to a piece of 1-1/4" black pipe, put it in a metal band saw and cut off the socket leaving only enough to grab the banjo bolt, then ground the tack welds off and ended up with a socket short enough to reach in and unscrew the banjo bolt. Using a 3/8 drive swivel head ratchet and a 3/8 to 1/2" drive adaptor, I managed to break the banjo bolt loose, and finally get it out. I loosened the fuel filter canister and slid it towards the fan, replaced all the fuel lines with Ford factory lines, and new crush washers on the banjo bolt, cleaned the screen on the FPR while I was there. To re-assemble I used a plastic tip off a silicone tube, (new here not used) shoved that into one of the holes of the banjo bolt and then a screwdriver into the tip of the tube,(sounds weird but it worked) shoving the banjo bolt into the fuel line assembly and the pump. Best part of all the truck fired right up with no leaks. Hope this info will help someone on their fuel pump replacement.<o
></o>The fuel dampener was not removed separately; I had loosened the fuel lines at the fuel galleys at the rear of the heads and slid the dampener/fuel line assay slightly towards the firewall. This allowed the lift pump to come pretty much straight up and out of the valley. It really went pretty smooth. I used a little light grease to hold the banjo bolt washers in place until I could get the banjo bolt started back in.<o
></o>for what its worth, Im now running no pulse dampener and it runs the same. Without the dampener it is much easier to get to the banjo bolt also.<o
></o>
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,795
Likes: 1
From: Rogue River, OR
Originally Posted by RÖENTGEEP
BUT I found this in my records:
CALIFORNA TRUCK FUEL PUMP R&Rfficeffice" /><o>></o>>
<o>> </o>>
Buya 1/2 " drive, impact socket 1-1/4" and tack welded it to a piece of 1-1/4" black pipe, put it in a metal band saw and cut off the socket leaving only enough to grab the banjo bolt, then ground the tack welds off and ended up with a socket short enough to reach in and unscrew the banjo bolt. Using a 3/8 drive swivel head ratchet and a 3/8 to 1/2" drive adaptor, I managed to break the banjo bolt loose, and finally get it out. I loosened the fuel filter canister and slid it towards the fan, replaced all the fuel lines with Ford factory lines, and new crush washers on the banjo bolt, cleaned the screen on the FPR while I was there. To re-assemble I used a plastic tip off a silicone tube, (new here not used) shoved that into one of the holes of the banjo bolt and then a screwdriver into the tip of the tube,(sounds weird but it worked) shoving the banjo bolt into the fuel line assembly and the pump. Best part of all the truck fired right up with no leaks. Hope this info will help someone on their fuel pump replacement.<o>></o>>
The fuel dampener was not removed separately; I had loosened the fuel lines at the fuel galleys at the rear of the heads and slid the dampener/fuel line assay slightly towards the firewall. This allowed the lift pump to come pretty much straight up and out of the valley. It really went pretty smooth. I used a little light grease to hold the banjo bolt washers in place until I could get the banjo bolt started back in.<o>></o>>
for what its worth, Im now running no pulse dampener and it runs the same. Without the dampener it is much easier to get to the banjo bolt also.<o>></o>>
CALIFORNA TRUCK FUEL PUMP R&Rffice
ffice" /><o>></o>><o>
> </o>>Buya 1/2 " drive, impact socket 1-1/4" and tack welded it to a piece of 1-1/4" black pipe, put it in a metal band saw and cut off the socket leaving only enough to grab the banjo bolt, then ground the tack welds off and ended up with a socket short enough to reach in and unscrew the banjo bolt. Using a 3/8 drive swivel head ratchet and a 3/8 to 1/2" drive adaptor, I managed to break the banjo bolt loose, and finally get it out. I loosened the fuel filter canister and slid it towards the fan, replaced all the fuel lines with Ford factory lines, and new crush washers on the banjo bolt, cleaned the screen on the FPR while I was there. To re-assemble I used a plastic tip off a silicone tube, (new here not used) shoved that into one of the holes of the banjo bolt and then a screwdriver into the tip of the tube,(sounds weird but it worked) shoving the banjo bolt into the fuel line assembly and the pump. Best part of all the truck fired right up with no leaks. Hope this info will help someone on their fuel pump replacement.<o>
></o>>The fuel dampener was not removed separately; I had loosened the fuel lines at the fuel galleys at the rear of the heads and slid the dampener/fuel line assay slightly towards the firewall. This allowed the lift pump to come pretty much straight up and out of the valley. It really went pretty smooth. I used a little light grease to hold the banjo bolt washers in place until I could get the banjo bolt started back in.<o>
></o>>for what its worth, Im now running no pulse dampener and it runs the same. Without the dampener it is much easier to get to the banjo bolt also.<o>
></o>>Did you actually do this proceedure to your truck or did you find these instructions somewhere??
Going on the assumtion that you did this. Did you then use a banjo bolt and fuel lines from a later model truck that did not have the access port for the dampner disc? The fuel lines on a non-Dampner model would need a shorter bonjo bolt as the 11/2" area for the dampner to screw into would be gone.
Have you noticed any difference in the way the truck runs? Sounds? Anything?
If there is a way to eliminate that Dampner disc W/O doing damage to any part of my engine it's as good as done. It would be nice to have some spec's on that dampner. I was wondering if the dampner that I bought to install between the FPR and the fuel pressure gauge would be sufficent to dampen the "Spikes" if each line coming from the pump to each fuel manufold at the heads? HMmmmmmmmm
Coonhunter hasn't jumped in on this delima yet. Joe, are you OK?
Rog
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,795
Likes: 1
From: Rogue River, OR
Originally Posted by tjbeggs
Roger I don't know what happens when you don't have the damper and run splits but I do know that you can as my truck has been that way for atleast 50k. I have never checked fuel pressure on my truck to see what it is and how if fluctuates but it runs well.
Aren't you running single shot injectors? I seem to recall that you have AD Inj. and those are single shot arent they? Mine are AB (Ithink)
Rog
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,266
Likes: 0
From: Levittown
AB and AD are splits. The Ad has a bigger shot (CC).
My pump (cali) gets replaced tomorrow. Gee what fun.
I will be pulling the turbo. Like the last 4 times.
Bill
My pump (cali) gets replaced tomorrow. Gee what fun.
I will be pulling the turbo. Like the last 4 times.
Bill
Last edited by MADVAN; Nov 16, 2007 at 08:37 PM.
FOREIGN GURU
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,655
Likes: 7
From: Celaya, Gto. MX
Originally Posted by kawa
Roentgeep:
Did you actually do this proceedure to your truck or did you find these instructions somewhere??
Going on the assumtion that you did this. Did you then use a banjo bolt and fuel lines from a later model truck that did not have the access port for the dampner disc? The fuel lines on a non-Dampner model would need a shorter bonjo bolt as the 11/2" area for the dampner to screw into would be gone.
Have you noticed any difference in the way the truck runs? Sounds? Anything?
If there is a way to eliminate that Dampner disc W/O doing damage to any part of my engine it's as good as done. It would be nice to have some spec's on that dampner. I was wondering if the dampner that I bought to install between the FPR and the fuel pressure gauge would be sufficent to dampen the "Spikes" if each line coming from the pump to each fuel manufold at the heads? HMmmmmmmmm
Coonhunter hasn't jumped in on this delima yet. Joe, are you OK?
Rog
Did you actually do this proceedure to your truck or did you find these instructions somewhere??
Going on the assumtion that you did this. Did you then use a banjo bolt and fuel lines from a later model truck that did not have the access port for the dampner disc? The fuel lines on a non-Dampner model would need a shorter bonjo bolt as the 11/2" area for the dampner to screw into would be gone.
Have you noticed any difference in the way the truck runs? Sounds? Anything?
If there is a way to eliminate that Dampner disc W/O doing damage to any part of my engine it's as good as done. It would be nice to have some spec's on that dampner. I was wondering if the dampner that I bought to install between the FPR and the fuel pressure gauge would be sufficent to dampen the "Spikes" if each line coming from the pump to each fuel manufold at the heads? HMmmmmmmmm
Coonhunter hasn't jumped in on this delima yet. Joe, are you OK?
Rog
Last edited by RÖENTGEEP; Nov 16, 2007 at 08:50 PM.
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Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,764
Likes: 39
Originally Posted by MADVAN
AB and AD are splits. The Ad has a bigger shot (CC).
My pump (cali) gets replaced tomorrow. Gee what fun.
I will be pulling the turbo. Like the last 4 times.
Bill
My pump (cali) gets replaced tomorrow. Gee what fun.
I will be pulling the turbo. Like the last 4 times.
Bill
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,266
Likes: 0
From: Levittown
Rick
Iam Fedup with this pump crap! I think its a ULSD thing.
This old pump is going in the box and sent back as a new defect.
New pumps only last a year or so. Its BS.
Let the counter deal with it.
Bill
Iam Fedup with this pump crap! I think its a ULSD thing.
This old pump is going in the box and sent back as a new defect.
New pumps only last a year or so. Its BS.
Let the counter deal with it.
Bill
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,795
Likes: 1
From: Rogue River, OR
Bill:
Where have you been buying your pumps? I bought this new "Carter" pump from NAPA Auto parts. I had no Idea that fuel pumps were such a weak point. I'm really now considering eliminating that Dampner.
Come to think of it Bill, is your truck a Cali truck? If not why are you pulling the turbo? Hmmmmm
Rog
Where have you been buying your pumps? I bought this new "Carter" pump from NAPA Auto parts. I had no Idea that fuel pumps were such a weak point. I'm really now considering eliminating that Dampner.
Come to think of it Bill, is your truck a Cali truck? If not why are you pulling the turbo? Hmmmmm
Rog
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,795
Likes: 1
From: Rogue River, OR
OH crap, now I understand his anger, I've been told that they are PITA to get to. My God changing a fuel pump once a year would either make you suicidal or homicidal. Dang.
Roger
Roger
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,795
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From: Rogue River, OR
Originally Posted by tjbeggs
Bill I have never found two listings for the fuel pump when looking it up nor asked about it when I called Ford. I will call them today and see if there are two listings.
Edit- Just looked at Rock Auto and Powerstrokeshop.com and they both only have one listing for the pump. Rock auto also now has an airtex and bosch brand pumps with the carter. must be they decided to get into the game as well. which is news to me.
Kawa, i couldn't find any pics with the damper removed.
Edit- Just looked at Rock Auto and Powerstrokeshop.com and they both only have one listing for the pump. Rock auto also now has an airtex and bosch brand pumps with the carter. must be they decided to get into the game as well. which is news to me.
Kawa, i couldn't find any pics with the damper removed.
My pump box is labled as AIRTEX but the pump is embossed "Carter"