ive searched but cant find good answer.
how do you get the pins out? i have a 51 out of 6 door the pins come out of none.
can you drill them with out hurting the hinge for the new pin?

 

Sounds like you are finding out about the dreaded hinge pins for the first time? I just finished getting the four pins out of the doors of my F1, and did it without any drilling. I'm not sure it would even be possible to drill these things .. they are pretty hard steel. They are splined on the top end too, so you do have to drive them out from below.

The key to it is patience!!! I used PS Blaster penetrating oil on each one, and did a dose for every day for over a week. With the door sitting on a work table, and the hinge braced against a clamped on block of hardwood, with a hole in it, I used a good starting punch with a 1/4" end, and 2lb hand sledge. It took some very hard whacks, and a few doses of heat plus more oil on a couple, but finally each pin did begin moving. Once that happened, I switched over to a longer pin punch and finished driving them out. The replacement pins are sized at .2765 in the area where they have to move ... the center section, and in my case that area of the hinge is worn about .005 too large. I will mill out that section and press in a bushing I'll machine to fit. I'm still looking to find the right sleeve style bushing for that. I might even consider a valve guide style bushing if I can find the right size.

I should mention that I did remove the doors from the cab to do this .... I assume you have done that too? That part of the process was not easy either. The rust beetles had been busy... so the phillips machine screws had no interest in coming out. The hard part with them is that there is not much of a way to get any penetrating oil worked in. I drilled all of them and have now tapped the mount plate for new ones. I will be sure to use anti-sieze compound when I reassemble things.

Hope all this helps some.......

 

I took my doors off too. I clamped the door hinges into a large vice while still attached to the door upside down. Then with the liberal use of PB blaster over several days pounded them out. It's not an easy job.

 

Wow this sounds really memorable. I have a 52 f-2 and ended up breaking about $60 worth of tools and got nowhere. What ever you do DO NOT buy the hinge pin puller from miwest early ford it is junk and broke within 15 min. of use. As for the mounting screws as mentioned above they are just as fun. What I did was get my father inlaw to help snd basicly heated the hell out of the hinges and then used a hammer and punchto pound them out. we did have to grind off the bottom part of the pin and start a tap, made it easier. On 2 I think we even ground off the head and ended up punching it down through, but yes it is a pain in ars and yes i got burns to remember it but what you going to do with old hardend steel... Just remember heat, help, a little sweet talkin, and old fashion kick it's ars. Oh yeh one more thing if you don't have the doors off the truck make sure you put something in the hinge after getting the pin out to keep the door from moving just make sure you can get the peice out like a screwdriver. Hope this helps good luck and have fun.

 

I will be attempting this horrendous job pretty soon myself. From the looks of my hinges someone has already attempted removal and the bottom of the pin is mushroomed beyond belief......great.

My doors and hinges are still mounted on the truck. I plan on using an air hammer to drive them out (well, at least the upper one) I will take an older bit for my air hammer and grind it down to the hinge pin diameter and hopefully all will go well

I have also be informed that if you are going to try to drill the pin out then, obviously you want to make sure that your drill is centered, but you don't need to try and drill the whole pin, just the upper 3/8" of an inch or so. The top of these pins are knurled so that they grip into the upper part of the hinge assy.

Good luck with it
Bobby

 

Bobby I would be careful with the air hammer ecpecially with the doors still on the truck. I had the same problem on my 52 f-2 and we tried the air punch it was not pretty, you can do a lot of dammage. Like I said above we ground the bottoms flush to the hinge heated the hell out of the hinge and used a punch and hammer. It sucks but thus is life of old truck lovers... We also groud the top off I think the bottom hinges and ended up driveing them down through. you cand always get or make a pin just be carefull with the heat it hurts and you don't want to melt or cut the hinges. good luck Casey

 

I drilled mine out. I started by center punching the head dead center. I then used a small drill until it wouldn't drill any more, it was pretty much junk then. I then used a drill just a little smaller than the diameter of the pin. After that one dulled out I use one as large or larger than the head. I drilled just until the head came off and then use a drift pin to drive the pin down, through the hinge. I worked pretty slick. I did ruin a few drills but they can always be sharpened.

 

I tried all of the above means; each pin had a personality of its own. I agree the hinge removal tool is crap, but it did 1 hinge before self destructing. I used heat, penetrating oil, punch, drilling. After a combination of methods, some blue air, considerable amount of time, all were removed. As stated if you can remove doors with hinge then job is more manageable, drilled aned tapped hinge bolts.

When drilling out pins, centering is a must, otherwise you are going to create problems for re-install if pins.
I haven't tried new pin install yet, looking for a good means of reaming hinges first.

good luck, walk away when things pile up on you, exercise patience; oh yeah this hobby is fun right?

Tom

 

That is the truth patience are a vertue when doing these hobbies. 9 times out of 10 if you break it or cut it you can't find it to replace on some series. if you have a f-1 you can get enything f-2 and up you need to referbish alot but at least you can say that it is really close to all origianal then. good luck Casey

 

Yeah, it's real calming

That's why I have my inventory of spare parts, or as my wife calls it, "your piles of junk". Many times I have had to replace a part and I can go into my "pile of junk" and find the part I need. It usually happens on a Sunday afternoon after working all weekend and you just need that one part to make it work. I try to keep enough parts, mechanical and sheet metal, to build one complete truck.

 

Bob you are speacking to the quire. I have a 51 f-2 that i had to buy for the bed alone for my 52 f-2 still the price was good and the truck over all is solid. Unfortunately the bed was to a 53 and the grandson who was selling it didn't know that. Oh well just a little re fabing, fender mounts and tailgate is all i beleive. the thing is solid no rust and origional wood still hard. so let the games contiue. as soon as i can figure out how i will get some pics up. Have fun and keep them running Casey

 

Heres a thought, why not just leave them in? I had thought about taking mine out, then I thought what the heck for...the doors are straight, swing nicely and I really don't need to do any repair work on them so why would I want to create a whole lot of extra work for myself? After reading previous discussions on this subject, I realized that you could do a lot of damage and wind up no further ahead.

 

Check out this thread I posted the other day:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-pictures.html

 

I was just reading "Classic Trucks" last night, and they recommend, with the hinges off, heating QUICKLY to a soft red glow, then just as quickly, driving the pins out with a drift punch slightly smaller than the hinge. They did mention PB or Kroil isn't very effective.

I've never had to do mine, and don't think I will have to, but put that away in the back of my mind.

My next goodie is getting a head stud out of the block, that's broken almost an 1/8" below the surface. Going to try the weld technique, figure I'll build up the stud to the height of the top, then the washer/nut trick. Of course, I'm going to ask my machinist first, when I take the block in for tanking and magnafluxing. He might have a trick or two up his sleeve, as well...

R

 

Have you thought about drilling out the center of the bolt and using an easyout bolt extractor?