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DO NOT USE A EASYOUT!!! The last thing you want to do is have to try to get a broken easyout out of a block. You would be better off starting with a small drill and working yourself up to the proper drill to retap the hole. I would go after it with a torch before I would try an easyout. I have had easyouts break off, not a fun job. I have successfully cut out a broken manifold bolt from a head on a Pontiac while it still was in the car. I wouldn't recomment the torch technique unless you know what you are doing (at the time I did it I was 20 years old and didn't have a lot of sense but a lot of nerve) but I would never try the easy out. I have read a lot of guys using the welding technique, that's seems like the best to start with.
DO NOT USE A EASYOUT!!! The last thing you want to do is have to try to get a broken easyout out of a block.
The thought of an easy-out never crossed my mind - I, too, have been faced with that in the past. Easy-outs are okay, if there's a secondary reason for a broken bolt or stud, such as being struck from the side, or possibly from over-tightening, so that the bolt is not "stuck" but just tight, but never from breakage caused by corrosion, rust, old-age, etc. It's virtually impossible to get the bolt out, after an easy-out has broken off in it. If the 3/8" bolt broke, surely the 1/4" easy-out isn't going to be stronger, in fact, usually a lot more brittle.
I've drilled many, but where I can make sure of the perfect alignment in a drill press. I can't do that with the block, although the machine shop might be able to. And I know quite a few on the forums have had great luck with the welding. As someone suggested, the heat of welding actually will aid in removing the bolt. I've just never had one break off quite so deep into the block. Usually they are very close to flush. But, welding on the stud should be relatively easy, as the block being cast will keep the weld contained to the stud, and I should be able to build it up to flush, before welding the washer/nut to it.
I've been using Kroil, as opposed to PB - I like it a LOT better!
I've never personally had the chance to try the welding method, not that I want one either! When I did the manifold stud in the Pontiac I was working outside, in a gravel driveway and didn't have access to a wire welder, I hadn't even heard of that method yet. It's nice to know one addition method if the need ever arises though.
I've never personally had the chance to try the welding method, not that I want one either! When I did the manifold stud in the Pontiac I was working outside, in a gravel driveway and didn't have access to a wire welder, I hadn't even heard of that method yet. It's nice to know one addition method if the need ever arises though.
Here's another alternative - didn't mean to hijack the thread, but seems pertinent...
Left hinges in my ‘49 and imagined I’d remove them later, if needed. HAHAHA! Truck painted, doors installed, passenger hinge pin NOT gonna budge. Cannot heat red (painted) but warmed, lubed, beaten severely with every tool at my disposal including air hammer ( not advised per previous post). Finally drilled out hard rivets on door side then replaced new hinge with elevator bolts.
On a side note: I had to grind both upper hinges to fit mirrors (??!!). Broke one new arm discovering this. New hinge Did not know elevator bolts existed. Worked swell.
What is an elevator bolt? Originally designed for attaching elevator buckets to conveyor belts, elevator bolts are similar to carriage bolts, except the head is thin and flat. Elevator Bolts have a square neck that resists turning when the nut is tightened or removed.
