Engine Pull "how to"?
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2007
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Engine Pull "how to"?
Hey all,
I'm new and am looking for a "how to" on pulling the 4 banger out of my father in-laws ranger.... I'm just doing a straight replacemnet with a junkyard motor.
Its a 99'.
TIA
Billy
I'm new and am looking for a "how to" on pulling the 4 banger out of my father in-laws ranger.... I'm just doing a straight replacemnet with a junkyard motor.
Its a 99'.
TIA
Billy
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Most manuals (Chilton, Haynes) have all the info on what you need to disconnect on the specific model.
Other than that, it's pretty easy. Maybe try Google for a basic guide if there's not one on here.
Just mark all the lines and electrical connectors really well and if you get stuck, post up with more specific questions.
It would be silly to write up a whole guide, in my opinion. A lot of it you can figure out on your own pretty quickly.
It's honestly not as bad as it seems.
Other than that, it's pretty easy. Maybe try Google for a basic guide if there's not one on here.
Just mark all the lines and electrical connectors really well and if you get stuck, post up with more specific questions.
It would be silly to write up a whole guide, in my opinion. A lot of it you can figure out on your own pretty quickly.
It's honestly not as bad as it seems.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 984
Likes: 8
It is smart to mark the electrical connections but the newer vehicles have unique plugs for each connection. A direct swap is pretty straight forward. Unplug everything you can find, you will need a fuel line disconnect tool, some basic hand tools and of course something to lift the engine out. A transmission jack is helpul but not required a floor jack will work too. Pull the starter so it doesn't get damaged. If it is an auto you will have to unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel; don't take the converter out. You might have to swap a few sensors and such to the junkyard engine. Make it look like the one that was in there and install in the reverse procedure. Really it isn't bad. On some jobs like pan gaskets and such I prefer to pull the engine. I change about 5-6 engines a year for people.
Matt
Matt
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 174
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From: Raleigh, NC
It's true about the electrical connectors. It's almost impossible to mis-wire a modern engine.
I like to label them with their approximate location, though "by throttle body", "left bank"... things like that. It just makes finding the mating half of the connector a lot faster.
And vacuum lines are another thing that will save you a TON of time if you label them well. You CAN figure it all out from scratch, but it'll take you ten times as long (if not more) to get it all back together correctly.
I like to label them with their approximate location, though "by throttle body", "left bank"... things like that. It just makes finding the mating half of the connector a lot faster.
And vacuum lines are another thing that will save you a TON of time if you label them well. You CAN figure it all out from scratch, but it'll take you ten times as long (if not more) to get it all back together correctly.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Yeah, sometimes it's on the radiator support, sometimes on the valve cover. It's usually hard to understand, though.
It's not too bad, though. If you just look at it long enough, it should make sense where everything goes.
Good luck!
It's not too bad, though. If you just look at it long enough, it should make sense where everything goes.
Good luck!
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 2
From: North Reading Mass
I use to get out the old Polaroid and take pictures of each side before I pulled out the engine. Digital works even better. Use baggies for small parts and fasteners with tag inside for ID.
regards
rikard
regards
rikard
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