Can anyone answer my starter problem?
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Can anyone answer my starter problem?
1990 Ford F250 reoccuring symptoms.
turn key to start, no click..no nothing.
try again..turn key to start..starter relay clicks..but doesn't turn over.
turn key to start..starter relay clicks..turns over then starter stops..nothing
turn key to start..starter relay clicks..starter stays engaged and starts..
sometimes it starts right up..sometimes the above symptoms occur..I don't like guessing if it is going to start or not when key is inserted.
Can anybody tell me the procedure to troubleshoot this problem?
thank you for your input.
jon
turn key to start, no click..no nothing.
try again..turn key to start..starter relay clicks..but doesn't turn over.
turn key to start..starter relay clicks..turns over then starter stops..nothing
turn key to start..starter relay clicks..starter stays engaged and starts..
sometimes it starts right up..sometimes the above symptoms occur..I don't like guessing if it is going to start or not when key is inserted.
Can anybody tell me the procedure to troubleshoot this problem?
thank you for your input.
jon
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,897
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From: Northeastern Pa - USA
when you turn the key to ON, does it show on the guages that there is power ?
is the main problem the fact that the starter does not engage when you turn the key to crank or is the problem no power ?
if it is the problem with no cranking of the starter, you could start looking at the switch on the bottom of the steering column . My truck had a problem and it was that switch. There is also a rod coming down from the key to this switch that gets goofy and wont let the starter switch work properly. You could also be having a problem with wiring to the starter or the starter itself. Start easy and cheap.
there's my nickel.
is the main problem the fact that the starter does not engage when you turn the key to crank or is the problem no power ?
if it is the problem with no cranking of the starter, you could start looking at the switch on the bottom of the steering column . My truck had a problem and it was that switch. There is also a rod coming down from the key to this switch that gets goofy and wont let the starter switch work properly. You could also be having a problem with wiring to the starter or the starter itself. Start easy and cheap.
there's my nickel.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 5,552
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
the starter circuit uses the switch on the column to engage the starter relay on the fender, to engage the starter solenoid on the starter.
your problem could be either
A: bad positive battery cables.
B: bad grounds.
C: bad starter relay.
D: bad solenoid.
E: bad wire connection at the starter solenoid.
my guess is E
your problem could be either
A: bad positive battery cables.
B: bad grounds.
C: bad starter relay.
D: bad solenoid.
E: bad wire connection at the starter solenoid.
my guess is E
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Originally Posted by bilder12
when you turn the key to ON, does it show on the guages that there is power ?
is the main problem the fact that the starter does not engage when you turn the key to crank or is the problem no power ?
if it is the problem with no cranking of the starter, you could start looking at the switch on the bottom of the steering column . My truck had a problem and it was that switch. There is also a rod coming down from the key to this switch that gets goofy and wont let the starter switch work properly. You could also be having a problem with wiring to the starter or the starter itself. Start easy and cheap.
there's my nickel.
is the main problem the fact that the starter does not engage when you turn the key to crank or is the problem no power ?
if it is the problem with no cranking of the starter, you could start looking at the switch on the bottom of the steering column . My truck had a problem and it was that switch. There is also a rod coming down from the key to this switch that gets goofy and wont let the starter switch work properly. You could also be having a problem with wiring to the starter or the starter itself. Start easy and cheap.
there's my nickel.
will look into this..
jon
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
the starter circuit uses the switch on the column to engage the starter relay on the fender, to engage the starter solenoid on the starter.
your problem could be either
A: bad positive battery cables.
B: bad grounds.
C: bad starter relay.
D: bad solenoid.
E: bad wire connection at the starter solenoid.
my guess is E
your problem could be either
A: bad positive battery cables.
B: bad grounds.
C: bad starter relay.
D: bad solenoid.
E: bad wire connection at the starter solenoid.
my guess is E
this gives me something to start with.
thanks for advice, i will go get started.
jon
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
Pm me an email addy or click on my name and email me and I will send ASAP. Ask for: 90 starter schematic
Last edited by PLC7.3; Oct 12, 2007 at 07:47 AM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Look at the battery cable on both sides of the passenger side positive battery terminal.
If the cable insulation looks like it has been hot, or if the diameter of the cable where it enters the terminal is larger than it is a couple inches away I would suspect the positive battery cable.
You could also remove both negative cables and then take a resistance reading on the cable on both sides of the clamp.
After you get the first reading, wiggle the cable around while taking a second reading on both sides of the clamp.
More than once I have seen corrosion inside the terminal where it can not be seen.
I went through this several years ago on my 86.
Started at my house like a champ.
Drove a little less than a mile to a friends house, acted like a dead battery and just clicked.
Finally got it started using jumper cables.
When I got home I took a cut off wheel to the clamp and cut it open.
It was so bad, I don't see how it had started at all for a long time.
If the cable insulation looks like it has been hot, or if the diameter of the cable where it enters the terminal is larger than it is a couple inches away I would suspect the positive battery cable.
You could also remove both negative cables and then take a resistance reading on the cable on both sides of the clamp.
After you get the first reading, wiggle the cable around while taking a second reading on both sides of the clamp.
More than once I have seen corrosion inside the terminal where it can not be seen.
I went through this several years ago on my 86.
Started at my house like a champ.
Drove a little less than a mile to a friends house, acted like a dead battery and just clicked.
Finally got it started using jumper cables.
When I got home I took a cut off wheel to the clamp and cut it open.
It was so bad, I don't see how it had started at all for a long time.
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Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
Look at the battery cable on both sides of the passenger side positive battery terminal.
If the cable insulation looks like it has been hot, or if the diameter of the cable where it enters the terminal is larger than it is a couple inches away I would suspect the positive battery cable.
You could also remove both negative cables and then take a resistance reading on the cable on both sides of the clamp.
After you get the first reading, wiggle the cable around while taking a second reading on both sides of the clamp.
More than once I have seen corrosion inside the terminal where it can not be seen.
I went through this several years ago on my 86.
Started at my house like a champ.
Drove a little less than a mile to a friends house, acted like a dead battery and just clicked.
Finally got it started using jumper cables.
When I got home I took a cut off wheel to the clamp and cut it open.
It was so bad, I don't see how it had started at all for a long time.
If the cable insulation looks like it has been hot, or if the diameter of the cable where it enters the terminal is larger than it is a couple inches away I would suspect the positive battery cable.
You could also remove both negative cables and then take a resistance reading on the cable on both sides of the clamp.
After you get the first reading, wiggle the cable around while taking a second reading on both sides of the clamp.
More than once I have seen corrosion inside the terminal where it can not be seen.
I went through this several years ago on my 86.
Started at my house like a champ.
Drove a little less than a mile to a friends house, acted like a dead battery and just clicked.
Finally got it started using jumper cables.
When I got home I took a cut off wheel to the clamp and cut it open.
It was so bad, I don't see how it had started at all for a long time.
i will look asap for signs of cable problems..
yall are a lot of help.
jon
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