Boost gauge hook up?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
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From: Middle Tennessee
I was going to post about the hot side tap Kris but still have not heard from you on any results. If I were to do that I might just go with the MAP tap and keep the gauge on the AIH port to see what is really going into the cylinders.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,730
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From: SE Wisco
Has anyone done the _____ mod yet? Tapping the hot and cold side and putting a valve in line so you can switch from hot to cold side on your gauge? Who recommended that F250, Strokin? idk
Scott
Scott
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Originally Posted by countrycar
I'm with Joe on this. The AIH delete/Boost tie in, is the way to go. I think it's only like 20 bucks or so. I just can't find it. I can't recall which vendor sells it or I'd link it too yah. Joe do you recall the vendor?? Country
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...PROD&ProdID=48
http://www.itpdiesel.com/store.php?c...on=show_detail
Joe
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 229
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From: Rockmart GA N.W. GA
Guys I really do appreciate the help on this. My truck is all aprt now since my WW came in wednesday i started on it this evening and now all i have to do in re-install my turbo and put it all back together, i also got my EGT gauge and will also be installing it. Any preferances on the location of the tap for the pyro?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
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From: Middle Tennessee
I put mine in the up pipe. Pic in a minute. About 2 years ago, still doing just fine and easy tap. Blow it and just clamp the hole and try again.
Last edited by Tenn01PSD350; Sep 20, 2007 at 09:31 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
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From: 21791
Nope, in the picture Tenn01 posted, just drill your hole there, no tapping required. Be extra careful with that ceramic washer. Looking at it wrong will break it.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Nope, but you don't have to tap yours. Just drill & wrap the clamp around the up-pipe or manifold. The reason some of us drill the up-pipe is because the manifold has cracked on occasion. I just didn't want to be one of the "occasional" ones that it happened to. Here's what mine looks like:
It is easier to drill up from underneath, too. Some folks go in from the top, but it's a much easier job from the bottom. Just be sure to use a nice sharp bit and wear goggles...
Joe
It is easier to drill up from underneath, too. Some folks go in from the top, but it's a much easier job from the bottom. Just be sure to use a nice sharp bit and wear goggles...
Joe
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Middle Tennessee
What Joe said. Up pipe is cheaper and easier to replace than the manifold. I would have simply clamped a botch, tach welded it and moved up the up pipe. Since you wouldn't be tapping, a crack incident chance is much reduced, however rare it is in the first place, but you never want to be one of the 1 percenters.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: northern Michigan
As long as you have the turbo off, the ideal area would be where you are reading the exhaust off of both manifolds, so I would drill and tap the housing at the turbo exhaust inlet as long as you have it off and it is accessable.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Rockmart GA N.W. GA
Originally Posted by Izzy351
Nope, but you don't have to tap yours. Just drill & wrap the clamp around the up-pipe or manifold. The reason some of us drill the up-pipe is because the manifold has cracked on occasion. I just didn't want to be one of the "occasional" ones that it happened to. Here's what mine looks like:
It is easier to drill up from underneath, too. Some folks go in from the top, but it's a much easier job from the bottom. Just be sure to use a nice sharp bit and wear goggles...
Joe
It is easier to drill up from underneath, too. Some folks go in from the top, but it's a much easier job from the bottom. Just be sure to use a nice sharp bit and wear goggles...
Joe
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