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That sounds about right for a dealership. Make sure they change the transmission filter also.
The only components on the FX4 (vs. an XLT) are skid plates and Rancho "branded" shocks.
Thanks redford. I'm always skeptical about pricing. Thishas gernally been a good dealer for me. So, no bother in servicing the differentials you think? My towing has been very limited.
It's not horrible, but isn't a great price either. I would see how much they would want for just the trans flush, as the other items you could do yourself and save a lot of money I bet ($50 for oil change, $50 for fuel filters, $20 for slip yoke, so a rough estimate of $120 to do them yourself).
It's not horrible, but isn't a great price either. I would see how much they would want for just the trans flush, as the other items you could do yourself and save a lot of money I bet ($50 for oil change, $50 for fuel filters, $20 for slip yoke, so a rough estimate of $120 to do them yourself).
Yea Beerstalker, I know.
The whole idea of removing the driveshaft has me nervous.
Since Amsoil seemed popular with quit a few FTE members, I've been looking locally for some stock but have had no luck. So I figured I'd get the dealers blue light special. Question. I read some docs that say to loosen the oil filter cap so the valve would open to allow the oil in the filter to drain to the crankcase. How are we supposed to prime the oil filter after this point? I mean, what ever I put in the housing will just go to the crankcase right?What about this o-ring that needs to be replaced too?
Fuel filters, I've also been reading the 60L_Bible. Good stuff, but I'm finding it hard to believe that it is as simple as opening the housing and replacing the element.
Trust me, I am all for saving money. Heck, I could have my gauges on with what I'd might save.
What really sucks is, I've rebuilt a HO ZZ4 chevy motor before. I was scared then too but that was a paid for vehicle. Really good experience though.
It's not that bad FD. Go down to the 6.0 forum and then look in the Tech Folder pinned to the top of the forum thread listing. You'll find very good instructions on how to change your oil/filters and fuel filters. It's very simple. Just take your time and you'll do fine. The instructions are all you need.
Like Powerstroke said, check ou tthe instructions in the 6.0L tech folder. It is really easy to change the oil and fuel filters. I believe if you cycle the key a few times after changing them it will prime the systems. I think that the first start up after an oil change tends to turn over a bit longer in order to get oil into the high pressure oil circuit to fire the injectors, so don't be suprised if that happens. It should only be a few extra seconds though, if it takes more than about 15 seconds to start something is wrong (most likely one of the filters isn't sealed correctly).
If you really are leary of the slip yoke work, then have them do it too. I just think that the dealers tend to charge way too much for some stuff. Oil and fuel filter changes being one of them.
Get the oil and oil filter at your local auto parts store. Oil needs to be API CI4+ or CJ4 rated. Oil filters need to be Fram, or Motorcraft (or any other reboxed Racor filter, Fram and Motorcraft are the two most popular and easy to find).
Thanks for the info guys. I think I can tackle the slip yoke job now. What lube is recommended though?
I'm going to have the Ford dealer do a full service on the tranny.
As far as the fuel filters go, the 6.0 bible shows the secondary filter (on top of the motor) only. I do not initially see any reference to the primary fuel filter. Where is this one located? Also, do I need to purge any pressure in the lines while servicing?
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