Originally Posted by LvTitan

and to a former poster : why would brake clean damage the turbo bearings ? they are a simple bearing, like a conrod, i fail to see where the damage could be from using brakleen on them ...

Originally Posted by vloney

It is serviceable to an extent. Will it save someone a lot of money if they can't afford a new turbo? Definately. I understand the thinking of someone that sells them, more money can be made by installing a different unit, then getting the vehicle out of the bay for the next one. Oh, in case you haven't noticed, "you Ford owners" fits me as well as "you Ford techs". Ford has a directive that if its scaled with rust, you aren't supposed to clean it. According to you, I should never try to clean one. I have cleaned several that were rusted severely, for customers that had no warranty and money issues. Was that wrong? On another post, you doubt that head gaskets can be replaced without lifting the cab, yes, they most certainly can. It isn't easy, Ford as a matter of fact has a video that step by step shows how. The environment can be a factor in turbo longevity simply because there is air that makes it into the exhaust stream (ever hear of humidity?). Talk to Ford hotline engineers, More turbo issues are in areas that have weather issues and fuel quality issues. How else can you explain why some areas have numerous 6.0 issues, while some have none. Here, the 6.0 is a very reliable engine.

Originally Posted by dave at BD Power

Its not about getting the truck out the door fast, its about doing the job right the first time to prevent the truck coming back or being stuck halfway between BC and Alaska as alot of our snowbirds travel. If you cleaned a rusty turbo and it is still working, good for you, you saved someone some money. You say the head gasket can be changed with out lifting the cab "but it is not easy" great!

So to recap what you are saying... these 50K trucks that the head gaskets are "not easy to replace" and the turbo needs to be driven in dry climates with clean fuel while periodicaly being serviced, is this correct;
other than that the 6.0L is a reliable motor?

Are we still talking about diesel motors that are relied on day in and day out by commercial and personaly users to get around ALL of north America in any condition from Arizona to Alaska? Cause I have dealers in all of these areas that see the same issues.

At leasxt we argee on one thing, "some 6.0L's have issues"

Have I ever heard of humidity.... LMAO, I live in BC

Originally Posted by Super08

glm racers
I like your idea about putting the studs in the head loose and then sit the heads in place. You could put the nuts on the tops of the studs to stop them from falling through while putting the heads in place. Once in place they could then thread the studs in to the block before putting on the nuts on for the final time and torquing them down.

vloney does this sound possible to you being a tech and being familiar with what would and wouldn't work?

Originally Posted by LvTitan

you're free to do whatever you want, it's a free country. but you have been giving dave a hard time from the start.
the simple fact of the matter is: BD is a high quality shop putting out high quality parts and has great customer service.

Originally Posted by npccpartsman

There is a method for putting in headSTUDS with the motor in the truck, but it's a real pain in the butt. Those doggone heads are HEAVY to start with and putting them in with the studs hanging out just adds to the aggravation. It takes less time to lift the cab than pull the motor (if you have the equipment--we didn't) and IMHO you get a better quality job and better quality torque if you can get to it easily. The torque sequence and procedure with BOLTS is a major pain sitting out in the open. I wouldn't want to do it with the motor in the truck, but it can be done.