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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 11:55 AM
  #1  
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Flash OEM

Sorry have used the search without coming up with what I am looking for so:

2004 6.0 190K.
Don't know if it has ever been flashed, but understand that there is a flash available.

What are the pros of the flash

What are the cons of the flash

understand that once flashed you cannot go back. What does the flash actually change.

I have some stiction issues and it was suggested to me that along with fuel treatment I might try the flash before replacing injectors. My MPG is horrible at 10.5 I appreciate that i am probably going to have to bite the bullet and change some/all injectors but should i go ahead and do the flash, 1. to see if it will improve the current situation and 2. will the flash itself further improve performance after if I go ahead and replace injectors.

Assuming that the flash was designed to improve performance generally but thought I had read some place that it was not a complete panacea

Any info much appreciated.


Mark
 
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 12:21 PM
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I think you'd be better off to contact PHP about a PCM rollback and a FICM flash rather than going with the factory flashes.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 12:26 PM
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Your first step is to see exactly what your engine is doing. If you don't already have something like the Scan Gauge II, you should purchase one. They are available in several places... Auto Zone, Amazon.com, and others. Average price is about 150.00. You will have to program in some stuff in the XGauge side of the Scan Gauge... instructions come with it and there are also people here that have all codes you would need. Search in this Forum on "SCAN GAUGE".

Once you have this ( or if you already do)... you need to post if you have any codes or pending codes stored in the trucks computer and then people here can start giving you some pretty serious advice! Or even ask for more info to run down your problem (s).
 
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by BPofMD
Your first step is to see exactly what your engine is doing. If you don't already have something like the Scan Gauge II, you should purchase one. They are available in several places... Auto Zone, Amazon.com, and others. Average price is about 150.00. You will have to program in some stuff in the XGauge side of the Scan Gauge... instructions come with it and there are also people here that have all codes you would need. Search in this Forum on "SCAN GAUGE".

Once you have this ( or if you already do)... you need to post if you have any codes or pending codes stored in the trucks computer and then people here can start giving you some pretty serious advice! Or even ask for more info to run down your problem (s).

I have the Scan guage and no codes showing. Ficm running at 48V so not the problem there.

Did a buzz test when cold before engine start which shows up 2, 3 and 6 when cold, but no cylinder contribution problems when at normal operating temp.

Gets decent boost, up to 28 and VGT seems to operate but engine runs rough until warmed up and lacks power.

Just trying Stanadyne fuel treatment first, but wanted to read up on the available oem flashes before replacing injectors.


Mark
 
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
I think you'd be better off to contact PHP about a PCM rollback and a FICM flash rather than going with the factory flashes.

Who is PHP. I wasnt thinking about a PCM rollback, it is stock 2004, and FICM was re-soldered but not flashed.

Just looking to read up on what is in the factory flash update, the good and the bad


Mark
 
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mmenzies
Who is PHP. I wasnt thinking about a PCM rollback, it is stock 2004, and FICM was re-soldered but not flashed.

Just looking to read up on what is in the factory flash update, the good and the bad


Mark
Power Hungry Performance. They write the Atlas 40 tunes, etc. for the FICM's. AFA "factory flash" that could be a multitude of things that you really wouldn't know unless you had something to read it with.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 10:55 AM
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sorry to bang on on this subject, but does anyone here know what the factory flash did.
What did it change, what did it improve and what if anything did it degrade.


Mark
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 11:38 AM
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Depends on which flash you have.

Take a look here. http://www.gopowerhungry.com/_ficm.shtml
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 12:46 PM
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2004 6.0 190K

OK I think i am getting an understanding of the issue now. As I read it, the power levels were decreased by Ford by way of a flash to resolve issues of head bolts / head gaskets. So the ford flash is not a good thing if you have it. And dealership can not roll back to original configuration once flashed if you do have it.

I dont want a souped up truck that runs the risk of blowing head gaskets due to excessive power from a tune, but i would like a little more than what I have now. Dont know if the existing lack of power comes from poor injectors or other issues (buzz test shows up 2, 3, and 6, when cold but no codes or cylinder contribution issues when at normal operating temp)

To my mind a stock configuration should be satisfactory, but are the Power hungry settings totally suitable for a stock head bolt vehicle.

Where can you read what flash version you currently have (original or ford updated), and can this be done with a Scangauge




Mark
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 01:24 PM
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You would have to talk to FORD to find out what flashes did what. Unless you have a high end scan tool or an actual reprogrammer you will not be able to tell what flash you now have or be able to do a flash of your own should you be able to get a flash.

When flashing it is best not to use a blue tooth or wireless adapter too much risk of a corrupted flash. Straight cable connection is best.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mmenzies
2004 6.0 190K

OK I think i am getting an understanding of the issue now. As I read it, the power levels were decreased by Ford by way of a flash to resolve issues of head bolts / head gaskets. So the ford flash is not a good thing if you have it. And dealership can not roll back to original configuration once flashed if you do have it.

I dont want a souped up truck that runs the risk of blowing head gaskets due to excessive power from a tune, but i would like a little more than what I have now. Dont know if the existing lack of power comes from poor injectors or other issues (buzz test shows up 2, 3, and 6, when cold but no codes or cylinder contribution issues when at normal operating temp)

To my mind a stock configuration should be satisfactory, but are the Power hungry settings totally suitable for a stock head bolt vehicle.

Where can you read what flash version you currently have (original or ford updated), and can this be done with a Scangauge




Mark
You can read the strategy on an Insight monitor or an SCT tuner, not sure if the Scanguage will read it. The rollback adds no horsepower, only improves running quality, Bill can add power if you want it. I did the Atlas 40 FICM tune with a rollback and 25 hp tow tune per Bill's recommendation with stock bolts. MPG improved to 20 hwy from 16.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jsm180
You can read the strategy on an Insight monitor or an SCT tuner, not sure if the Scanguage will read it. The rollback adds no horsepower, only improves running quality, Bill can add power if you want it. I did the Atlas 40 FICM tune with a rollback and 25 hp tow tune per Bill's recommendation with stock bolts. MPG improved to 20 hwy from 16.

I am currently getting a miserable 10.4 MPG. Your 16 to 20MPG is a 25pct increase which is substantial.

Mark
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 04:20 PM
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can't believe nobody's told you yet that stiction is not a fuel problem but an oil problem. Switch to a synthetic 5w40 and watch it for a day or two, if it still doesn't start cold properly then add the correct dose of Rev-X.

You can't decide if you have bad injectors until you do this.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Idahoser
can't believe nobody's told you yet that stiction is not a fuel problem but an oil problem. Switch to a synthetic 5w40 and watch it for a day or two, if it still doesn't start cold properly then add the correct dose of Rev-X.

You can't decide if you have bad injectors until you do this.
Have been using rotella T6 for some time. Those injectors are getting the best lubrication available



Mark
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mmenzies
I am currently getting a miserable 10.4 MPG. Your 16 to 20MPG is a 25pct increase which is substantial.

Mark
I was getting 12-16 mpg stock with T6 and Archoil 9100.
 
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