Turbo Replacement
Evidently your customers are requesting studs, which are superior than bolts. This will require the removal of the cab to have sufficient clearance to install the studs and then the heads, which will void the 5/100 warranty depending on the dealers judgement.
Have you tried installing studs by placing them in the heads while installing the heads/studs as one assembly??
A lot of the failures associated with head gaskets and turbos are chip related possibly as much as 60-70%. Its obvious the 6.0L does not take to mods that well and the Diesel Performance market is huge right now thus more failures. Like stated before most non chipped responsible drivers are not seeing problems but there are more than average of those problems trucks that Ford has even offered to buy back.
With that being said I have seen bone stock 6.0L owners lives financially altered with repair claims denied by Ford or out of warranty situations and that's what bothers me!
I don't care what stats are out there I see and hear this on a 9 hour day everyday as you all do your occupations and it is clear that the 6.0L Ford has Turbo and Head Gasket issues. As others diesels have had their share of issues i.e. early Duramax injectors, early dodge transmissions and lift pumps, right up to the fire breathing dragon 6.4L Ford.
Sorry if I have been offending anyone, that is not my intention, I am very honest and like to call things as I view them!
And I have read that the Garret design VGT has been in operations long before the 6.0 was introduced.
We can debate the "my design is beter than yours" all you want, but let's stay on track and keep it real by providing facts with data and not suppositions.
the new duramax as well as numerous other manufacturers still using this design. some are a bit different with the design, but using the same basic concept.
the new duramax as well as numerous other manufacturers still using this design. some are a bit different with the design, but using the same basic concept.
Evidently your customers are requesting studs, which are superior than bolts. This will require the removal of the cab to have sufficient clearance to install the studs and then the heads, which will void the 5/100 warranty depending on the dealers judgement.
Have you tried installing studs by placing them in the heads while installing the heads/studs as one assembly??
but head studs are designed to be threaded into the block, and then use a nut to secure the head. you cannot instal them onto the head first.
also, yes this job can be done w/out lifting cab or pulling motor, but you have to remove a lot of stuff that's in the way, and it ends up taking longer actually.
but head studs are designed to be threaded into the block, and then use a nut to secure the head. you cannot instal them onto the head first.
also, yes this job can be done w/out lifting cab or pulling motor, but you have to remove a lot of stuff that's in the way, and it ends up taking longer actually.
If so, then you would not have the clearence issue, and then you could thread the studs to the block by using a jam nut to tighten the studs to the block through the heads. If this can be done it would be a DIY and not an expensive labor intense dealer/aftermarket only operation.
As far as the former comment, I have a lot of time on my hands lately since my job was handed over to a foriegn country, and sorry but I always like a good challenge when I see one, especially after twenty three years in R&D and Management it's hard not to resist.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
If so, then you would not have the clearence issue, and then you could thread the studs to the block by using a jam nut to tighten the studs to the block through the heads. If this can be done it would be a DIY and not an expensive labor intense dealer/aftermarket only operation.
As far as the former comment, I have a lot of time on my hands lately since my job was handed over to a foriegn country, and sorry but I always like a good challenge when I see one, especially after twenty three years in R&D and Management it's hard not to resist.
I am Off till Tuesday, so its miller time, have a great weekend all!!!
As for turbo replacment I don't even want to bother cleaning it because if something is shot inside it takes forever to get parts. I don't have time for the truck to sit. Buy a reman turbo put it on done deal.
I live in rural B.C. where there is no busses no taxi cabs nothing if you don't have a vehical your not going anywhere. To walk to the grocery store would take 1 hour or more. To walk to the Ford dealer and back would take all day.
If I need something from the Ford dealer and they don't have it which they usually don't I have to order it. For most things if I order it before 4pm I they will have it 1pm the next day. The closest International dealer is Vancouver trying to get parts from them isn't easy either.
My truck is pretty much stock except for a AFE intake which I didn't install and the exhaust brake I didn't install either. The exhaust brake is usefull the AFE intake I don't know if its anygood or not. When I pulled it out to clean the filter it looks like a K&N filter it stops the big chunks but the rest of it flows into the engine.
My 03 F-450 weighs 9100lbs empty so I'am not adding any tuners or other stuff to it to add power. The truck has enough power for what I need. If I climb a 10% grade at 50km/h (31mph) with a loaded truck big deal. Hold the rpms at 2000 untill you get to the top.
Older trucks in B.C. especially on the West Coast are worn out junk. The salt air rusts vehicals the roads shake them apart. I searched for almost a year trying to find a F-450 with a 7.3 I gave up. I didn't want a truck with 200,000 plus kilometers on it. I was trying to replace a truck with 200,000kms that was worn out. I searched all the Alberta classifieds I couldn't find many pre 2003s with 7.3 power.
I wanted a F-450 for its braking power because they have 19.5 wheels and brakes designed to stop a 15,000lb truck. My 95 F-450 had 16 inch wheels the truck could carry a load but trying to stop was next to impossible because the brakes are not big enough.
I will keep driving the truck because I don't have time on this set of days off to do anything.
I won't change brands I like Ford so I'am sticking with Ford.
As for turbo replacment I don't even want to bother cleaning it because if something is shot inside it takes forever to get parts. I don't have time for the truck to sit. Buy a reman turbo put it on done deal.
I live in rural B.C. where there is no busses no taxi cabs nothing if you don't have a vehical your not going anywhere. To walk to the grocery store would take 1 hour or more. To walk to the Ford dealer and back would take all day.
If I need something from the Ford dealer and they don't have it which they usually don't I have to order it. For most things if I order it before 4pm I they will have it 1pm the next day. The closest International dealer is Vancouver trying to get parts from them isn't easy either.
My truck is pretty much stock except for a AFE intake which I didn't install and the exhaust brake I didn't install either. The exhaust brake is usefull the AFE intake I don't know if its anygood or not. When I pulled it out to clean the filter it looks like a K&N filter it stops the big chunks but the rest of it flows into the engine.
My 03 F-450 weighs 9100lbs empty so I'am not adding any tuners or other stuff to it to add power. The truck has enough power for what I need. If I climb a 10% grade at 50km/h (31mph) with a loaded truck big deal. Hold the rpms at 2000 untill you get to the top.
Older trucks in B.C. especially on the West Coast are worn out junk. The salt air rusts vehicals the roads shake them apart. I searched for almost a year trying to find a F-450 with a 7.3 I gave up. I didn't want a truck with 200,000 plus kilometers on it. I was trying to replace a truck with 200,000kms that was worn out. I searched all the Alberta classifieds I couldn't find many pre 2003s with 7.3 power.
I wanted a F-450 for its braking power because they have 19.5 wheels and brakes designed to stop a 15,000lb truck. My 95 F-450 had 16 inch wheels the truck could carry a load but trying to stop was next to impossible because the brakes are not big enough.
I will keep driving the truck because I don't have time on this set of days off to do anything.
I won't change brands I like Ford so I'am sticking with Ford.
A fellow BC man, nice to see!
Let me know it there is anything I can do for ya, especially if you are having problems getting parts or Vancouver.
If so, then you would not have the clearence issue, and then you could thread the studs to the block by using a jam nut to tighten the studs to the block through the heads. If this can be done it would be a DIY and not an expensive labor intense dealer/aftermarket only operation.
As far as the former comment, I have a lot of time on my hands lately since my job was handed over to a foriegn country, and sorry but I always like a good challenge when I see one, especially after twenty three years in R&D and Management it's hard not to resist.
i've asked matt this, and he said they still ran into head sealing problems doing it this way, he recomends removing the heads completely that way you can verify the block deck and head surface are completely smooth before wasting your time. if anyone has any luck doing this please feel free to chime in. sorry for the hijacking, i believe this thread was about turbos

and to a former poster : why would brake clean damage the turbo bearings ? they are a simple bearing, like a conrod, i fail to see where the damage could be from using brakleen on them ...
I apologize for playing the devils advocate on this topic but I am blown away by the loyalty you Ford owners have to the Ford Motor Company that is sitting on all your money they made from a commonly known poor design that is now discontinued???



