Guys can you tell me what I should be doing to get the most streetable power possible out of a 351C. I mean what heads do I need. What cam do I need. What piston size and rod length etc. I want 400HP out of this bad boy and I want it to run on unleaded fuel. Thanks

Ed

 

check out tmeyers 400 cleveland build...

Also a cleveland 4v will flow more than enough to make the power you want...but i'm not up on the particulars...sorry...but the 400 stroker is quite the motor.

edit: the 400 stroker on his site is the 434 4oo. this is a 351C stroked to 400 and well more power than you were looking for....flat torque curve as well.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...r-project.html

 

Thanks

Ed

 

Hi Guys, I'm looking at stroking an Aussie 302 Cleveland to 408. Stroker kits are to expensive down here in New Zealand so I have picked up a used 400 crank and I am using the 6" con rods out of my 302, I just gotta find some pistons to suit and it's all good with a bit of work.

thanks for a great site guys,
cheers Ian

 

I don't know how you could get a 400 crank into that block ? Main journals are bigger on the 400 crank, it might hit the cam, block ? I'm not familiar with Aussie blocks though.

 

Thanks for your thoughts,
But the info I have states that the 1972/74 400M has a shaft diameter of 2.3103 to 2.31111 which is the same as the 351C. As for Cam clearance apparantly it's the same with all 335 series engines. Now I could be wrong but as they say time will tell.
As for other clearances nothing a bit of machining cant fix eh.

If it really cant be done then I can always sell the crank to the windsor guys down here who use them to build 426s.

But I will keep you posted.

Cheers

 

All 351M/400 mains are 3" way too much to grind down.

 

hey fordication, concerning the 351c build for the goal of 400 horse. this is a very reasonable goal. clevelands are typically a higher rpm motor, having said that prep the block dont cut corners.from experience id say stay away from the 4v heads in this case. first off, clevelands dont like to do anthing impressive till about 3000 rpms so if your going to put it in a heavy car put a 2500-3000 rpm stahl in it(or manual). if your budget will allow shoot for screw in studs and guide plates and roller rockers (i use harland sharp) get some flat top slugs two barrel heads prefrebly aussie. the aftermarket has really stepped up to cleveland based heads in the last few years, very exciting. however stock 2bbl heads will get you 400 horse if you do your homework. for the steet i wouldnt go over 280-290 advertised duration. if fact give "cam research" a call they can custom grind a cam for your application that will have you grinning from ear to ear.id also recommend the oil restrictor kit for the block be installed ,good for the occasional missed shift or over rev. these engines do cost a little more then a 302 to build but theres nothin more gratifiying then saying "i run a cleveland". i would recommend a nice dual plane intake and about a 650-750cfm carb, with the biggest headers you can get your hands on. if your in the search for heads DO NOT BUY HEADS FROM AN "M" (351/400) motor they are not the same just look in the exhaust port of a 2bbl head and a m head and youll see the problem. if you are iterested i can give you way more tips too. oh yaeh i run a 408 4v headed m block that dynoed out over 600hp. these things are just cool! good luck

 

big. I just purchased a 72 mustang with a 351C 2V. The care weighs in at 3550lbs and I want to rebuild the motor on a completely stock car in new condition. I want 400 HO and I have already found a source for a transmission upgrade to an aod that can handle 550 HP. I am trying to do this on the cheap because I am in the middle of building my 54 ford F-100 with a bored and stroked 292 big valve head engine. I needed a car because my work has caused me to do more traveling locally lately and I hate flying anymore and I got the car cheap. I will post pics next week when I pic it up in CO. I am south of Houston. I am having dreams about this car. Once my truck is done I am going to install a EFI on the 351 and I am thinking about doing it to my truck as well. Man it feels good not having a car payment so that you can afford to spend money on cool stuff.

Ed

 

i keep referring to the roller rockers cuz the stock rockers will bottom out in the slot after you install the camshaft you need to get you that 400 horse.ford racing parts offers a kit to convert over to screw in studs they are only 5/16" but it will help stabalize your valve train, and will allow you to run a set of roller rockers with guide plates. well if you are not able to dump a bunch of money consider building a tough motor that you can do upgrades to as you go. start with replacing the stock triple groove valves and locks with some upgraded single grove style units. this may be the single most important thing you do. do you have a budget limit to help me help you? if you like e-mail me and i can give you all the specifics. strokedv8@yahoo.com

 

My actual budget will vary from month to month. As I said I am also building my 54 ford truck after a 2 year delay while I was in Iraq. I have allot of work to do but now that I have my work shed finished and I can blast my metal myself I will be working a bit on the mustang and on the truck at the same time. My cup runneth over. As you said though I think I will start with a standard rebuild of the 351 and I will use the parts you or others recommend I use to get the HP I want. You say I should keep the 2V heads? Why not convert to the aluminum 4V heads when I rebuild? I would have thought those would provide more power. Ed

 

Yes I will be using roller rockers and I will think about going to hydraulic lifters if it does not already have them. I want the lighter heads with the big valves and I was a bit more radical cam. Of course the pistons will be .30 over after the bore and of the kind that are lighter and stronger yet makes more compression. I will think about a slight stroke to get it there since I love the sound of a stroked engine. If the car is not alrady HEI it will be shortly after I purchase it. Anyways I will be dropping some steady change into the mustang to keep it nice and to improve it as a daily driver. Ed

 

Reading your post on 351c builds. What kind of motor 351c or 400m would u recommend in a 77 f150 extra cab class 8 race truck build? Truck weights in over 5k pounds so need as much power as possible on a budget of sorts and make it last in harsh temperatures. Noticed that u used a 400m block to build, interested. Found a couple of 1970, 1972 351c motors bit not really up to speed on C blocks.
Thanks.
Rob

 

What is a class 8 race truck? If it needs high rpm bogging power then I would go 351C if it needs down low pulling power than the 400 would be the better choice. The 400 has the displacement advantage but they don't like rpms so if your engine spends a lot of time close the redline this can be a big problem.
-John

 

Class 8 is desert racing, Baja 1000 style. Truck would be flat out at times as well as slowing down for turns, etc. Guess the power range would be idle on up. 460 sounds like the best overall for cost, power and longevity.