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How free should the front wheels spin, when up on a jack . Mine will stop the second I let go of them , and seem to have alot of drag to them. The brakes where done 5000 mile ago and one had a new caliper installed.
One is a little worst it will spin around a half of a revolution after I let go. I was thinking slide pins may be sticking, I lifted the rubber boots on both of them and stuck the tubing attachment and sprayed some WD40 on the slide pins they looked clean and shiny at the very end that I could see.
One is a little worst it will spin around a half of a revolution after I let go. I was thinking slide pins may be sticking, I lifted the rubber boots on both of them and stuck the tubing attachment and sprayed some WD40 on the slide pins they looked clean and shiny at the very end that I could see.
You want high temp silicone grease on those slide pins, not WD40. They can get hot and boil off low temp stuff. I'd pull the calipers and lube the alignment tab slots on all 4 pads with the high temp brake grease, then the pins. I'd bet that takes care of any issue you may have.
Planning on pulling and cleaning and lubing, if I lube the alignment tabs wouldn't that collect dust and dirt?
Hasn't with any of my vehicles to date. What it does do is prevent rust from seizing the pads so they can't return to a relaxed position. In 10,000 miles, when you pull it apart again to re-lube, all that grease will be gone (except for the slider pins)
I found this to be a common problem on my old Bronco. I'm guessing it may be the same cause here. The flex lines. They swell internally and don't release the pressure on the pads. You can't see the problem from the outside. Disconnect the flex line from the caliper and see if the drag goes away. Good luck.
Netfly , I don't want to sound dumb, but could you clue me on the flex line
Flexible, black rubber lines that feed the caliper with brake fluid. They can get a bit of grit in them or swell and cause issues with fluid return. Not common, but definately a possibility. If you change one or both of these lines, but remember that you have to bleed to brakes at each side once you open the system.
FYI You can use a "C" clamp to puch the pistons back into the caliper a small bit once you remove the caliper to make putting it back on a little easier.
Just had the main break line running along the frame behind the fuel tank to the back brakes replaced about a month ago and at that time they flushed the brake system, the rear brakes were redone with new pads and calipers 2000 miles ago and the front was done 5000 miles ago with new pads and one new caliper, the one on the front that has the major drag is the one with the old caliper, so its probally the slides.
Biggziff explained it well. I'll just add that if you crack open the bleed screw it should relieve any pressure too. That way you wouldn't need to disconnect the flex line or bleed the system. It may not be very common, but in 20 years of owning a Bronco I changed the left side twice and the right once for this issue.
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