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I did a complete brake overhaul, I adjusted brakes to where they had a little drag then backed off to no drag. My peddle has to go almost half way down before they catch. Do I need to adjust them out some more. I have bled the brakes, could there be more air in the lines I replaced cylinders. also hand brake not makeing contact untill fully pulled. Thanks
If you are SURE the rest of the brake system is working properly (master cylinder check valve, wheel cylinders, etc.), I'd adjust them tighter. In the end, you want the adjustment as close as possible without creating a lot of heat and shoe wear when you aren't applying the brakes. In fact, one way to check your adjustment is to drive at 30 - 40 MPH at least 1/4 mile on a straight road and coast to a stop. Get out and CAREFULLY check the temperature of the drums. If they are HOT, the shoes are riding on the drums and something is amiss. If not, you can try adjusting the shoes tighter if you are still having too much pedal travel.
Once again, all of the above assumes that THE REST OF YOUR BRAKE SYSTEM IS IN GOOD WORKING ORDER!!! You can screw around with the shoe adjustment for a long time and it won't help if the check valve in the master cylinder is not working!
There were some earlier posts here about how to adjust brakes that I didn't necessarily agree with. This may be old school, but my Dad taught me many years ago how to adjust drum brakes and it has worked fine for me. Tighten the adjustment and then spin the tire with one hand. When it will only turn about 1/4 to 1/2 turn then you have them tight enough. This method will make the adjustment tighter than the methods offered earlier, but should bring your pedal back up to where it should be.
I'm with Vern. I always set them up with just a little drag. Especially on these old trucks without self-adjusting brakes. If you spin the wheel of any newer vehicle with properly functioning self-adjusting brakes, I can guarantee that there will be a slight drag. Any clearance between the shoes and the drums will translate into excessive pedal travel. Worse yet, a slight clearance will be amplified into a proportionally larger amount of pedal travel. Multipy that by four wheels and you can end up with your foot on the floor before you get any pedal.
I agree with the above posts except I have found it works better for me if I adjust the shoes out till the wheel will not turn. Then back the adjustment off till there is slight drag. If you notice, the bottom of shoe assembly "floats" inside the drum. There is a chance after the drum is put back on, that the assembly is not centered in the drum. So one shoe may give a slight drag but not the other shoe. The first time you hit the pedal, it centers the assembly and then there is too much clearance.
It's also ok to make them a little tight when new shoes are installed. Sometimes the new shoes don't make full contact with a drum that has some irregularities in the surface and they will have to "bed in" or conform to the drum surface after you start driving it a little.
Last edited by Franklin2; Feb 1, 2003 at 11:12 AM.
thanks for the info I adjusted so there is a slight drag, peddle is back where it should be. That is how I have always done it but I tried to do it the way the manual said , no drag and got the low peddle. Thanks again.
If you had good pedal when you started you are probably looking at shoe adjustment. If that doesn't solve it here is a method I have used for isolating the source of a bad pedal. (Just the problem vehicles, not something I recommend you do all the time).
1. Put a set of visegrips on each rubber brake hose. Only tight enough to pinch the line shut. If the pedal is still bad, you probably have a bad master cylinder. If the pedal is now hard proceed to next step.
2. Remove the vice grips from one line and try the pedal again. Repeat procedure until the bad pedal returns and you have probably located a wheel cylinder that needs to be bled again.
If your brake hose aren't flexible enough to withstand this, you probably need new ones anyway.
The fact that your emergency brake has to be all way out to catch is probably the clue to your problem. Sounds like the brakes need adjusting. If you had good pedal then the emergency brake cables might need adjusting, if the master cylinder was bad under pressure the brake pedal would slowly go to the floor. If the wheel cylinders are bad they will be leaking .
On vehicle without self adjusting brakes, tighten the adjustment until the wheel locks up, then back off 10 to 12 clicks on the adjuster, should be loose, slight drag ok. With new shoes should also have good emergency brake, if not adjust the cables.
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