Can I get on teh same page with you guys? I think I understand but want to make sure. Is the problem due to the restriction at the bottom of the downpipe right before it transitions into the remaining exhaust piping? If so, I'm right with you. If not, please explain.

 

Exhaust gasses are still expanding in the downpipe, so the pressure is higher there rather than near the tailpipe, where temps are much lower.

 

Gotcha. Thanks, Curtis.

 

Thanks for all the input. It's looking like I'm going to run it midship and dump it.

 

I did the ccv mod and noticed that at idle I could see smokee all the time. is this normal. i undid the mod cuase i wasnt sure thanks

 

It's normal. Go redo the mod.

 

I advise everyone with their CCV hose routed to their exhaust to make a simple CC pressure measurement. Guzzle and I have made measurements while towing, and get perfect agreement that about 1.6" H2O is the max CC pressure you should see with a proper CCV mod. I've measured two trucks routed to the exhaust and saw much higher readings than that. That angled pipe is not a Venturi, and it doesn't create a vacuum. Check here to see what you need to make a vacuum http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venturi_effect . The CC pressure will build up until it pushes its way out through the exhaust or blows some seals, but it will get out some way!

See my post #14, #18, #25, #27, #29, #30, #34, #35, #37, and #40 here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/612896-dual-ccv-mod.html?highlight=CC+pressure+gauge for more details.

 

Have mine routed through the exhaust and uh Im not experiencing the problems your speaking off Ernest. must be a east coast thing, lol.

Cowboy Steve

 

Careful guys, Gene measured mine at Smokin In The Smokies with my CCV routed in the exhaust (which was done correctly). He found that my backpressure was too high once I revved the engine to 2K (I forget the reading). This made me paranoid, so rather than take the chance I removed my CCV from the exhaust. I now vent to the atmosphere just under the engine, plus I installed a Stant oil cap which was drilled and plumbed as a second CCV vent under the engine. I can pretty much garantee I don't have to worry about too much pressure in the crank case! Every now and then I get a whiff of the CCV with the windows down, but I can live with it.

 

I'm also active on several health forums, and I've often used the following saying there to respond to those who are (in my opinion) engaging in less than optimum health habits, that they're following the philosophy of I'M NOT DEAD YET SO I MUST NOT BE DOING ANYTHING WRONG!

Well, this philosophy seems to work fairly well right up to the point of actual death. Flirting with excessive CC pressure is kind of like flirting with high blood pressure and not measuring it, and assuming everything's fine because you're not seeing any symptoms, and then all of a sudden a stroke hits. Well, since blowing out some seals on your engine won't kill you I'm not going to argue too much that you should measure what I'm confident is your excessive CC pressure, but it's not very hard to do.

 

Two questions:

1. Why just under the engine and not at the rear where you are less likely to get oily fumes?

2. Why Stant oil cap when you can drill the Ford one?

 

I can't remember your measurement either, but this is from my post # 93 here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/601503-report-from-smokin-7.html regarding my concerns on the measurements on strokin's truck which was routed like yours to the stack. " This tells me that your 30" H2O reading on the dyno was due to an extra 26" H2O or more coming back from the exhaust. Also, Tenn measures 0.5" H2O compared to your 2" to 3" H2O under similar conditions. Racor testing shows that CC pressure is increased by a X4 from idle to WOT under load. If you apply this to Tenn, he would see at most 2" H20 on the dyno. " Strokin then posted back that it wasn't 30" H2O on his dyno run, but only 24", as if that made any difference to the point I was trying to make that his reading is far too high for comfort.

This is where Guzzle gives his measurements https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/609000-towing-report-with-dp-tuner-ccv-mod-and-cc-pressure-gauge.html "Doing a recent test, empty weight, WOT, 3000RPM pulling a 3% grade at 4500 ft altitude, I could only get a max of 1.6" W.C. at the doghouse using an actual water manometer." and corrected his misplaced decimal point from a previous post "I must apoligize to everyone ernest as the decimal point on the text in my webpage was misplaced. If you look at the picture, the water manometer actually reads .5" W.C. and .75" W.C. respectfully. That would give you a max 4x of 2" to 3" W.C. at the CCV doghouse which I believe is what you experienced."

 

Since I just saw this, I'll give my thoughts in case you're interested. Strokin drilled a Ford cap trying to make my first version of a CC pressure gauge and it didn't work. I think he said the Ford cap has a big spring inside that's used to flex the cap so it makes a good seal. A longer CCV hose increases the CC pressure. Basically, the CC pressure increases in direct proportion to the length of the hose, and having bends in the hose increases CC pressure even more, as does having the hose run up hill, like up and over the rear axel.

 

Very interested, Thank you.

Guess I will chop my hose tomorrow then. Probably no difference to leave the loop where it goes up the brake booster and then down since I thought it was to make sure the oil drains back into the doghouse, right?

 

Why not just pull the CCV hose off the bung and have someone rev the engine a bit while you look at and stick your finger up near it. If the bung is acting like a venturi, it will be pulling air into the exhaust pipe. But I'll bet you a doughnut it'll be blowing exhaust out that thing (and back into the top of your engine when the hose is connected). I doubt that's a good thing...