Gene pretty much nailed your first question. I figured that a short hose with less bends and turns would be less restrictive. As far as the second question, the stock ratcheting oil cap looked like it would be a PITA to drill into. So I went to Advance Auto and they had a Stant spin-on oil cap ($6), the great thing is that it was hollow, which made drilling the hole in the top very easy.

 

Point taken. How do I measure my Crank Case pressure?

Cowboy Steve

 

Pressure gauge with the tap in the oil cap. I think Gene used a combination pressure/vacuum gauge since he wanted to see the vacuum with the stock connection.

Joe

 

This is a pic of the CC pressure fitting that Strokin made up for me and brought to Smokin. Don't try to drill a Ford cap, as you'll just ruin it! Click for full size image and this is a pic of the gauge that Strokin got for me Click for full size image for some reason the gauge started at 2" H2O instead of 0", but that worked out fine because I wanted to measure my stock CCV which goes negative, before doing my CCV mod so I could compare the two.

I later re-engineered the fitting and got a better gauge. This is the first new fitting Click for full size image and you can see the restrictor in the hose to reduce the pressure fluctuations that occur under heavy load. This is the final version of the CC fitting Click for full size image and I've now got the restrictor near the gauge. This is my new gauge setup Click for full size image the small one is for CC pressure and goes up to 10" H2O, and the large one is for air flow into the turbo and for detecting turbo surge, and here's the fitting for it Click for full size image .

This is the way I ran my special CCV hose Click for full size image straight out of the doghouse and down the firewall to minimize the distance and to eliminate unnecessary bends, the hose terminates here Click for full size image about half way past the fuel tank. The hose always has a downward slope through out its length so that any condensation drains all the way through and out the end.

 

I just did my ccv mod last weekend..it ends right at the frame rail by the front tire for now.in this part of the world it gets 30 to 40 below in the winter..I was afraid of the hose sagging with out my knowing and oil and stuff freezing in the hose and plugging up..so I got me a 1 1/4 metal electrical conduit pipe I was planning to add so that I new the line would be in a strait downward slope...I was going to end it right at the rear end..it will have a manual bend in it that will go up the fire wall so that I have about only a foot or two of rubber 3/4 " hose..do you think that would be too restrictive??? good idea?? bad idea?? every thing is sitting on the floor waiting to go in this weekend...thanks..

 

A 1-1/4" in pipe will have very little restriction compared to 3/4" rubber hose that most of us run, but won't it be MORE prone to condensation since it metal? I would think rubber would be less prone, but maybe not...

 

Good point, Izzy. The metal would, indeed, have a higher heat transfer coefficient, which would allow the vapors to condense more easily. Couple that with the lower velocity from the larger diameter, and it still might just ice up a bit anyway.

On the other hand, Alpine, perhaps you could manage to run that conduit right over or beside the exhaust pipe, say within 2-3 inches, but not touching the exhaust pipe (direct contact of dissimilar metals might create the potential for galvanic corrosion, which would eventually become leaks at the contact poitns). If you run the metal conduit close enough to the exhaust, the radiant heat will probably prevent anything from freezing up in the line.

 

that was the way I was thinking of running mine not liking long runs of hose,even thought of using a length of small exhaust tube think it can be bought in 20 ft lengths

 

Another option is the large diameter clear vinyl hose you can get at Home Depot or Lowes. I know you can get it in both 10 and 20 foot precut lengths, but I also think you can buy it by hte foot as well for really short pieces.

The vinyl holds up to the heat with no problem (I've been running mine since early April), and by having a clear line, you have a chance to see if there is any buildup or other type of "freezing" pluggage in cold weather months.

 

Here's a pic of the hose I used, and a link to where to get it. This is what I recommend, as this hose is very slick inside for reduced friction, a little larger ID than heater hose, it can't be pinched closed or kinked due to its stiff wall construction, and it seems to be holding up perfectly for the warm CCV vapor and other corrosive stuff that vents from the CC. I used the entire 10 ft length, and ran it like the pics in my gallery, and my CC pressure has never exceeded 1.6" H2O at near WOT towing up a 6% grade and at idle it's 0.4" H2O.

The above agrees with the published Racor data of a X4 increase from idle to WOT, and is the same result obtained by Guzzle. BTW, the reason I decided to make a CC pressure a gauge a permanent feature in my truck is to make sure my CCV hose is working, and to monitor for other engine problems and normal wear and tear due to higher mileage. The Racor X4 is a minimum # for a new engine with good rings and other seals, valve guides, etc.. that determine blow by into the CC. The Racor data shows that as an engine wears you get up to a X8 increase in CC pressure from idle to WOT under full load. Also if you start to burn a piston from high EGT or have any number of other failures start to develop, you might see them first as an abnormal increase in CC pressure. Ford has a spec for CC pressure and uses a CC pressure test to diagnose engine problems.

Sewer Solution - 10' Extension
http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/index.cfm/Outdoor-and-RV-Accessories/RV-Maintenance/Sanitation--Sewer/Drain--Flush-Systems/Sewer-Solution--10-Extension-Hose-Kit/skunum=16662:src=CROS

 

I would've gone that route had I thought about it sooner. I just did the 3/4 inch heater hose, but I hear it breaks down in a couple years, so once it starts getting mushy, I'll put in the clear stuff. This was my first mod, since I searched for "7.3L oil leak" or something and found this site. I freaked when I saw the oil down the back of the block & out the tranny weep hole when I did my first oil change back in Feb. Thankfully, it was just the CAC tubes, which I tightened and then did the CCV.

...and the mods haven't stopped since!! About to order the CCK, SS HPX, in-tank stuff, and BTS VB. Then I'm not sure what I should do next. Probably coolant filter, and maybe I'll get AE...

 

Jeez Gene -- that link long enough??

 

You and I think a lot alike. I'm going to have to hold off on my exhaust, DP, and gauge mounts until I can get my coolant filter, front end leveling kit, under-hood fuel gauge, and shim the FPR. I'll probably end up throwing in a set of stealth backup lights somewhere in that mix too. I guess I really should consider the BTS valve body before I do the tuner, though.

Sorry for the hijack, Alpine....

 

Thanks for the info Gene, you da man! Im gonna measure out my CCV pressure ASAP! I'll post what I find

Cowboy Steve

 

Yeah, me too...

I forgot about the AIH delete & 203* 'stat. Those are on my list as well. At least I got to drive my truck today. Wifey had it while I was doing a bunch of yard work, then I loaded it up with tree branches and junk to take to the dump. Of course, she calls me while I'm just about done unloading asking when I'll be back. She needed to "run back out". I guess she forgot about her own d@mn truck...