Code is 1443 = evaporative purge control valve- no or low flow condition.

Does anyone know....... Is this valve below the air cleaner box on the 3L ? while were at it, same question on the Evap purge canister ?

Thanks in advance !

Aeroman.

 

Onm my 3.0L is its under the air box. It seems almost everything involves removing the air hose and/or airbox for service.

 

Yes It's nicely accessible, once the airbox is removed. Took the valve off & tried out the solenoid function, there is also a thermistor; it says on the emissions diagram under the hood, I would presume to monitor temp of the purged gasoline fumes? I was thinking this would be a flow sensor to monitor the purged gas flow.

Not sure if the ECU signal is 5 or 12V, but the valve functions perfectly at 12V, very slightly at 6v (used my battery charger as a power supply). Blew out all the hoses engine side of the evap canister, cleared the DTC's & guess I'll go for a test drive & see if it comes back on. Dont know how many drive cycles it needs though.
While it was all off I was going to clean the MAF sensor but it has tamper proof torx screws on it so this time i did not bother it. Looks fairly clean in the throttle body intake & around the port to the MAF wire.Lots of the rubber hoses are starting to split though, soon enough there are going to be leaks in the vacuum circuits !

Just found a good link which explains how these systems work, looks like what I'd thought was a purge air flow sensor is just that! So if the light comes on I think I'll replace that sensor since the valve seems to be functioning at 12V anyways. There are no restrictions in the air tubes that I can locate, unless the breather tube which comes from the fuel tank is plugged or the canister is plugged.
http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/FoMoCo_1996_OBDII.pdf
Gives info on the Evap purge control circuits & also other EEC tests which are performed as part of the drive cycle.

ATB Aeroman

 

use fuel rated neoprene hose for the canister purge lines
in fact the only thing I use for vac. lines now. it holds up longer to heat breakdown

 

and after 1200 kms it's still off. Re-cap:-

1) Blew through all evap hoses forwards of the evap canister, cut off cracked portions at the purge solenoid.
2) Removed & cleaned purge flow solenoid , checked operation of the solenoid at 12v, free'd up solenoid operation with WD40.
3) Removed & cleaned purge flow sensor (this is the sensor closest to the throttle intake. Checked for any restrictions & gently blew through hose connector.
4) Re-assembled & cleared DTC's & CEL.

ATB Aeroman.

 

Hi Aeroman, and thanks for your thread ref- on the other thread, saw copper's post suggesting the PCV for the 4.0L because of the configuration (Get the PCV Valve for the 4.0L engine. I forgot what the part number is, but it came with a plastic 90 degree bend that is perfect for the canister valve. On this plastic "elbow", there are two nipples for two different sizes of hose, just plug one up. The thing even came with a little plug for you to do this. By the way, what do we do with the rest of the PCV valve? Well, install it of course. The elbow was used on a different car model. On the 4.0L Aerostar, it was not used, so you got that for free Good luck)

I believe the reference was for not having the failure point of a bend in the hose to leak. If that is correct, have any others used this particular one?
I also have tried to see from the schematic what valve that is being refenced. Is it the "Purge Solenoid" seen in figure 3 here: http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm



Also as was suggested, use fuel rated neoprene hose- anyone know the OD/ID I should pick up for this and where I can find them if this is a specialty item-
TIA-
Surf1div1

 

The purge solenoid valve controls vapour flow to the throttle intake. There is also a PFS (purge flow sensor), which is the one closest to the throttle body, either of these could be faulty or you could have a blockage in the rubber pipes or fittings somewhere. I actuated the PSV with a battery charger & blew down the ports of both units with lowish air pressure. You could use a hand pump if no compressor available. I puffed a squirt of wd40 through the purge valve & blasted it while open (12v on terminals for 5 secs). There was quite a lot of dust in the vapour lines. Dont know if this originated from the canister, but the carbon canister absorbs HC from the fuel vapours, so maybe thats where the dust comes from!
I spent no money on this fix......hope it works for ya!

HTH, Aeroman
P.S. my cel is still off so far.

 

Thanks for the details on that- well, it appears that my CLE hasn't come back on - possibly it was from the fuel cap or something, but I still plan to at least take a look at the hoses after my smog check this weekend. Only thing that I'm now having to address is the shift control as the OD light doesn't come on-which Aamco states is bad but will post on that after doing a search for how hard it is to replace that whole shifter.

 

Well, here's an update:
Went to get my smog done after clearing the code and passed. As I got into the vehicle the CEL light was back on (how it passed is beside me since the MLE code should of lit- go figure) so got to work on it this weekend pulled the airbox out of the way to get to the canister(airbox's two recessed screws have to be held down with a vice grip since they're recessed into the lip on the lid but come out easy and end up spinning) and saw what caused the CEL code- on the left side of the canister(one closet to the front) the hose was rotted, and the themistor? was not attached. The weird thing is that the whole on the canister is larger then the one going to the termistor. That is a specialty hose with a 45 degree bend in it. Dealer doesn't even make those hoses and jerry-rigged it by fitting a smaller hose into one side but because they're so many hoses within such a small area I'm not really happy with it. It's temp at this point. Anyway find a solution- I read where one poster replaced one of the vaccume hose devices with a 4.0 ltr part but was wondering what others have done since at this point I'm not getting our local dealer to come up with a part # for it.

 

Get the PCV valve from any auto part store. That valve comes with a 90 degree elbow which is perfect for the job.