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A very slowly worsening problem, if I go into a roughish road or even a smooth one with the odd bump here & there,the steering wheel/column appears to clatter lightly when I hit a rough patch of road. There seems to be no play in the steering linkages, uj's etc, but what would cause a rattle?
I adjusted the wheel bearings about 18 months ago & this definately improved the problem (rattle was less frequent). There is only a VERY slight steering wheel vibration on certain types of road surfaces, but it could just be the road? Steering seems to be quite sensitive to tire balance etc, are they all like this ?
I guess I could start with having the tires re-balanced, & checking the wheel bearings again. Tires are in really good condition. Steering wheel & pedal are not affected by breaking & Brake discs are definately not warped. No clanking, clicking or other noises while manouvering in tight spaces.
I have same problem, mine caused by loose nut behind wheel
is this a noise you hear or a vibration you feel in steering wheel and van?
or both?
may be loose worn out control arm bushings, they only last 100k miles on good smooth roads, less on rough
rotate tires front to rear to eliminate a tire with balance broken belt problem
mine is not sensitive to tire balance...smooth steady road crusin steering feel....noticble under steer but normal for a van...mine does not wander...almost like steering cruise control...pure pleasure to freeway drive.....center returns well....
far better than the over powered steering of 70s Fords
never have had a shimmy shake and run it hard on logging roads, some only mud potholes
how are your camber and caster set up by align shop?
any cupping or uneven wear on tires, especially front?
Lets say that you have an otherwise perfect aerostar with it tracking,caster, & camber. The way the tires wear and the whole nine yards. Okay, did you consider the things that aren't usually brought up? I've changed out whole steering wheel assemblies on these babies and I've noticed the actual bolts that hold the columns to the dash loose. When you remove the plastic panels to access them you'll see 4 large nuts that are facing down. The main pin/anchor bolts that are facing down are welded into place and support the weight of the column. I have noticed these to work loose from time to time. Why not access your plastic panel under your steering wheel just to be on the safe side. I've actually found them loose, because I was able to raise and lower the column and noticed that there was play in this area. While here I went ahead and scribe marked them (felt tip marker works too) for any future investigating of movement. Secondly, when you pop your hood look down at your steering link. Look straight down below the master cylinder. See where the universal joint connection is before it goes to your steering rod assembly? Most people aren't looking here either. The small cap screws can back off here as well. These vans are known for leaking and failing steering gear assemblies so don't overlook the obvious. If you have considerable play the norm are to have these to be bad. Remember the name of the game is to review the tried and true, BUT don't forget ALL of the other connections included as well.
There is a noise & a very slight vibration; I can barely feel it. The clatter noise is when I go over a pot hole or bumpy road. I can also get a very slight sensation thro' the steering wheel accompanied by this light clatter at certain highway speeds..... but not always. I need to take the road wheels off soon to replace the anti rattle shims which I'd left off last time I did the brakes (last spring). I can then look at the ball joints & tie rods etc & switch the wheels front/back. My front tires seem to be wearing perfectly evenly, but I can get a better idea when I have them off the van.
I had wheel alignment done about 3 years back. Previous to that I was wearing front tires out like a racing car, only without the race ! Had it checked out 2-3 times ,they all said there was no problem, but a set of front tires every 50,000 kms told me there definately was a problem. I then took it to a suspension specialist & they confirmed that alignment was out, ever since they adjusted it, tire wear has been greatly improved & no uneven wear noted. The rattle was there before the alignment, but slowly it has been getting worse, likely got some worn bushings or other steering parts somewhere........... but where?
Now got 266500 kms on this van, had 1 set of tie rods replaced at about 180,000 (I had an obvious steering wander when they wore out). No steering play now though.
ATB Aeroman.
Last edited by Aeroman59; May 14, 2007 at 08:50 PM.
Lets say that you have an otherwise perfect aerostar with it tracking,caster, & camber. The way the tires wear and the whole nine yards. Okay, did you consider the things that aren't usually brought up? I've changed out whole steering wheel assemblies on these babies and I've noticed the actual bolts that hold the columns to the dash loose. When you remove the plastic panels to access them you'll see 4 large nuts that are facing down. The main pin/anchor bolts that are facing down are welded into place and support the weight of the column. I have noticed these to work loose from time to time. Why not access your plastic panel under your steering wheel just to be on the safe side. I've actually found them loose, because I was able to raise and lower the column and noticed that there was play in this area. While here I went ahead and scribe marked them (felt tip marker works too) for any future investigating of movement. Secondly, when you pop your hood look down at your steering link. Look straight down below the master cylinder. See where the universal joint connection is before it goes to your steering rod assembly? Most people aren't looking here either. The small cap screws can back off here as well. These vans are known for leaking and failing steering gear assemblies so don't overlook the obvious. If you have considerable play the norm are to have these to be bad. Remember the name of the game is to review the tried and true, BUT don't forget ALL of the other connections included as well.
Good idea, I think I'm going to pull off the plastic shroud because thats where the metalic sounding rattle seems to be coming from, inside the vehicle. Cant really feel any play from the column/ wheel, but something does sound loose under there. No steering gear leaks or torn boots etc that I can obviously see & no oil drips on the driveway.
Last edited by Aeroman59; May 14, 2007 at 08:48 PM.
I think I would definitely check the tie rods and the control arm bushings. Get the front wheels off the ground and grab a wheel at 3 and 9 oclock and work it back and forth. Any play can be localized to the inner or outer tie rods. Do the same thing grabbing the wheel at 12 and 6 oclock. Any play here points you to the upper or lower control arm bushings.
I got a pretty good rattle when braking on the highway; wheel alignment mechanic grabbed the wheel at 3 & 9 and when he saw the movement, told me to go get inner tie rods.
if this an AWD, check the sub frame to front diff. mount bolts and bracket
they break or loosen
also check CV joints
It's a rear wheel drive. Funny thing ..... this morning drive to work the van did not rattle once ! When it starts to rattle though ,it tends to keep on going untill the road surface changes or steering direction is changed from straight ahead. Infact by pulling on the wheel to change lanes or deviate from a straight line, often this action will stop the noise. It's almost like I have an oval bushing somewhere in the steering column.
O.K. I've had a preliminary look-see. Found some play between the U.J's below the P.S pump. There is a steering shaft which looks to be an extending joint between the two sets of u.j's. The U.J's feel O.K, there is no rotational play but If I grab the shaft near the rubber boot (between the U.J's) & push/pull on it I can get the same rattle (must be the joint is under the boot & feels bone dry) that I hear inside the pass compartment while traversing a rough road. There are two pinch bolts, one at each end of the u.j's, it looks fairly straight forward to get this off. Anyone repaired /replaced it? also what is that assembly called?
2. CAUTION: Be sure the steering column is in the locked position. The lower end of the steering column may be wired in such a way as to prevent the steering wheel from being turned, as air bag sliding contact (14A664) will be damaged.
Remove bolt from U-joint-to-lower steering shaft.
3. From inside the vehicle, remove intermediate shaft.
4. Remove bolt from U-joint-to-steering gear input shaft.
5. Remove lower steering column shaft (3B676) from the vehicle.
Installation
1. Install U-joint of lower shaft assembly to the input shaft on the steering gear input worm gear and rack (3524). Install and tighten bolt to 41-57 N-m (30-42 lb-ft).
2. Install intermediate shaft through boot and to steering column lower shaft assembly, making sure the flats of the intermediate shaft line up with the U-joint-to-lower steering shaft. Install and tighten bolt to 41-57 N-m (30-42 lb-ft).
3. Extend intermediate shaft and insert U-joint-to-column shaft coupling into end of steering column shaft. Install and tighten bolt to 41-57 N-m (30-42 lb-ft).
4. Remove wire used to prevent column shaft rotation as described in Step 2 of Removal.
5. Check steering column for proper operation.
Last edited by krankshaft; Jun 6, 2007 at 07:36 PM.
So,........ the steering wheel rattle was traced to defective rear tyres ! I had all wheels balanced & the tyre tech told me that the rear tyres were warped/ out of round & also had a sidewall bulge in one of them. I had them balanced anyway, but the problem persisted ( improved but still there). 2 days later I replaced the rear tyres & now NO rattle. I checked out the steering gear. I do have a slight amount of play while applying force to the wheels (pushing pulling etc). I will have to get to that at the next brake service interval.