Aircon drops off below 2000 RPMS. Normal?
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Aircon drops off below 2000 RPMS. Normal?
I have an 03 Explorer EB 6cyl with rear air. I have noticed that this year it seems to not be cooling very well at idle or even up to about 2000 rpms. I added a little freon last night and it got colder, but only above 2K rpms! What could be causing the ac to not blow cold below 2K?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 5
From: Lorain County, Ohio
It could be a few things, but it really sounds like poor airflow over the condenser. You really need a get of gauges to diagnose it properly.
As a quick check, mist water over the condenser (in front of the radiator). If it cools better at idle for a minute, the fan clutch is toast.
As a quick check, mist water over the condenser (in front of the radiator). If it cools better at idle for a minute, the fan clutch is toast.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Thanks guys,
Ill check into all of your suggestions.
So this whole system takes like 35oz of freon and another 13oz of oil so the whole system is ~50 oz. How long would it take to suck that much freon into the system? I was thinking that perhaps it had stopped pulling the freon in after 10 minutes or so, but could it just need more time to get full?
Ill check into all of your suggestions.
So this whole system takes like 35oz of freon and another 13oz of oil so the whole system is ~50 oz. How long would it take to suck that much freon into the system? I was thinking that perhaps it had stopped pulling the freon in after 10 minutes or so, but could it just need more time to get full?
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
uh, thanks for not anwering my question quicklook.
Now, can anyone tell me how long it takes to load ~30oz of r134a in the system? In past, non-ford systems it only took about 5 minutes to do say 15 or 20 oz's. I thought I saw a post that said these systems may take longer is why I ask.
Now, can anyone tell me how long it takes to load ~30oz of r134a in the system? In past, non-ford systems it only took about 5 minutes to do say 15 or 20 oz's. I thought I saw a post that said these systems may take longer is why I ask.
Trending Topics
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 5
From: Lorain County, Ohio
Originally Posted by ronpapworth
Thanks guys,
Ill check into all of your suggestions.
So this whole system takes like 35oz of freon and another 13oz of oil so the whole system is ~50 oz. How long would it take to suck that much freon into the system? I was thinking that perhaps it had stopped pulling the freon in after 10 minutes or so, but could it just need more time to get full?
Ill check into all of your suggestions.
So this whole system takes like 35oz of freon and another 13oz of oil so the whole system is ~50 oz. How long would it take to suck that much freon into the system? I was thinking that perhaps it had stopped pulling the freon in after 10 minutes or so, but could it just need more time to get full?
Check this out: http://www.familycar.com/ac1.htm
Your symptoms point to a bad fan clutch. Try the water trick.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Now that you mention it, that sucker was blowing in the breeze (still spinning) after I shut the hot engine off the other day...Who knew it pulled all that aire through the condensor. Ill check it with the water and even the rolled up newspaper trick later today.
Thanks LSRX101! You even find your self going north or south through Northern Ky in that EMD E8A?
Thanks LSRX101! You even find your self going north or south through Northern Ky in that EMD E8A?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 5
From: Lorain County, Ohio
Originally Posted by ronpapworth
Now that you mention it, that sucker was blowing in the breeze (still spinning) after I shut the hot engine off the other day...Who knew it pulled all that aire through the condensor. Ill check it with the water and even the rolled up newspaper trick later today.
Thanks LSRX101! You even find your self going north or south through Northern Ky in that EMD E8A?
Thanks LSRX101! You even find your self going north or south through Northern Ky in that EMD E8A?
The E-8 usually stays around Wellington, Ohio, with an occasional trip to Brewster, Ohio (The W&LE locomotive shops) for repairs or inspection. If you're ever in the area on a Saturday or Sunday, stop in and take a ride. Our operating schedule is on the website.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Well it's back to square one. The clutch fan seems to be fine and the temp of the air coming out doesnt change when I spray the condenser down. I probably need to get a good set of gauges to see what my high and low pressures are, but I can't even seem to find what they should be for the systems that have front and rear air. Is it a higher low side for these larger systems? Maybe I am just not allowing enough time to fill the system? Im just worried I may be overfilling...
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Update:
Apparently I didnt have the valve open as far as it needed to go on the first can causing it to not empty very fast. I decided to add more and emptied the 12 oz can I had in 20 seconds. The temp on the meat thermometer in the dash dropped from 80 deg (outside temp 83) to 67. Added another can and I have it down to 59 degrees. I ran out of daylight but plan on adding another can tomorrow or until I get the temp on the dash to 40 degrees less than outside temp. The gauge that came with the set spikes when the compressor is off but is hanging right around 50 PSI when it's running, which is all the time when the front and rear air systems are on max. Ill check it tomorrow with just the front system on and on medium. That's how I started the check earlier and I was getting good numbers off this cheap gauge... The compressor would cycle off at 47 PSI and kick back on when it hit 30 PSI. Which I have read is when the switches should be triggering it.
Thanks for all the help guys and let me know if anything sounds off base!
Apparently I didnt have the valve open as far as it needed to go on the first can causing it to not empty very fast. I decided to add more and emptied the 12 oz can I had in 20 seconds. The temp on the meat thermometer in the dash dropped from 80 deg (outside temp 83) to 67. Added another can and I have it down to 59 degrees. I ran out of daylight but plan on adding another can tomorrow or until I get the temp on the dash to 40 degrees less than outside temp. The gauge that came with the set spikes when the compressor is off but is hanging right around 50 PSI when it's running, which is all the time when the front and rear air systems are on max. Ill check it tomorrow with just the front system on and on medium. That's how I started the check earlier and I was getting good numbers off this cheap gauge... The compressor would cycle off at 47 PSI and kick back on when it hit 30 PSI. Which I have read is when the switches should be triggering it.
Thanks for all the help guys and let me know if anything sounds off base!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 5
From: Lorain County, Ohio
50 psi is too high for the low side pressure.
Lets back up here. I'm confused. Why are you adding refrigerant? You were asking about capacities, are you trying to completely recharge the system?
On the Cycling switch, it switches off at ~28psi and back on at ~45psi. If it's cutting out at ~47psi, there is another problem.
The system may not always cool when misting water over the condenser, especially if both systems are running. This is just a test for the fan clutch. You need to watch the high side pressure while doing this,
You really need to get a manifold gauge set to see what the pressures are actually doing. I've got a feeling your high side pressure is way up there. This can kill the compressor. You can usually rent a gauge set from AutoZone or other chain parts store, or but a set for about $50. You're getting to a point where you need the right tools if you're going to fix this your self.
Lets back up here. I'm confused. Why are you adding refrigerant? You were asking about capacities, are you trying to completely recharge the system?
On the Cycling switch, it switches off at ~28psi and back on at ~45psi. If it's cutting out at ~47psi, there is another problem.
The system may not always cool when misting water over the condenser, especially if both systems are running. This is just a test for the fan clutch. You need to watch the high side pressure while doing this,
You really need to get a manifold gauge set to see what the pressures are actually doing. I've got a feeling your high side pressure is way up there. This can kill the compressor. You can usually rent a gauge set from AutoZone or other chain parts store, or but a set for about $50. You're getting to a point where you need the right tools if you're going to fix this your self.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Redneck-Cowboy
Performance & General Engine Building
2
Oct 6, 2010 09:01 AM
captjohn
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
2
Oct 31, 2004 06:58 AM