as i said before most of my mods are homemade including my shift kit, my current one involved drilling my accumulator body but i am going to experiment with electronicly changing my line pressures, has anyone else used either method? my current body will bark my 35's on the 1-2 shift and on the right pavement the 2-3 as well. but i am quite **** with my truck and am unimpressed by my part throttle shifts some times so i am going to start playing again

 

I would recommending just dropping the $225 to buy a BTS valve body. BTS build one of the top E4OD and has a great reputation.

http://www.brianstruckshop.com/

 

when i click on his products the link is inop, how do they perform? stock shift points? how firm is the shift?

 

I don't ahve one yet but everyone who does says they are the best thing since sliced bread. Shoft points are a function of the PCM so that can burned into a chip, shift are firm but not too hard. He tunes it according to your power levels/mods. Their website doesn't give any good specs or anything. Give them a call.

 

will do, so your truck trans is bone stock? if so might i suggest my mod? every truck i have put it in has 100 % positive results, i am just very **** about my whole truck, i dont even like the banks e40d trans command

 

Sure, tell what you got. Not real sure what my tranny has. It was rebuilt before I bought it. The shop was able to tell me it has a multi disc converter but couldn't tell me about any internal stuff. It shifts like a stock tranny.

 

the install is very simple, almost too easy, figured it out overhauling one once, i will post a pic tonite when i get home

 

by stock shift to you mean good, normal shifts or the typical sloppy slide into gear shifts associated with the e4od?

 

yes by stock shifts I mean normal E4od shifts. They aren't terrible but they are far from firm.

 

sorry but the pics will have to wait till tomarrow, its 11 now and i'm just gettin in check in tomarrow

 

Would also like to see the mod pict.
Explain how and why it works?
What is your line pressure now? (A-idle,Park / B-idle,reverse)

Bill

 

it works on the same principle as the bullydog shift kit in which you replace your accumulator springs with the new ones but rather than buying a kit i pulled my accumulator and added a bypass to each shift passage to allow more volume to get by. it is very simple to perform and cures the lovely shift our transmissions have. the best part is that it is free, with the exception of some brakekleen and fluid that is. i am off to the garage to pull out my spare body to snap some pics of how it works, check back in a bit

 

Cool!
I like to see the picts!
I use a 427 valve as of now.

Bill

 

well, if they work the upper picture is your accumulator body, its the furthest foreword hunk of aluminum under your trans pan, remove it and flip it over,
top left piston is your line pressure valve, lower left is your 1-2 shift, top right is your 2-3 and lower right is 3-4.

ok the lower pic is the close up of the 1-2 and 2-3 valves where you need to locate the slight dimple in the aluminum, its the first rail at the output of the piston from the valve. the picture isnt the best but once in your hand you cant miss them, drill a 1\16 hole through each rail, the larger the hole the harder your shift will be, i dont recomend the hole that you see in the picture...lol, that is 3 sizes up from the 1\16, had that in my other truck and wow, what a shift that was, the 1\16 will give you a nice crisp shift at WOT. be extra careful not to egg the hole out when you drill it otherwise your shift may be harder than you like, drilling on a 45degree angle is the easiest to control, every trans is a little different so start small and egg very slowly until you get the desired shift,

i will be experimenting with the line pressure valve to see what i can come up with there and also by using the pcm to electronicly advance the epc, they are still in the trial stages so i dont recommend trying them yet, the drilling of the holes is 100% safe, i even ran it by ford motor companies field service engineer and he was very impressed by the results and could see no damage occuring from this mod unless you go crazy and grab a huge bit, the worse that could happen is break our flimsy 4 pinion aluminum foreward planetary set but then you upgrade to the 4r100 6 pinion forged steel, (direct bolt in) and you'll never have a problem again, but again that is worse case if you go with some massive hole like some idiot i know.......hmmmm what was i thinking?

 

So do you drill all three partition with the dimple or just the two in the bottom pic?