all 3, they each have the dimple at the same location, my third picture turned out blurry, the most important thing is drill straight dont wiggle, a new bit glides right through will no effort, a smooth start is the key, and brakeclean the crap out of it, no left over shavings, if you look at the top pic you can see all 3 dimples easily

 

Will this work with all 5 casting #s used in E4 and 4R?
E9,F0/F1,F6,F6non pto,F81 pto.
Basically this mod exhaust the fluid faster. Thus no need for higher spring pressure. Where does the fluid go. I donot have any kind of a fluid path diagram for the E4 or 4R.

1/16 is your start point with a 331 or 372 valve?

Bill

 

it works on all e40d and 4r100's its the same body they interchange, the fluid dumps into the same passage it normally would just faster

 

1\16 should make just about anbody happy, yes that is the start point, some trannys like a little more, for instance, the one in my truck is all drilled to 1\16 but my 1-2 was not firm enough for my taste so i pulled it back down and egged it out just a bit, but not up to the next size drill bit, my 3-4 was soft still as well so i took it up to the next bit size, i think it was 3\64? dont quote me on that one i'd have to check my bit index for sure but they are all pretty much equal now, my trans is a little tired at 225k so my part throttle shifts are a hair softer than i like, but by far better than stock. i am very **** about my truck, thus why i am goin to turn up my line pressure. I've had friends ride with me to help find noises and they look at me like i'm crazy when they finally hear the noises so when i complain about my truck keep that in mind. Everyone i have ever drilled has been quite pleased with their new shifts, keep in mind that this is permanent so if you drill to big you are stuck, but there are tons of e4od's laying in junkyards, any accumulator will work

 

Excellent!
Have you tested your line pressure?
The reason i ask is i have a 427 valve with the pump mod and it raised the idle pressure to 100psi (P,N). Depending on year of trans you have a 331 or 372. Which will have 50 to 65 psi

I like your mod over the spring method due to side loading and wear.

On another note.
I would not raise the EPC electronicly. Go hydro
Use the PCM to change just shift points.


Bill

 

i thin ki have the electronicly figured out, it will work the same way as if the pcm saw slip codes and raises your epc in that manner, but i will be able to control it, its all theory right now but it will be tested soon

 

MadVan can you explain the .427 valve and the pump mod you mentioned? I know the least about trannies but mine is going to be needing help soon.

 

Understood.
Keep at it.
Its hard to find any answers when it comes to a trans.
Few will attempt any kind of repair/rebuild/experiment ect.
CHICKEN SITTS.

Not to hijack but i have a question
The PCM reads fluid temp in volts. Even when checking with a scanner it's volts. Anything i find is resistance=temp. I am looking for a conversion chart for volts=temps. I want to read/see what PCM see's

Bill

 

Tim
Basic transgo.
For the pump you mod the pressure regulator.
For the valve body you mod the pressure modulator. (larger valve=more flow)

I went for a pump mod so i could get a positive lockup on the TC.

Bill

 

your trans fluid temp sensor is a thermistor, it works off the same 5 volt system as your other sensors do, the minimum it would see is .3 volts which is 230 degrees and 4.5 volts is 40 degrees, anything over 4.5 or under .3 will throw a trans light and throw her into failsafe hope that helps you

 

Bear with me here. Looking at parts. this link to number 20 and 20s. I am guessing your went with 20s

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/e4od.htm

with this valve and the hole drilled in the valve body this will give me higher line pressure and faster shifts?

 

Correct
The sensor is not linier. I have checked.
.3v=230* but TFT overheat is 270*. By then its way to late.

Bill

 

right the light should be coming on by the time you are up to 230 and above

 

Tim
Correct!

With coonjoe mod will firm shifts from what i can see. The way he exhaust the fluid is better than springs. No need for the 20/20s if you not increasing HP/TORK. And if you are maybe just the 20s. Only testing will tell.

Bill

 

HP and TQ are already increased so I think I might be looking into these mods soon. Too bad I just serviced my tranny last week. But it all needs to come apart again anyway since who ever did the last rebuild put a 2wd pan and filter on it! morons!