High idle mod?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
High idle mod?
Looking for suggestions from you guys. I need a way to have a controlled idle at about 900-1000 RPM, preferably at the flip of a switch. I know the 6.0L diesel has this in it's programming with a simple wire tap required, but being a diesel I doubt there's much of that circuitry that would apply here.
Basically, the alternator can't keep up with my headlights, parking lights, taillights, and driving/fog lights all at once. Anything above idle and it's fine, so I'd like to boost it up to 900-1000 RPM on command to fix the problem.
Anyone got suggestions on doing this? I'm all ears. Thanks.
Basically, the alternator can't keep up with my headlights, parking lights, taillights, and driving/fog lights all at once. Anything above idle and it's fine, so I'd like to boost it up to 900-1000 RPM on command to fix the problem.
Anyone got suggestions on doing this? I'm all ears. Thanks.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,055
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From: Magnolia, TX
RP,
I have thought about this because I want to build an idle controller also when I install a Power Inverter in my Ranger.
My thoughts: How about a vacuum switch with a series rotary adjustable valve? Tap into one of the vacuum lines, run it in the cab through the "analog" valve then through the pneumatic toggle switch. This way you can first adjust how high you want the idle with the rotary switch, and use the pneumatic toggle switch as the ON/OFF.
Any reason why this wouldn't work?
CMOS
I have thought about this because I want to build an idle controller also when I install a Power Inverter in my Ranger.
My thoughts: How about a vacuum switch with a series rotary adjustable valve? Tap into one of the vacuum lines, run it in the cab through the "analog" valve then through the pneumatic toggle switch. This way you can first adjust how high you want the idle with the rotary switch, and use the pneumatic toggle switch as the ON/OFF.
Any reason why this wouldn't work?
CMOS
Elder User
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From: Lynchburg, VA
Zach,
Wouldn't it be better to install a higher output alternator instead of burning more fuel to keep the lights on? Would the load due to a bigger alternator on the engine increase significantly to require the idle increase? Is this a reasonable approach? Pat
Wouldn't it be better to install a higher output alternator instead of burning more fuel to keep the lights on? Would the load due to a bigger alternator on the engine increase significantly to require the idle increase? Is this a reasonable approach? Pat
Last edited by pgw85706; May 16, 2007 at 09:30 AM.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,055
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From: Magnolia, TX
Pat,
Even with a high output ALT there is still the issue of pulley speed. A High OP ALT will still deliver minimal amperage at low idle speeds.
CMOS
Even with a high output ALT there is still the issue of pulley speed. A High OP ALT will still deliver minimal amperage at low idle speeds.
CMOS
Last edited by CMOS; May 16, 2007 at 10:30 AM.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
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From: Abilene Kansas
just put in a cable pull throttle. We have them in all of our farm trucks for when its cold. i can rev them up to 1500 and let them sit and warm up. you can even hide it in the glove box if you so chose
Matt
Matt
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From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by pgw85706
Zach,
Wouldn't it be better to install a higher output alternator instead of burning more fuel to keep the lights on? Would the load due to a bigger alternator on the engine increase significantly to require the idle increase? Is this a reasonable approach? Pat
Wouldn't it be better to install a higher output alternator instead of burning more fuel to keep the lights on? Would the load due to a bigger alternator on the engine increase significantly to require the idle increase? Is this a reasonable approach? Pat
I believe the '96 / '97 Explorer 4.0L has a factory 130 amp alternator that will work on Zach's Ranger, in place of the 95 amp factory alternator (pretty sure) he has in there now.
Another option: http://mralternator.com/alternators/ford.html
Anything more than a 130 amp alternator then you ought to upgrade the wiring, as well (bat to alt. & alt. to ground), IMO.
Last edited by Rockledge; May 16, 2007 at 10:15 AM.
Elder User
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From: Lynchburg, VA
Thanks CMOS. I googled the topic and it is a common problem in like buses where high loads (lights, heater blowers, chair lifts) occur at normal idle conditions. The link showed for International buses they have a manual throttle button that jumps the idle speed up to some pre-set point. Another link showed a home grown version a guy installed on his jeep and it was basically a lawn mower cable to a lever attached to his stick shift like Matt described.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
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From: Abilene Kansas
we have cable driven idle control that u pull and it manually pulls the trottle. it has no affect on normal driving (and i use it as cruise on our wheat trucks, illegal? hell i dont care)
Matt
Matt
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Post Fiend
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From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by CMOS
Pat,
Even with a high output ALT there is still the issue of pulley speed. A High OP ALT will still deliver minumal aperage at low idle speeds.
CMOS
Even with a high output ALT there is still the issue of pulley speed. A High OP ALT will still deliver minumal aperage at low idle speeds.
CMOS
Elder User
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From: Lynchburg, VA
Originally Posted by Rockledge
I could be wrong, but I think the higher performance alternators, such as the 200A model listed in the link I posted above, come with a different-sized pulley to help address the lower-output-at-idle concern. I don't know that for sure so I'd probably email the vendor for more info if I were thinking about going that big. And I'd inquire about any wiring upgrade tips, as well.
Elder User
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From: Lynchburg, VA
Originally Posted by fordboy_52
we have cable driven idle control that u pull and it manually pulls the trottle. it has no affect on normal driving (and i use it as cruise on our wheat trucks, illegal? hell i dont care)
Matt
Matt
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From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by pgw85706
Plus further to Rockledge's point and my initial thought, you may find that a higher output alternator can provide sufficiently more output at the idle conditions to meet your requirements.
I don't think it would be a waste of money, in any event.
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Post Fiend
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
From what I read in the elctrical forum, a higher amperage alternator would actually put out lower amps at idle for whatever reason. That being said, this 130 amp alt from the Explorer might not be a bad idea, if of course, it will provide some sort of increase in power at idle.
How does this cable driven throttle boost work, and how do you get around the spring loaded return on the throttle plate?
How does this cable driven throttle boost work, and how do you get around the spring loaded return on the throttle plate?
The Pacifier
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,245
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From: Cloverdale, BC
It's a cable that attaches to the throttle, much like a throttle cable, but hand operated. Usually a black **** that you twist, tighten for more tension, or loosen for less tension. A red button will remove all tension and you are back to normal operation. And you can still have normal throttle operation, but only above your set idle.
I can't find anything to link, but you might find one at a truck or ag dealer.
I can't find anything to link, but you might find one at a truck or ag dealer.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Very interesting, I like it. I might have to look into that, doesn't seem as if it would be expensive or difficult to install either. Thanks for the idea.
I also was doing some talking with friends today, somebody suggested sending a fixed voltage signal to the IAC to maintain X RPM, but I'm not nearly good enough with electronics past sound systems to regulate voltage to that extreme.
I also was doing some talking with friends today, somebody suggested sending a fixed voltage signal to the IAC to maintain X RPM, but I'm not nearly good enough with electronics past sound systems to regulate voltage to that extreme.