High idle mod?
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 601
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From: Denver
If you go to the parts store, ask for a manual choke cable, so they know what you are talking about. Then you just figure a way to connect it to the throttle plate so it allows the throttle to go open without moving this cable, but when you pull on this cable a little it pulls the throttle open. I've done it before on engines that had carbs that wanted to ice under certain conditions - it was the easiest work-around.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
Likes: 4
From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
I was thinking the best way to do it would be sort of a reversed linkage, where the linkage would push the throttle open just slightly, so the throttle could snap back against it without problems and stay open slightly, as well as it not possibly hindering throttle movement.
I'll probably pick up a cable and check it out. Gotta find a way to make it stay that way without me holding it though, that'll be the fun part.
I'll probably pick up a cable and check it out. Gotta find a way to make it stay that way without me holding it though, that'll be the fun part.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 696
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From: Lynchburg, VA
Here's some links that I came across earlier today that may stimulate your thinking.
http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech-...d-throttle.htm
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/throttle.html
http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/th...p_throttle.htm
http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech-...d-throttle.htm
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/throttle.html
http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/th...p_throttle.htm
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 1
Many autos with 4bbl carbs and A/C came with a idle kick-up solenoid. Some of them simply bolted to the carb base bolts. When the A/C was turned on, the solenoid plunger would push against an arm on the throttle and slightly open the throttle speeding up the engine. The plunger is adjustable. If I were doing this, I would look at this option. They are all over the place at auto salvages. jd
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 524
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From: Liberty, MO
I spotted this item at my local Advanced Auto while I was picking up oil and a filter. It was in a section of parts that looked like small motor parts. It appeared to be a throttle for a push mower. It came with about 3-4 feet worth of cable and was only $5.86 as shown. Its a horrizontal plate with the red lever shown in the middle. 
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
Likes: 4
From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
I would assume that our vehicles perform that same function via the IAC.
That would actually be a great idea if I could get a good mounting solution going. That is, of course, provided that it won't draw much current either, no reason to compound the problem by adding a solenoid. That would be pretty spiffy to have though, just flip the switch for the lights and on it comes as well.
That would actually be a great idea if I could get a good mounting solution going. That is, of course, provided that it won't draw much current either, no reason to compound the problem by adding a solenoid. That would be pretty spiffy to have though, just flip the switch for the lights and on it comes as well.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
Likes: 4
From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
I might have to do that, find a Jeep board or something similar and get advice from them. That's a pretty good idea Dan, thanks!
Vince, sorry, you posted that picture and all that while I was typing so I didn't see it, nor credit you for it, my fault, thank you very much, I'll keep that in mind as well.
Vince, sorry, you posted that picture and all that while I was typing so I didn't see it, nor credit you for it, my fault, thank you very much, I'll keep that in mind as well.
Senior User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 149
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From: Overland Park, KS
Have you considered simply upgrading your wiring? I used to drive an '86 Merc Cougar that had the same problem, though it was due to my "pimp lights" in and under the car (don't ask). I ran a 4 gauge wire from the output of the alternator straight to the battery terminal. I then ran a 6 gauge wire from the battery terminal to the fuse box, and another 4 gauge from the negative battery terminal to a good, solid bolt on the engine (alternator mount). This made a huge difference at idle, and really helped my stereo/subs out.
To figure if you need to upgrade your wiring, turn everything electrical on. Bright lights, blower motor, stereo, windshield wipers, everything. Then take a voltage measurement between the output of your alternator and the positive battery terminal. I'm willing to bet you're losing at least a volt-and-a-half through the wiring. The 4-gauge wire will eliminate that voltage drop and give you substantially higher available output at idle. You also get the side-effect of your alternator lasting longer because it's not having to put out so much voltage.
To figure if you need to upgrade your wiring, turn everything electrical on. Bright lights, blower motor, stereo, windshield wipers, everything. Then take a voltage measurement between the output of your alternator and the positive battery terminal. I'm willing to bet you're losing at least a volt-and-a-half through the wiring. The 4-gauge wire will eliminate that voltage drop and give you substantially higher available output at idle. You also get the side-effect of your alternator lasting longer because it's not having to put out so much voltage.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 524
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From: Liberty, MO
I've got a sub, a true 1000 watt amp, and a digital capacitor for the amp that reads the voltage across itself. It reads 14.7-14.9 volts at idle on my truck. Thats the factory alternater and 4 gauge wire ran to the back of my cab. Have you ever cleaned up all of your grounds before? They can get pretty corroded over time and that may be part of your problem.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
Likes: 4
From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Yep, cleaned when I replaced all the wires.
My radio, sub, amp, speakers, etc. all do nothing at idle, even when blasting at almost max volume (max hurts...). Nothing drags nearly as much power as these lights, I assume because they're rated so high.
My radio, sub, amp, speakers, etc. all do nothing at idle, even when blasting at almost max volume (max hurts...). Nothing drags nearly as much power as these lights, I assume because they're rated so high.
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