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400 Charging System Not Functioning - What else could the problem be?

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Old May 6, 2007 | 01:43 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by danlee
It looks like it is wired backwards. The F pin to A pin reads like the A pin to I pin should, and the A pin to I pin reads like the F pin to A pin should.
The F to A should be open. Everything to A should be open. At least according to the Ford diagram. I'll check mine.
 
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Old May 6, 2007 | 02:44 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by ihateminimumwage

Should I start reconnecting things, and see if the resistance changes?

EDIT: Danlee, just to be sure, I rechecked everything, and those are the correct measurements. So maybe it was wired wrong to begin with?
Yes, you should reconnect everything. You may have the wrong part. Can you go on line at the website for the store where you bought the VR, and check what the website gives for the part # against what you have?
 
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Old May 6, 2007 | 02:56 PM
  #138  
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Just checked NAPA. The part number for my regulator is the same as what they have listed online.
What I thought was strange was that they have the same regulator listed for a 40-65 Amp alt as a 70-100 amp alt
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&Keyword=voltage%20regula tor&KeywordCat=Voltage+Regulator&VehCode=Y

EDIT: So what should I be doing next? I don't want to just figure the VR was bad, then pop in a new one and have it get fried too. Any other tests I can go through to make sure? And what about my MM not showing any resistance between the A and S?

What does it all mean?!
 

Last edited by ihateminimumwage; May 6, 2007 at 03:31 PM.
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Old May 6, 2007 | 05:45 PM
  #139  
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You should not read any resistance between A and S so that is fine.

I measured the one I took out of my car
A-I = open
F-I = 5.6M
F-A = open
C-I = 10.67k
C-A = 5.37M
C-S = 433
C-F = 5.44M

Now some of those seemed strange, given the diagram so I drilled the rivets and opened it up!
Well, should have figured. They replaced the relays. It was all potted in epoxy but I could clearly see that it was all solid state (transistors, diodes, resistors and capacitors) so now the measurements make more sense.
A-I and F-A should definitely be open though. Those are both closed on yours so it is definitely not correct. Either it is the wrong part or it is broken.
Both my used and brand new regulators are stamped with the words; Short circuit protected. So the regulator should not have fried... Does yours say that?

Not sure what to check next. Gotta go right now though.
 
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Old May 6, 2007 | 05:48 PM
  #140  
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[QUOTE=ihateminimumwage]Just checked NAPA. The part number for my regulator is the same as what they have listed online.
What I thought was strange was that they have the same regulator listed for a 40-65 Amp alt as a 70-100 amp alt
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430&Keyword=voltage%20regula tor&KeywordCat=Voltage+Regulator&VehCode=Y

The url doesn't work for me, just takes me to the selection page.
But, to answer your question. The same regulator should work with any sized alternator. The full alternator output current does not flow through the regulator.
 
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Old May 6, 2007 | 05:50 PM
  #141  
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Thanks for all the info!

Mine doesn't say anything on it. The NAPA one is just blank, and the Niehoff one I bought a while ago just has a warning sticker that says to ground the VR before applying power (I think that one got fried from the F wire grounding out, still need to return it).
Who was yours manufactured by? I'd like to find a SS protected one, but until then, I'll run by NAPA today or tomorrow and pick up a replacement.

So does this mean I can put my truck back together now?
 
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Old May 6, 2007 | 07:28 PM
  #142  
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I think that we have concluded that your VR is bad. We have not been able to find a cause, so we must assume it was bad when it was installed.

Pick up a new VR and check the resistance readings before installing it. It should show A to I and A to F open. If that is true, then install it and check for ground current. Should be near zero.

Then run your truck, shut it off and recheck the ground current.
 
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Old May 6, 2007 | 07:31 PM
  #143  
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Will do!
I'll let you guys know after I do the install tomorrow, thanks for all the help!
 
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Old May 6, 2007 | 11:39 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by ihateminimumwage
Who was yours manufactured by? I'd like to find a SS protected one, but until then, I'll run by NAPA today or tomorrow and pick up a replacement.
I have no idea who made the one that came out of the car. I figured it was original. There is no name on it. Just the note about being protected. The brand new one I have came from Ron Francis as part of a new wiring harness I am installing. I didn't measure that one because I don't want to open the bag. I am going to convert this car over to a single wire type alternator so I want to be able to return the regulator.
 
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Old May 7, 2007 | 07:52 PM
  #145  
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Stopped in at NAPA after work and traded out the VR. Tested the new one, everything seemed good, so installed it, no drain. Started the truck and let it run for a minute, shut it off, and it still seems good.
I notice now that my ammeter doesn't go all the way to the max charge while I'm driving now... Which is very good, it means my voltage is actually being regulated!

I still have most everything unhooked, so I'm going to take my time and keep testing the VR after I reconnect each piece. Hopefully this is the end of this thread...

Thanks again guys for all your help!
 
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Old May 10, 2007 | 07:31 AM
  #146  
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Forgive me...

How's it goin'??? Still up and running? Problem fixed?
 
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Old May 10, 2007 | 06:19 PM
  #147  
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Yeah, she's doing great.
So here's the shorter version of everything...

Starter wire grounded out
Replaced Starter Wire
Replaced Alternator & VR
Replaced Alternator again
Replaced VR again (from different store)
Replaced Battery
Found F wire grounding on alternator
Replaced alternator again
Replaced VR again
Tested EVERYTHING
Replaced VR again
Problem fixed

Also somewhere in there replaced the solenoid & starter.

The End...?

 
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Old May 10, 2007 | 06:57 PM
  #148  
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All you need to do now is replace the radiator cap, and it will be all 'rebuilt'.
 
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Old May 10, 2007 | 07:35 PM
  #149  
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and he probably has a few less pine needles stuck behind his dashboard
 
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Old May 10, 2007 | 08:35 PM
  #150  
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Less pine needles, but I probably got tetnis digging around in there...
 
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