400 Charging System Not Functioning - What else could the problem be?
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Posting Guru
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From: Oregon
Well, just ripped out my dash (again), and followed the green/red. It is the wire that I said looked orange/green. That splits off and connects to a small red/yellow wire, which goes to the gauge cluster, and a large red/yellow that goes to the fusebox and another thick orange (red)/green wire that goes back up past the heater controls, and to I don't know where. Can't get past the heater core...
When battery is disconnected, with MM on neg bat and S terminal, it reads battery voltage, with ground strap on battery, MM in same position it reads only 5.4 mV... THis is with no ignition switch installed.
Also, off the subject, what's the large black plastic box attached to the cab behind the gauge cluster? It's about an inch deep, and 4" or 5" squared... Just wondering.
When battery is disconnected, with MM on neg bat and S terminal, it reads battery voltage, with ground strap on battery, MM in same position it reads only 5.4 mV... THis is with no ignition switch installed.
Also, off the subject, what's the large black plastic box attached to the cab behind the gauge cluster? It's about an inch deep, and 4" or 5" squared... Just wondering.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Delaware
I can't help you with your wiring, because I don't have a wiring diagram that matches your truck.
I do wonder if:
You lost the ground to your voltage regulator or:
You miswired the voltage regulator when you first replaced it.
I do wonder if:
You lost the ground to your voltage regulator or:
You miswired the voltage regulator when you first replaced it.
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Oregon
you said the ammeter was disconnected before. Maybe try disconnecting it again and see (with battery connected) if you have voltage at S, with the ignition off.
I'm grasping at straws but it's all I can think of without laying eyes on it.
I'm grasping at straws but it's all I can think of without laying eyes on it.
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by Franklin2
Take your voltmeter, and put the + probe on the + of the battery. Put the neg probe on the case of the regulator. You should get 12 volts. If not, the reg may have a ground problem.
Battery voltage, I was just putting the MM to the battery terminals.
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From: Oregon
Did you ever find the ballast resistor?
Was it a ceramic (rectangular) resistor type or was it a section of resistor wire?
Danlee had conjectured that if it were the second type, it could have overheated and shorted through to another wire in the harness and be feeding power back into the regulator (through the S terminal).
I have a Haynes manual for Lincolns that says something about there being a period in the seventies where this implementation was done poorly and how to reroute a new resistance wire.
Was it a ceramic (rectangular) resistor type or was it a section of resistor wire?
Danlee had conjectured that if it were the second type, it could have overheated and shorted through to another wire in the harness and be feeding power back into the regulator (through the S terminal).
I have a Haynes manual for Lincolns that says something about there being a period in the seventies where this implementation was done poorly and how to reroute a new resistance wire.
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Junior User
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by cj413
What about the electric choke and the wire leading up to it from the stator or voltage regulator. I donno....i've replaced everything too and this seems the only connected piece left that may have shorted.
cj
cj
Assuming you have an ammeter in the dash. If you have an idiot "charge" light, then it also connects to the S terminal of the regulator.
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by grego
Did you ever find the ballast resistor?
Was it a ceramic (rectangular) resistor type or was it a section of resistor wire?
Danlee had conjectured that if it were the second type, it could have overheated and shorted through to another wire in the harness and be feeding power back into the regulator (through the S terminal).
I have a Haynes manual for Lincolns that says something about there being a period in the seventies where this implementation was done poorly and how to reroute a new resistance wire.
Was it a ceramic (rectangular) resistor type or was it a section of resistor wire?
Danlee had conjectured that if it were the second type, it could have overheated and shorted through to another wire in the harness and be feeding power back into the regulator (through the S terminal).
I have a Haynes manual for Lincolns that says something about there being a period in the seventies where this implementation was done poorly and how to reroute a new resistance wire.
I have the next two days off, so I'm spending them on the truck, hopefully some of you folks (mainly the big 3 of Franklin2, Danlee & Grego) will be on here at one time or another.
I'm pulling the dash tomorrow, and I'm going to go back through each and every test, and write down all the info. I'll it all in one post, so nobody has to keep jumping back looking for info.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Delaware
I found a regulator wiring diagram in an old Chiltons manual.
My first question is:
What is the voltage on the 'I' terminal of the regulator with the keyswitch 'OFF' or disconnected?
At The same time measure the voltage at the A+ terminal, the S terminal, and the F terminal.
Measure these with the (-) lead of the meter connected to the battery (-) terminal and the battery ground lead connected.
My first question is:
What is the voltage on the 'I' terminal of the regulator with the keyswitch 'OFF' or disconnected?
At The same time measure the voltage at the A+ terminal, the S terminal, and the F terminal.
Measure these with the (-) lead of the meter connected to the battery (-) terminal and the battery ground lead connected.
Last edited by danlee; May 4, 2007 at 09:01 PM.
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Posting Guru
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From: Oregon
Can't measure the voltage at the I terminal, as it's under the plastic harness. I can try and run jumpers between the harness and the reg pins though...
Not sure what you mean by the A+ terminal...
Not sure what you mean by the A+ terminal...
Last edited by ihateminimumwage; May 4, 2007 at 09:04 PM.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,270
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From: Delaware
According to my schematic, there is a connection from the Alternator output and a terminal marked A+. The schematic that I have is for a vehicle with an idiot light, a vehicle with an Ammeter may be different.
How many pins do you have on the regulator and how are they labeled?
How many pins do you have on the regulator and how are they labeled?