400 Charging System Not Functioning - What else could the problem be?
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by Torque1st
Now you know where to post for the go-to man on electrical problems! It didn't take him long to guide you thru it. Give him some rep points for his help and a high moderator rating!
Just drove to Home Depot to pick up lumber for tommorrow, and my truck actually started up (the last two times I've been there, it's died) and I can listen to my stereo again!
I found out my ammeter in my cluster has been dead this whole time (the one in my 70 was dead too, so I've never seen a working one until now). I hooked up the wire while I was going through everything, so now I can actually keep track of how well it's working.
Cheers all!
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From: Oregon
Alright, well alt is working now, but something is still draining. I woke up yesterday to a completely dead battery that had acid dripping out of it. Took it down to Kragen and it was fried so I exchanged it for a new one. No problems all day, but when I just went out to start it now, the new battery was drained enough for the motor to not crank. So I obviously have a bad ground somewhere.
So, where do I start looking with the multimeter? I did a reading the way grego said before putting the battery on the charger, and I think it said .01 mA (I'll check again before I head out to work...
So, where do I start looking with the multimeter? I did a reading the way grego said before putting the battery on the charger, and I think it said .01 mA (I'll check again before I head out to work...
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From: Oregon
It is best to do the reading with a charged battery. A fully charged car battery should last a very long time with a 10mA drain. You also need to make sure that the side of the meter that you have connected to the chassis ground, is really well connected. You need a really solid ground connection to accurately measure the current. I use a separate test lead that I replaced the point probe with a big-*** clip. You can get the parts (a banana plug, wire and clip) at Radio Shack for a couple of bucks. It is worth having one for car electrical trouble shooting.
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From: Delaware
Originally Posted by ihateminimumwage
If I have a hot wire touching a ground somewhere in the system, would it be giving me the -.06 reading? The negative mark in front of it is what I'm wondering about.
Also, would anything else obviously be screwing up because of the lack of a full ground? Battery to engine ground seems good, no problems with startup or anything.
I also totally forgot to mention, when I first replaced my alternator and voltage regulator, there was a slight burning smell in the cab. Couldn't smell it from the engine compartment, and my passenger couldn't smell it (but he does smoke a lot, so that's not saying much). I got home that night and it seemed to be coming from my side around the instrument cluster area. I just pulled my cluster off, and can't see anything specifically damaged, but would anyone have an idea of what might have been burning up in there?
Also, would anything else obviously be screwing up because of the lack of a full ground? Battery to engine ground seems good, no problems with startup or anything.
I also totally forgot to mention, when I first replaced my alternator and voltage regulator, there was a slight burning smell in the cab. Couldn't smell it from the engine compartment, and my passenger couldn't smell it (but he does smoke a lot, so that's not saying much). I got home that night and it seemed to be coming from my side around the instrument cluster area. I just pulled my cluster off, and can't see anything specifically damaged, but would anyone have an idea of what might have been burning up in there?
Do you have points in you ignition or is it a Duraspark? The short may be intermittent. Closed points could drain a battery if the ballast resistor was shorted out to an 'always hot' wire.
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From: Virginia
Do the test again, but put the meter in the circuit like the diagram below. You can use a testlight like the diagram, or a multi-meter, just make sure you have the meter setup correctly for amps, which usually means moving the leads around on the meter.
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From: Oregon
Alright, just did the test with a light. It was bright. Also, it looks like my charging system is doing something to my battery, as there appears to be fluid coming out of this one now too, and the battery is making a faint sound (like a buzzing).
After I charged the battery this morning, I got the motor started and when I put the DMM to it, it was only readying between like 12.4-12.9v, and went into the high 13v when the engine was revved. Much lower than it was the day the problem was fixed.
Drove the truck all day for work, and unhooked the battery whenever I parked it. No problems there. Just got back. So now I know there's a drain in the system, and my charging system is still being weird. I'm going to pull all the fuses and use the test light right now. I'll post the results...
EDIT: Just went out and checked with the DMM, it's drawing 3.86A...
Just pulled all the fuses, still drawing power. Checked voltage on the battery, and it's at 13.04V (I think it's charging a little TOO well). Going through the engine bay and unplugging everything one at a time, still no change yet...
After I charged the battery this morning, I got the motor started and when I put the DMM to it, it was only readying between like 12.4-12.9v, and went into the high 13v when the engine was revved. Much lower than it was the day the problem was fixed.
Drove the truck all day for work, and unhooked the battery whenever I parked it. No problems there. Just got back. So now I know there's a drain in the system, and my charging system is still being weird. I'm going to pull all the fuses and use the test light right now. I'll post the results...
EDIT: Just went out and checked with the DMM, it's drawing 3.86A...
Just pulled all the fuses, still drawing power. Checked voltage on the battery, and it's at 13.04V (I think it's charging a little TOO well). Going through the engine bay and unplugging everything one at a time, still no change yet...
Last edited by ihateminimumwage; Apr 29, 2007 at 07:53 PM.
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From: Virginia
You are having terrible luck with the new components you bought. The reason I say this is it sounds like one of the diodes is shorted in the alternator. To test this, put the testlight on the battery like the diagram, and then take the wires off the alternator. If the light goes out, then the alternator is your drain, and you will have to take it back under warrenty too.
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From: Oregon
You're always right Dave. Yanked the field wire off, and light went out. Since I already traded the alternator out before, they're going to try and give me hell about changing it out again. Not looking forward to it...
I don't know if it's that my luck is bad, or the NAPA I went to just has crappy parts.
I don't know if it's that my luck is bad, or the NAPA I went to just has crappy parts.
Last edited by ihateminimumwage; Apr 29, 2007 at 09:09 PM.
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From: Oregon
Just replaced the alt, and it's still the same power drain. Pull the F wire off, drain disappears. What else could it be?
I can't keep going to the same shops over and over trading out parts...
I can't keep going to the same shops over and over trading out parts...
Hotshot
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From: Kansas City, KS
Can you visually determine where the "F" wire is going?
EDIT: Duh...sorry. Had to reread the thread...
You might want to replace that piece of wire instead of taping it. How is that tape job holding up?
EDIT: Duh...sorry. Had to reread the thread...
You might want to replace that piece of wire instead of taping it. How is that tape job holding up?
Last edited by tcbofade; Apr 30, 2007 at 02:13 PM.
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From: Oregon
No voltage through the field wire unless the key is in the "on" position. But with battery attached and DMM set between the field post on the alternator, and the field wire to the regulator, there is the usual 3.8A drain.
Tape job seems fine, the wiring isn't damaged, and has power going through it fine (Too much!
). Just runs straight into the F on the voltage regulator, the way it's suppossed to.
Tape job seems fine, the wiring isn't damaged, and has power going through it fine (Too much!
). Just runs straight into the F on the voltage regulator, the way it's suppossed to.
Last edited by ihateminimumwage; Apr 30, 2007 at 03:10 PM.
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From: Virginia
Take your meter and measure the voltage on the "s" terminal of the regulator. You should have nothing there. If you do, then the regulator is being told to come on and that's what is causing the drain. The "s" terminal is hooked to the keyswitch and should be a red/green wire.