Yeah, I understand that.
I'll post this up there if the problem persists. If it's solved already, no point in me starting thread two on the same subject...
Believe me, I hope the problem's fixed!

 

If the problems persist ask an Admin to move the thread for you. That avoids cross posting and keeps all the info in the same place.

 

I'll do just that if it comes down to it.
Now let's stop rambling and filling up this thread!

Cheers back at ya, and hope you're having a good night!
-------------
If anyone still has any good ideas on the problem, please post them...
Thanks!

 

Well, I requested to have this thread moved to the electrical section, but it's still here....

On warranty, I replaced my starter and alternator, still not charging. Replaced the voltage regulator, and haven't had it tested yet (so tired of disappointment). I checked all the wires coming off of the alternator with a circuit tester (the light bulb kind), and they were all fine. I went over the connections in the harness that clips into the VR with a needle file, cleaned them up good.
Haven't run the truck in 2 days, and was going to go grab my paycheck today, so I through it on my charger to see where it was at. It was full when I put it on, and right above medium when I pulled it today.
So apparently my charging system isn't working AND I have something sucking juice when it's just sitting.
This is driving me crazy! What else should I check for?! I don't have the money, but I'm half ready to just take it to a shop and let them deal with it!

 

What'd you hook that cheapo stereo up to?

If you've got a draw with the truck shut off, it shouldn't be all that hard to find.

Keep looking. You'll find it.

 

I just ran down to Kragen and had them test my charging system, it's still not functioning, so at this point, it's obviously something with wiring. Ran up to OSH, and I can't afford $100 for a clamp ammeter...

 

When you shorted your starter cable to the header, you drew current through all of your ground paths. Now you have a nightmare. One of those grounds melted the insulation off the wire and is shorting to a hot circuit somewhere, or worse some diodes in some equipment have shorted.

You will need some expert help, or a good shop to find the problem.

 

One way to find the problem is to disconnect everything that can draw any juice one at a time and check for voltage draw each time. It is slow and painstaking and frustrating but eventually you should find out which direction the juice is going. Process of elimination. It may not be the best way but if you have the patience you could save the cash.

 

Good post twobit. It may take a while, but it seems to me that'd be a good way to save some cash...just spend an afternoon with a multimeter, some nuts and bolts, and perhaps a beer or two...and take your time. It's gotta be there.

 

You need an ammeter in the circuit to look for current drain. A clamp-on ammeter is the easiest to use.

You could use a small resistor in between the battery ground lead and the battery ground terminal. Current flowing through the resistor will produce a voltage that can be measured with a voltmeter. You could pull one fuse at a time until you were drawing no current and had no voltage reading. I would use about 1000 ohms, otherwise the resistor could burn up.

The only problem with that if the short is in the harness, you might not eliminate it with all of the fuses pulled.

 

tcbo suggested a beer or two... don't make it too many or the problem will be harder to find. the clamp ammeter is the best way to go.

 

You can get a DMM (Digital Multi-Meter) at Radio Shack for probably $20 or so. They are really useful to own. If you have one, then set it up for measuring amps (in the 10A range to be safe) and use it in place of the battery ground strap (with everything turned off). Then you will be measuring the actually current draw on the battery.

Disconnect your ground wire to your battery.
Pull all your fuses.
Connect the ground wire of your tester to the chassis and touch the positive tip to the ground terminal of the battery. If it reads above 0, then you have current flowing somewhere. If all the fuses are out and the ignition key is off (like out). Then there is a short somewhere.

If it says zero, then start putting fuses in one at a time and checking the meter. When it shows a number above zero, that is the circuit that is drawing power.

Remember that if you have a clock or station presets in your stereo, they will draw a little power all the time, usually 10-20ma (.01 or so on the 10A scale).

By the way,

DO NOT DO THIS WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING!!!
(I had to say it just in case)

-grego

 

Thanks grego, I do have access to a multimeter, so I'll try that tomorrow! Thanks!

Tomorrow I was just going to call the guy I know at the transmission shop I took my truck to, and ask him for a recommendation on an electrical shop (he steered me to a great shop when I needed a muffler). I'll do a run through with the multimeter tomorrow morning. I'm going to fully unplug the stereo before the test, just to make sure. Thanks again! I'll post the results!

 

While you are at it.
Before you unplug everything, check the voltage on the battery.
If it is charged it should be 12-13v.
Then start the motor and take the same measurement across the battery, it should read 14-15v. It that's the case then the charging system is working.
Hope you find it quickly. I had a partial short on my old Samurai that took me a whole weekend to find

 

That's great info, saves me from driving to Kragen over and over having them check the system. Thanks!