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?? for rear clunk experts

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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 12:18 AM
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?? for rear clunk experts

I've read many clunk threads after using the search engine, but have not found an exact description for MY rear end clunk. I've owned a 1996 4x4 for years and am quite familar with the classic spline torque slippage clunk (or woooonk as I've described it).

So here's MY clunk question. I recently purchased a 2003 SCab, 5.4L, tow package with limited slip rearend and about 55K miles. My clunk ONLY occurs on stopping. No clunk on take-off. Drivetrain feels solid throughout acceleration/deceleration. Again there's a single clunk once I come to a complete stop while braking. I can also feel the clunk in the truck, sorta like a a pin hitched trailer will feel if the brakes were applied suddenly. It's sometimes intermittent and seems to be most severe with hard braking. All spline related clunks I've read about (and experience with my '96) are predominately on take-off.

Any ideas??? Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 12:36 AM
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My 02 4x4 exticab lariat has always had a clunk, I took to 3 seperate dealerships and they said it was normal in the 4x4 models due to transfer case tranny and rearend..my truck I bought new in 2001 had only 15 miles on it straight outa the plant..it did it and still does, its no better no worse, I would let a good dealership drive it, I now have 75,000 mls and when I stop it will clunk just like new, its like backlash somewhere, It worried me till I had it checked out and Ive even seen a few ford bullitons on the issue stateing with the 4x4 model F150 you might feel a clunk when you stop and a clunk when you take off, it is kinda aggrivateing, I keep thinking theres to much play somewhere, does anyone know what the cause is...exactly..I even had a few dealerships sighn off on it stateing if something tore up they would fixx it under warranty...But so far so good..
 
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 12:52 AM
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Thanks liquid 1, but what's unique is never a take-off clunk...only after coming to a complete stop upon braking. Also, this 03 truck is a 2x4.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 08:52 AM
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Humm could it be a caliper sticking or loosen up..I would find a lift and check the drive train out..keep us posted
 
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 11:11 AM
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if you could jack the rear end up and do some power braking and pry bar testing, you may find something loose, or just be able to listen and pinpoint where the noise is coming from.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 11:21 AM
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I'm also thinking maybe caliper, my civic is doing it right now...new pads and rotors next week, if that doesn't fix it, new calipers.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 11:27 AM
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Talking Clunk

The driveline clunks of the past that were associated with either start up or upon stopping may be due to the spline as we all know. It acctually occurs due to rear axle assembly rotation cause by acceleration or braking, the rear assembly rotates (wants to) due to the application of torque from either the engine application of power or the forces due to braking, it clunks on braking when the torque application ceases ( vehicle stops) and the componets seek a place to rest.

I have also known the transmission to be the source of the clunk on braking, the trans, wants to shift down to comply to the messages from the govenor, one of the accumulators is not releasing quickly enough for the rate of decelleration, and it causes a "clunk" to be heard. The cure is to check and see if you can dertermine the gear it is happening in IE: 4 to 3, check the alignment of the orifice in the case and the accumulators supply hole. When fluid fails to drain rapidly enough, it hangs in 3, until almost stopped, then downshifts to 1 suddenly; and is felt as a mysterious "clunk".
 
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 04:20 PM
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Pull the rear rotor(s) and check the emergency brake shoes.

My 2001 SCrew 4x4 was doing the same thing and it turned out that the left rear emergency brake shoes had come apart and were sticking intermittently.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by barnettdh
Pull the rear rotor(s) and check the emergency brake shoes.

My 2001 SCrew 4x4 was doing the same thing and it turned out that the left rear emergency brake shoes had come apart and were sticking intermittently.
so did mine, so Cole Muffler and Brake took them off....sometimes i hate not having a parking brake.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 10:28 PM
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I've still got the right side working. It happened not long after I bought it in the middle of winter.

I had Midas button up the left side when they found the problem because I wasn't going to pay them $78 per side for shoes, plus labor, when I could do it myself in the summer.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2007 | 10:40 PM
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Great feedback. Thanks. I have a brake job planned soon and will check items mentioned. I hope it is in the braking system only. If I find an emergency brake problen, is that something a weekend mechanic can do or, as my Dad says "sounds like you need to call the man" kind of repair.

66f25red, the clunk only occurs once the truck comes to rest. No noise during braking/deceleration, only once stopped. So hopefully not a tranny issue.

The clunk intensity and occurance does seem somewhat dependent on rate of decelaration (how fast I run up on a stop sign).

Thanks all.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Beanpod
I have a brake job planned soon and will check items mentioned. I hope it is in the braking system only. If I find an emergency brake problen, is that something a weekend mechanic can do or, as my Dad says "sounds like you need to call the man" kind of repair.
Checking the emergency brakes is not part of Midas' routine inspection. I took it in because I could hear brakes scraping and in one case, saw smoke and smelled brake material burning around the left rear wheel. This was in addition to the intermittent clunk on braking. If I hadn't insisted there was something else wrong, I would have never found the problem.

The problem was that the pads had disintigrated and come completely off the shoes. The chunks of pad were getting periodically stuck between the inside of the hub and the shoes, causing the scraping, burning, and clunk. Then they'd break loose and it would be fine for awhile.

I understand that the rear rotor & drum combination can be tough to get off -- Midas charged me a 1/2 labor anticipating this, because the lip of the drum can build up rust and require some serious persuasion. However, it took their guy less than 5 minutes to pull it off.

I think if you can do a regular brake job, you can do this work.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2007 | 10:43 PM
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Thanks again. I have a farm shop with tools necessary to work on rusted equipment. Used carefully, an air-hammer can work wonders with rust siezed parts. I'll let you know what I find when I get to it.
 
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