?? for rear clunk experts
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: eastern NC
?? for rear clunk experts
I've read many clunk threads after using the search engine, but have not found an exact description for MY rear end clunk. I've owned a 1996 4x4 for years and am quite familar with the classic spline torque slippage clunk (or woooonk as I've described it).
So here's MY clunk question. I recently purchased a 2003 SCab, 5.4L, tow package with limited slip rearend and about 55K miles. My clunk ONLY occurs on stopping. No clunk on take-off. Drivetrain feels solid throughout acceleration/deceleration. Again there's a single clunk once I come to a complete stop while braking. I can also feel the clunk in the truck, sorta like a a pin hitched trailer will feel if the brakes were applied suddenly. It's sometimes intermittent and seems to be most severe with hard braking. All spline related clunks I've read about (and experience with my '96) are predominately on take-off.
Any ideas??? Thanks in advance.
So here's MY clunk question. I recently purchased a 2003 SCab, 5.4L, tow package with limited slip rearend and about 55K miles. My clunk ONLY occurs on stopping. No clunk on take-off. Drivetrain feels solid throughout acceleration/deceleration. Again there's a single clunk once I come to a complete stop while braking. I can also feel the clunk in the truck, sorta like a a pin hitched trailer will feel if the brakes were applied suddenly. It's sometimes intermittent and seems to be most severe with hard braking. All spline related clunks I've read about (and experience with my '96) are predominately on take-off.
Any ideas??? Thanks in advance.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 425
Likes: 0
My 02 4x4 exticab lariat has always had a clunk, I took to 3 seperate dealerships and they said it was normal in the 4x4 models due to transfer case tranny and rearend..my truck I bought new in 2001 had only 15 miles on it straight outa the plant..it did it and still does, its no better no worse, I would let a good dealership drive it, I now have 75,000 mls and when I stop it will clunk just like new, its like backlash somewhere, It worried me till I had it checked out and Ive even seen a few ford bullitons on the issue stateing with the 4x4 model F150 you might feel a clunk when you stop and a clunk when you take off, it is kinda aggrivateing, I keep thinking theres to much play somewhere, does anyone know what the cause is...exactly..I even had a few dealerships sighn off on it stateing if something tore up they would fixx it under warranty...But so far so good..
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
From: San Jose , ca
Clunk
The driveline clunks of the past that were associated with either start up or upon stopping may be due to the spline as we all know. It acctually occurs due to rear axle assembly rotation cause by acceleration or braking, the rear assembly rotates (wants to) due to the application of torque from either the engine application of power or the forces due to braking, it clunks on braking when the torque application ceases ( vehicle stops) and the componets seek a place to rest.
I have also known the transmission to be the source of the clunk on braking, the trans, wants to shift down to comply to the messages from the govenor, one of the accumulators is not releasing quickly enough for the rate of decelleration, and it causes a "clunk" to be heard. The cure is to check and see if you can dertermine the gear it is happening in IE: 4 to 3, check the alignment of the orifice in the case and the accumulators supply hole. When fluid fails to drain rapidly enough, it hangs in 3, until almost stopped, then downshifts to 1 suddenly; and is felt as a mysterious "clunk".
I have also known the transmission to be the source of the clunk on braking, the trans, wants to shift down to comply to the messages from the govenor, one of the accumulators is not releasing quickly enough for the rate of decelleration, and it causes a "clunk" to be heard. The cure is to check and see if you can dertermine the gear it is happening in IE: 4 to 3, check the alignment of the orifice in the case and the accumulators supply hole. When fluid fails to drain rapidly enough, it hangs in 3, until almost stopped, then downshifts to 1 suddenly; and is felt as a mysterious "clunk".
Trending Topics
New User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Pull the rear rotor(s) and check the emergency brake shoes.
My 2001 SCrew 4x4 was doing the same thing and it turned out that the left rear emergency brake shoes had come apart and were sticking intermittently.
My 2001 SCrew 4x4 was doing the same thing and it turned out that the left rear emergency brake shoes had come apart and were sticking intermittently.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,489
Likes: 45
From: Central NY
Originally Posted by barnettdh
Pull the rear rotor(s) and check the emergency brake shoes.
My 2001 SCrew 4x4 was doing the same thing and it turned out that the left rear emergency brake shoes had come apart and were sticking intermittently.
My 2001 SCrew 4x4 was doing the same thing and it turned out that the left rear emergency brake shoes had come apart and were sticking intermittently.
New User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
I've still got the right side working. It happened not long after I bought it in the middle of winter.
I had Midas button up the left side when they found the problem because I wasn't going to pay them $78 per side for shoes, plus labor, when I could do it myself in the summer.
I had Midas button up the left side when they found the problem because I wasn't going to pay them $78 per side for shoes, plus labor, when I could do it myself in the summer.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: eastern NC
Great feedback. Thanks. I have a brake job planned soon and will check items mentioned. I hope it is in the braking system only. If I find an emergency brake problen, is that something a weekend mechanic can do or, as my Dad says "sounds like you need to call the man" kind of repair.
66f25red, the clunk only occurs once the truck comes to rest. No noise during braking/deceleration, only once stopped. So hopefully not a tranny issue.
The clunk intensity and occurance does seem somewhat dependent on rate of decelaration (how fast I run up on a stop sign).
Thanks all.
66f25red, the clunk only occurs once the truck comes to rest. No noise during braking/deceleration, only once stopped. So hopefully not a tranny issue.
The clunk intensity and occurance does seem somewhat dependent on rate of decelaration (how fast I run up on a stop sign).
Thanks all.
New User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Beanpod
I have a brake job planned soon and will check items mentioned. I hope it is in the braking system only. If I find an emergency brake problen, is that something a weekend mechanic can do or, as my Dad says "sounds like you need to call the man" kind of repair.
The problem was that the pads had disintigrated and come completely off the shoes. The chunks of pad were getting periodically stuck between the inside of the hub and the shoes, causing the scraping, burning, and clunk. Then they'd break loose and it would be fine for awhile.
I understand that the rear rotor & drum combination can be tough to get off -- Midas charged me a 1/2 labor anticipating this, because the lip of the drum can build up rust and require some serious persuasion. However, it took their guy less than 5 minutes to pull it off.
I think if you can do a regular brake job, you can do this work.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: eastern NC
Thanks again. I have a farm shop with tools necessary to work on rusted equipment. Used carefully, an air-hammer can work wonders with rust siezed parts. I'll let you know what I find when I get to it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
scottjima
1999 - 2016 Super Duty
229
Jan 15, 2018 09:33 PM