i don`t have a manual, can somone please walk me thru the valve adjustment proses on a 3.0 .. the motor is on a engine stand.. can i adjust the valves on a cold motor?? ... i can`t warm up or start the motor wile it is on the stand and i would like to adjust the valve train before installing the motor in the van.......

 

There is no valve adjustment on the Aerostars that I know of.

 

COPPER ....... are you saying the valves are self adjusting???... doesn`t the book at least have a recommended torq foot lb settng or a feeler guage setting for the valve train?? .. ..

 

On the Aerostars, the only thing you can do is to put the pushrods in and bolt the rocker arm in place. There is nothing to adjust. The torque on the rocker arm bolts is 19-28 ft-lbs.

 

Set engine at tdc on #1 cyl and with lifters bled down, check valves; intake 1,3,6 exhaust;1,2,4. Rotate engine crankshaft 360 degrees and check intake 2,4,5 and exhaust 3,5,6. Valve stem to rocker arm clearance should be .088 to .189 inches(2.23-4.77mm.
I'm quoting from Haynes manual for Aerostar 3.0 engine

 

Actually the valves are self adjusting. That is what hydraulic valve lifters do.

Ken

 

roller hydralics....NO adjustment
use lots of assembly lube on cam and lifters. GM makes a good one EOS....

use a quality breakin oil with lots of antiwear such at Delo 400 15w40, Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5w30 5w40, or Redline 5w30...need the extra anti wear AW that the newest EPA junk oils that are SM rated do NOT have.
or put in 8 ounces of GM EOS in crankcase oil

 

I haven't done this on recent Aerostars, but the earlier Cologne engines had a threaded socket on the end of the rocker arm for the push rod to rest in. Similarly, early small block Fords with hydro bump sticks have sort of a rough adjustment on the rocker studs that don't have a positive stop shoulder. Hydraulic lifters can only compensate for a small range of lash differences.

What's worked for me was to turn the engine so that the valves of the cylinder I want to work on is closed (lifter on base circle). Then try to move the pushrod up and down between the lifter and rocker arm. If there is any gap at all, I tighten down whatever adjustment mechanism until the gap is taken up. I can usually feel if I'm pressing too hard against the cup in the lifter; on an empty lifter, its spring will compress, so I avoid that. That usually brings the adjustment in close enough that the hydraulic lifter can compensate for any minor differences, hot or cold.

If there are no adjustment mechanisms at all, then you need to get shims for the rocker arm shaft or studs, or find the right length pushords to get initial lash close. If you're re-using original parts, and you didn't heavily mill your heads or block, they should come close enough.