How do i adjust valves?

 

If they are adjustable, then it's pretty simple.

Roll motor over so that your TDC compression stroke for cylinder you want to adjust. This will place both valves CLOSED. Pull plugs so it's easier to turn motor over, then you can look at piston and cofirm TDC using pencil in hole(don't break it off). You can roll motor using breaker bar and feel pencil as it just stops at top. Anyhow....Using feeler gauge, check each rocker at valve stem. Not sure what the spec for your motor, but somewhere in the .022 range would get you close for the most part. Do each cylinder the same way.

If you don't have adjustable rockers, then it's a moot point as you can't change anything.

 

can i install adjustable rockers. it is pretty loud!

 

what else could be causing it. they all seem to be making the noise

 

Then you have issues. I see you have a post going about lengths. Someone might have put the wrong ones in it. Adjustables are easy to install, just have to buy a set(off ebay?). This would eliminate alot of issues.

All hydraulics need preload(about .060), so if you don't have that, then they will TICK.

 

If you can't tell i'm pretty new to all this. I understand the motor concept, just don't have the experience. How do I tell which rods need to be changed. I changed the rods on the 1-4 bank to the next size up, and they are still ticking like crazy! From what i know, if they were to long, i would float the valves and it would be missing. i don't have that happening.

Should i be able to push down on a lifter after the engine has been sitting all night. I had two that i could not push on, all the others move with just a little push.

 

I have tried pushing down on the push rods while running to see if it quiets it at all, nothing. I put on the 360 rockers, just because i'm at a loss, and i know that they worked fine, still nothing. How fast should the push rods be turning? some are spinning fast, others are slow. Any ideas?

 

You put in what? 360 rocker arms?

Uh..360 rocker arms are the same as: 352/390/410/428 rockers arms.

The exact same one was used 1958 thru 1976.

B8AZ-6564-C .. Rocker Arm-non adjustable

B8AZ-6563-AX .. Authorized FoMoCo Remanufactured Rocker Assembly > >

Came with (non adjustable) rocker arms, rocker shaft, towers, springs, the whole tamale = fits 'em all: 1958/76.

 

numberdummy after your last post about push rod lenth i went back to my offhighway parts book and looked up why with the same deck height that push rods would be diffrent lenths, it said that two diffrent ratio rockers were used 1.73 and 1.76 and yes they will bolt to any fe.


reifwj since you are going to all this work why don't just buy a full set of new pushrods and adj rockerarms and go from there. You have sill not told us if you have a stock motor or a rebuilt motor. I would also change parts as a hole not just one side.

 

Off Highway = HiPo related parts used in drag racing and in NASCAR, etc.

The info I typed inre to the pushrods came directly from the 1964/72 & 1973/79 Ford Truck Parts Catalogs & the 1965/72 Ford Passenger Car Parts Catalog.

Only two FE rocker arms are listed in Ford Parts Catalogs from 1958 thru 1976. Note: B8AZ-6564-B replaced B8A-6564-B / B8AZ-6564-C replaced B8A-6564-C. The parts are the same, FoMoCo added the Z's to the part numbers prefix in 1960.

B8AZ-6564-C non adjustable Rocker Arm, and...

B8AZ-6564-B adjustable rocker arm which was used on some 1958/60 cars with 332 & 352's, Hipo 352's 1961/62, HiPo 390 engines 1961 thru 1969, P/C 390 engines 1961 thru 1965, 1962/64 406's, 1964/67 427's (1968-non adjustable), and 1966 428 P/C's (P/C = Police Cruiser).

The adjustable rocker arms and its related parts were not factory installed in 1965/76 F100/350's with FE engines. Only the non adjustable type is listed for these models.

360 engines were used in 1968/76 F100/350's only, the 360 was not used in anything else.

More info sources besides those listed above: 1949/59 & 1960/64 Passenger Car Parts Catalogs.

I'm only the messenger, I read and type my info direct from Ford Parts Catalogs, the exact same ones used by the dealers. I used these same parts catalogs from 1962 thru 1997..on the job.

 

It's a stock engine, the only reason i changed one bank is because that is all they had at napa, and the rest will come in this morning. since it is ok to run different rods on different valves, i figured if the longer ones floated my valves, I would spend half the money.

How fast should the push rods be turning? should i be able to push down on the lifter when the motor has been warmed or if it is still cold?

 

Ok, lifter preload is about .060, which means the pushrod is pushed INTO the lifter about 1/16". To answer your question, YES you should be able to push the pushrod DOWN after shutting it off, as you'll still have a bit of oil pressure still in the lifter itself. If you can't push it down, then likely it's too long and bottomed out already. This would cause valves to hang open and motor would likely run rough(and other things too). The pushrods will just slowly rotate as motor runs, as the lifters are meant to rotate on the camshaft to eliminate wear on just one spot. As long as they DO turn, they're fine as there is no actual RPM to worry about there.

You need to do some checking. First rotate the motor til #1 piston is up at to top(remove valve covers, distributor cap and spark plug in #1). Rotate motor til rotor is putting to #1 spark plug and look to see if piston is at the top. There is a timing mark that you can watch come around and line up with pointer on crankshaft. Once you get it at Top Dead Center, BOTH valves will be closed. Now, you need to see what kind of preload is on the lifters. Grab the pushrods for #1 cylinder and wiggle them. they should be snug in place, though be able to turn them. If they are loose and sloppy up/down then there are issues.

We need to get some guidelines on what's going on to be able to help you get this problem fixed. It's pretty difficult over the internet to diagnose engine problems. Even harder when you're trying to teach someone how it all works too. We'll do what we can.

 

Just hope to God it isn't low oil pressure!

 

My off highway parts book does not only list hi po parts but also stock parts and interchangablity. All I wrote was what it said not to say that you are wrong, I'm now trying to figure out why the book says there were two difftent ratio of rocker arms.

 

How did this problem start? Lifters don't usually become noisy for no reason on a completely stock motor, something else probably had to contribute to the problem. Hydraulic lifters really shouldn't need adjustment as you've described this motor.

Does the motor have adequate oil pressure, and is it clean inside? I hate to hear you're spending money on it with no improvement.