352 ('65) - Valve seals replacement
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New User
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Colorado Springs
352 ('65) - Valve seals replacement
Hi all!
Well, I need to replace the valve seals (as mentioned above) and was wondering what I need to look for. This is the first time I have ever worked on an FE motor. Past experience is with a 351 Windsor.
In addition to any insight you might provide, I have some questions.
1) Are the valves adjustable or fixed (with a shoulder)? My 351 was adjustable, but I hear some fords have non-adjustables.
2) Can I do the seal replacement from up-top (without removing heads) like I could with my 351?
Thanks in advance!
Well, I need to replace the valve seals (as mentioned above) and was wondering what I need to look for. This is the first time I have ever worked on an FE motor. Past experience is with a 351 Windsor.
In addition to any insight you might provide, I have some questions.
1) Are the valves adjustable or fixed (with a shoulder)? My 351 was adjustable, but I hear some fords have non-adjustables.
2) Can I do the seal replacement from up-top (without removing heads) like I could with my 351?
Thanks in advance!
New User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 17
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i assume on your first question you mean rocker arms. They are non-adjustable and are mounted on a shaft rather than a stud like the 351. However some FE motors did have adjustable rocker arms but these had solid lifter cams too. The 427 had adjustable set ups and I think the hi po 390 did too. for your second question, yes you can replace your valve seals without removing your heads. But, you have to remove the valvesprings. They make tools for valvespring removal with the head still on and you will have to figure out how to keep the valve in place when you remove them. They make a tool for that too. The last one I seen was set up to do both at the same time. I've never actually had good luck with valve seals. They never stay on for me. I use the regular rubber slip on type but I think there are seals that are threaded. You have to machine the valve guide to accept these type.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,447
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From: Littleton, CO
Sorry for the late response, but...
You can replace the "umbrella" type seals on the FE without removing the heads. The best method is to drop the piston and fill the hole with large amounts of rope the same width of the spark plug hole. Bring the piston up n the bore and it should stop. This will tell you that the valve should be supported. When you compress the springs on the valve witht eh removing tool, you will be able to tell if the valve is supported well enough to finish spring removal. The "umbrella" seals basically fit over the valve and the "stem" on the head.
Pretty simple process, replaced one side of the motor one evening and the second side the next (time constraints of course).
Good luck
--Mike
You can replace the "umbrella" type seals on the FE without removing the heads. The best method is to drop the piston and fill the hole with large amounts of rope the same width of the spark plug hole. Bring the piston up n the bore and it should stop. This will tell you that the valve should be supported. When you compress the springs on the valve witht eh removing tool, you will be able to tell if the valve is supported well enough to finish spring removal. The "umbrella" seals basically fit over the valve and the "stem" on the head.
Pretty simple process, replaced one side of the motor one evening and the second side the next (time constraints of course).
Good luck
--Mike
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 908
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People say use rope or compressed air, but I've never used either. Putting the piston at TDC will hold the valve up. You do have to grip the tip of the valve with needle nose pliers to pull it up enough to get the keeper on. When I get the valve up, lateral pressure against it is enough to hold it up while I install the spring and keeper.
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New User
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Colorado Springs
Well, I think I am going to have to settle for a 12 pack of Dew... hehe, thx for the tips guys.
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New User
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Colorado Springs
Well, I finally got around to getting the Valve seals replaced... was easy enough once I got over the shock of seeing my first rocker-bar head... However, the smoke is still coming... Should I expect results immediately, or does it take awhile for the oil to burn out of the cylinders?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
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From: Iowa
The oil should burn out within 5 minutes. Do you have a lot of miles on the motor? If so, some may be getting by the rings. Not common on an FE ford, but I suppose with enough miles anything can happen.
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