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I've got a "new to me" 1988 Bronco Eddie Bauer. Neither of the front power windows work. I've done manual windows before, but never power. I read my Chilton manual and it tells me how to replace it, but it's not too descriptive. I'll need to check and make sure it's the motor and not the switch. I'll do that using a ohm/voltameter. I haven't seen the wires yet, but I'm sure it has a ground and power going to it to check the voltage. I've seen the window motors for around $70 each as well. Any place cheaper?
The manual mentions having to drill holes in order to get to the bolts, which seems strange, and I remember how cramped it was working on a manual window. I'm wondering if anyone has done this before and if there is somewhere that has a more descriptive(pics?) walk through of the procedure. Is there a website that has fix-it-yourself posts? If not, could someone let me know how involved this might be. I'm not a big fan of electical stuff. I'd much rather work on something mechanical.
You might try a search, I'm sure it's been discussed on this forum before. But yes, you'll need to drill out some little dimples in the door to get to the bolts for the window motor (***-uming the window motor(s) is/are your problem). I wouldn't say it's cramped really, it's pretty easy. Once you pull the door panel it'll be pretty clear, the dimples are already there so you know where to drill, you'll need at least a 1/2" bit.
IIRC I paid around $50 for a rebuilt motor w/lifetime warranty at Checker. Generally I'm not a fan of rebuilds (warranty or no) but for a non-critical component like this it's ok. The window motor's worked great for about 2 years.
I just did my passenger window this last weekend. It's really not that hard. What you might want to check the switch first and then get the motor out. Once you get the motor out, hook the power back up to the motor and look at the plastic gear inside. The gear may be chewed up, but turn on the power to the window to see if the gear will move. If the gear moves, but is just chewed up, then go to NAPA and buy a replacement gear. It was $27 at the store near me. My problem was actually the motor. It cost me $58 from Napa. I just had 4 bolts holding mine in. Getting them out was easy, getting back in was a little tight, but it will go in. For two of the bolts, I had to put a small piece of electrical tape on the back of my open end wrench to hold the nut while getting it inside of the door. Once it was tight, I just pulled the wrench out and the tape came along with it. No problem.
Is there a connector close to where the motor is mounted, and if so will i be able to check the voltage from black/red wires when I activate the switch in order to make sure it's the motor instead of the wiring/switch? Is there a good way to check the switch? Ohm meter probably, but not sure where to put it.
I haven't actually gotten in there to check it out, so i'm going by what I know about electronics(very little) and have read.
There is about a 6" pigtail with a plug on the end that comes out of the bottom motor.
Hook up the meter to the end that is tied into the swith and hit the power to the swith. If you're not getting 12 volts there, then the switch is bad. Now that I'm typing this, I just thought of the most obvious thing. You mentioned in your original post that both windows are out. Have you checked the fuse yet?
Totally forgot about that! I haven't worked on a car with power windows and didn't even think about the fuse being there as it is with the rest of the electronics. I'll check it. I meant to ask the previous owner if both went out at the same time, which would obviously mean something other than the motors(unless a huge coincidence). I bought it from a friend of my sisters and I'll ask him if the fuse is fine.
As you have heard, it is pretty easy replacing the motor. I did it and found out it was just the electrical brushes. If you can find replacements that is the cheapest way to go. I couldn't so I went to the local junk yard and got one (motor) for $32. If you do that make sure they give you the correct side (I specified driver side, got passenger and had to do a housing swap)Regradless of what you do...it's nice having a working window...especially going through the drive through
[link:www.off-road.com/ford/bigbroncos/tech/window-fix.html|Here] is a link to a tailgate gear repair article. BTW the tail gate and passenger window motor are the same on my '85
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