convert to power windows
convert to power windows
So my van has manual windows probably cuz its a commercial truck. Would it be a wiring nightmare to convert to power windows?
Obviously I'd have to grab the guts and door wires and parts, but what about where the wires would go to? Have you done this before?
I really hate the 15 to 20 cranks to get the window down. I'm sure I could jimmy rig it but, you know.
Obviously I'd have to grab the guts and door wires and parts, but what about where the wires would go to? Have you done this before?
I really hate the 15 to 20 cranks to get the window down. I'm sure I could jimmy rig it but, you know.
Back when lowered trucks were in, i had a place install an aftermarket power window kit in along with a sunroof...knocked it out, and was clean. You could tell though, that the switch3es were not factory ones, but had power windows
I'm actually in the process of finishing up this project on my truck. At first I thought all I needed were the power window motors, power lock actuators, interior door panels, power window and lock switches and wiring that went into the left hand doors and behind the dash across to the right side of the truck.
Not Quite. You'll also need a GEM Module, under dash fuse panel, engine compartment fuse panel, the remainder of the rest of the interior wiring harness that passes through the firewall and the entire engine compartment harness. All coming out of a donor truck with the power windows, locks, 4x4 or 4x2 and other amenities you're going to have in your truck in the end. The GEM module will have to be reprogrammed before things in your truck work correctly even though it came from a truck with the setup you have. That's where I'm at with it right now. Hopefully will have GEM re-programmed next week.
Let me say that I will never, ever take on a project like this again. I do have to admit though that I am very glad to now have power windows, locks, overhead trip computer, and cab lights. The amount of work you have to go through is enormous and you need to be incredibly patient. It's also very rewarding when you stand back and look at all the work that went into it when you're done.
The hardest thing may be to find a harness that will be compatible with your truck and the setup you want it to have in the end.
Good luck if you decide to do this. I'd be happy to answer any questions if you decide to go down this path.
Drake
Not Quite. You'll also need a GEM Module, under dash fuse panel, engine compartment fuse panel, the remainder of the rest of the interior wiring harness that passes through the firewall and the entire engine compartment harness. All coming out of a donor truck with the power windows, locks, 4x4 or 4x2 and other amenities you're going to have in your truck in the end. The GEM module will have to be reprogrammed before things in your truck work correctly even though it came from a truck with the setup you have. That's where I'm at with it right now. Hopefully will have GEM re-programmed next week.
Let me say that I will never, ever take on a project like this again. I do have to admit though that I am very glad to now have power windows, locks, overhead trip computer, and cab lights. The amount of work you have to go through is enormous and you need to be incredibly patient. It's also very rewarding when you stand back and look at all the work that went into it when you're done.
The hardest thing may be to find a harness that will be compatible with your truck and the setup you want it to have in the end.
Good luck if you decide to do this. I'd be happy to answer any questions if you decide to go down this path.
Drake
cutlass, sounds like you went OEM.
OP, go with an aftermarket set up.... after all, all you need is 12V to run a motor to push the window up and down... dont need fancy computers and all that jazz
OP, go with an aftermarket set up.... after all, all you need is 12V to run a motor to push the window up and down... dont need fancy computers and all that jazz
Thats funny, sad part is that it isn't a bad idea except for the length of the drill itself. But needless to say, I would do it a different way.
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AWESOME!!! LOL
I was wondering about power locks too. i hate my manual ones. especially when i have to reach over every day to let the passenger in constantly. Hmmm maybe i should just give him a key. lol but thats not the point.
i dont know about power locks, i think we have cabels and not rods for activators. it maybe harder to get them to work.i have a set i was going to put in my focus but i dont know how to get them to work.it mite be worth it to remove your door panel and have a look
Cutlass, that's interesting that you had to go to such extremes to get yours to work. I converted my XL to power windows this spring and didn't need to reflash the GEM or anything. I did use factory regulators, door harnesses, switches and panels from a donor set of doors that Papadelogin found for me. Then I used the power window/lock wiring diagram from Woodanthings web site. I was able to tie into the factory 30 amp circuit breaker and then made my own harness from one side of the cab to the other. It works exactly like factory, except I don't have the "auto down".
It wasn't that hard, one day installing the regs and motors and another weekend running the wires. all this was done in a county campground.
Barney
It wasn't that hard, one day installing the regs and motors and another weekend running the wires. all this was done in a county campground.
Barney
Our locks are controlled with rods. factory actuators are installed on to the latch mechanism. they are know for failure and expensive to replace. there is a good thread about a "fix" for the weak actuator on here somewhere.
Barney
Barney
Greetings. In 2006 I bought an AutoLoc power window kit and had it installed buy a accessory shop her in KC. They charged me almost $400 to put them in. They were real slow and broke a few times,would hardly raise the windows.
This year I found some factory power regulators for $75.
I took the manual regulators and the AutoLoc's out, put in the factory's using the existing wiring and ... THEY WORKED GREAT!!
This year I found some factory power regulators for $75.
I took the manual regulators and the AutoLoc's out, put in the factory's using the existing wiring and ... THEY WORKED GREAT!!




