I like their applications here....wish i put it on the civic BEFORE she started rusting....damage control this summer

http://www.rustbullet.com/Products/A...Automotive.htm

 

I have sprayed many thing with Rustoleum clear. Cheap and decent quality. I did try a number of Eastwood products working on older cars and then went back to the Rustoleum.

 

tbm3fan's description is a very good one and a good test. I definatlely think you can't go wrong with POR 15. Biggest thing is metal prep. I think what people look for is stuff that can be painted DIRECTLY over Rust and not have to do anything but wire brush the loose particles off. I have read threads that people were not impressed with POR 15 being painted directly over rust like they claim, but I havne't used it, so I can't give any good or bad advice. I sandblast most of what I can before I paint something since it is the best prep you can do, but I have used chassis saver on a couple of rusted chassis parts to see how well it bonded and I was impressed. I'm not impressed with the UV sensitive black though, But I shouldn't have a problem since the chassis doesn't see sunlight. I guess time will tell. I think what it boils down to, is in order to get the best of a product, people should sandblast their chassis and then put two to three coats of the product on. With the products that were stated, I don't think that one is more or less inferior to the other based on specifications. I am going to try Rust Bullets Black next because it claims to be UV resistant unlike chassis saver I used.

 

the most important thing with por and eastmans stuff is that all scale rust is removed...you CAN effectively paint right over rust that has been converted as it's no longer rust. The problem with scale is that the treatment/converter does not get the rust under the scale and then it's not directly coated by the paint as it's again hiding under the scale.

If you get rid of the scale, clean and treat the rust...you will be able to effectively apply por and other similar products without further prep. And that is a very, very good thing.

POR 15 is made to apply directly over converted rust...that is the best possible surface on which to apply that product.

 

i painted my 72 f100 frame with some tractor supply implement paint ...it looks pretty good ... $19 a gallon

 

So very true in that all rust that can be chipped away is removed. It took me two Sundays to hammer and chisel off the hugh flakes of rust around the pelorus base in order to get down to something solid with each hit of the chisel.

 

If you can....sandblast it. if you can't, get an electric grinder with a wire wheel and go around the chassis. You don't have to get down the bare metal, just get the superfical rust off.

 

u can pressure wash it to ....thats wat i did ...and it was reallllll clean

 

i'm going to sandblast it first then wire brush it with my disc grinder.I talked to a por 15 rep and he said that f i were to do that and then use their metal prep that the clearcoat would have no problem sticking to the bare metal and it would be rock hard. so i don't have to worry about salt water or rocks chipping it and creating rust. I'l keep you updated on the progrssion of my work. i will sandblast,brush, prep, and paint this weekend.Thanks guys

 

If your already using your grinder to get it down to bare metal, you wouldn't have to sandblast it. That would just be an extra step, but by blasting it might save you time from just grinding it. I know it's a lot of work, but maybe get some sandpaper, start with something like 400 grit and work your way up to about 800 or so on the sides to smoothen it out to give you a nice smooth finish. I'm not sure what how the POR 15 clear coat will fill in the scratches your wire wheel will leave. You would only have to sand down the sides where people will see the most. Just a thought. Post some pics with your progression.I'm curious to see how it turns out. You can look at my gallery to see how my silver paint turned out on my chassis.

 

the silver paint came out awesome. The reason for sandblasting is that the wire wheel doesn't clean the pours very well. i still have alot of black circles. Sandblasting it is trial and error, if it cleans everything, good, but if not, at least i tried and didn't spend alot of money have someone else do it. also the 60+ hours i would have to put in to get it down with the wire wheel is to much.( i run a 35 stall horse barn and work 40+ hours a week painting) I think to fill in the holes and scratches i am going to apply a second coat about 5 days after the first. I will post pics next week .

 

Sandblasting will definately get your chassis clean. And ya...it will do a better job getting all those crackes and crevices. It took me roughly an hour or so to sandblast my chassis. I did have an industrial blaster, but even a small blaster will do the trick, just will take longer. You really can't screw anything up trying out your blaster.