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Old Mar 13, 2007 | 05:29 PM
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chassis paint

i have been cleaning my frame to bare metal and i really like the look of it. my question to you is, are there any ways that i can use a clear coat or poly to keep the metal look of the frame or am i better off just priming and painting. It would be cheaper than chroming and kinda have the same effect. i am really just curious to know if the clear will coat the frame, stick, and be kinda resistant to chipping. i am willing to put 20 coats if thats what i need to do.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2007 | 05:46 PM
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Sorry, don't think it will work. Clear requires 21 coats

Actually, I don't know if the clear would stick without primer, but it sure would look cool
 
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 05:45 PM
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Not a very good idea. The clear will chip and then bare metal will be exposed. This will lead to rust and pitting since there is no primer to slow the process. Normally when there is a primer/sealer, only surface rust developes over time on thicker metal like the frame. If the clear chips and moisture gets to it then pitting is almost inevitable unless treated in a timely manor.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 06:16 PM
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you can go with painting the frame in a bare metal color. Saw this on Orange County Choppers when they did the jet bike.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 07:42 AM
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thsnks guys. what do you think of the por 15 glisten pc or eastwood's diamond clear. por 15 advertizes that it is almost like an epoxy. after 3-4 day of curing it is rock hard and almost impossible to chip.
What are the manufacturers of the bare metal paint.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 07:46 AM
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the paint on the jet bike is awesome. i like the way they made it look like tin and even had the rivets, good idea.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2007 | 08:05 AM
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Por 15 is not worth the money. I have had better luck with rustoleum red metal primer and paint brushed on. POR is 4x the price, and you need their extra stuff to make it right. I read the "paint directly over rust" and now I have rust. The people who have had good luck get the "primer" whatever POR calls it. I painted my frame with rustoleum, and it isn't rusting, but did take prep.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 04:32 PM
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has anyone ever clearcoated a bare metal frame??? any suggestions. i'd rather not try to make paint look like bare metal if i don't have to!!!
 
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 11:24 AM
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I just painted my frame,and used deltron-gun metal gray-and looks like steel color.Came out nice and durable as all heck.I think clear will stick to your frame,if you use an Imron-deltron-polane clear.After all it is paint with no color!I am just worried that if it did chip-you won't tell till rust starts.BILL
 
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 12:37 PM
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many folks have had really good experiences with por products. worth the $$ if done right but if you prep well even rustoleum will work.

I'd check with por directly- you should be able to talk to a rep about glisten- which some have used to seal chrome wheels etc with success. you would want to use a lot of metal ready to prepare the surface and add zink for extra protection- it wall make a smooth metal surface feel rough as it etches metal.

you could always give it a go if your prepared to keep an eye on it and coat it if it fails.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 12:42 PM
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ted...nice truck amigo....very very nice. folks should check it out in your forum!
 
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by teds74ford
Por 15 is not worth the money. I have had better luck with rustoleum red metal primer and paint brushed on. POR is 4x the price, and you need their extra stuff to make it right. I read the "paint directly over rust" and now I have rust. The people who have had good luck get the "primer" whatever POR calls it. I painted my frame with rustoleum, and it isn't rusting, but did take prep.
Agree that POR-15 is expensive but not the part that it doesn't work. I have used both POR and Eastwoods stuff in an enviroment that is harder on metal than the trucks see. This is aboard the aircraft carrier Hornet which sits in salt water. The Eastwood brand went onto a deck section in the Flag Bridge while I wait to fix the overhead water leak. This section is under 1" water most of the week, through the winter, before I can soak it up on Sunday. Two years now and no rust.

The POR is used out on the port walkway around the base of a pelorus which has lost 40% of it base over the 30 years in mothball. The base and deck area were chipped and cleaned before using the POR. Can say it dries hard as nails and then had to scuff sand it before painting with deck gray. This area is always under water during the winter months as the ship doesn't move enough to displace the water towards the drains. Again, there is no rust in this salty enviroment.

Next to try will be Rust Bullet just to compared and not concern myself with UV when I do the turn down at the back end of the flight deck.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 07:10 PM
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Have not tried POR 15, but I used Chassis Saver from Magnet Paints, but the black is UV sensitive.. I liked it. But, I don't think you could go wrong with POR 15, Rust Bullet, EastWoods Rust Encapsulator, or Chassis Saver.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 12:36 PM
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I have tried most all of these and the price of chassis saver is lower.iT IS NICE STUFF.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2007 | 01:44 AM
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tbm3fan has the best test i have seen!!! Anyone can use something and end up liking it...but ongoing saltwater emmersion in the ocean is well beyond what most guys will ever see.

There is wisdom and understanding in what this guy says that goes way beyond any other post...the clost i have is a foam system using in firefighting apparatus and the por type stuff is the onmly stuff i have tried that works- have not tried all the specialty type stuff in that tough of an environment-

use the good stuff and it's for life.
 
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