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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Beneath the paint

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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 07:28 AM
  #16  
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It's possible, but I wouldn't recommend it, too easy to warp the heck out of the panel. It grinds out pretty easily. I'd be concerned as to where the moisture is coming from and what damage it has done being trapped between the metal and filler. I suspect there is some rust thru someplace. After grinding it out, poke any and all dark spots in the metal, even small ones, firmly with a pointed tool (awl, icepick, scribe) and see if they poke thru. Better to find them now than after repainting.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by AXracer
too easy to warp the heck out of the panel. It grinds out pretty easily.
duh, forgot about that
 
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 10:27 PM
  #18  
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AX, I was a little surprised by the moisture too, never seen anything like it. in some spots i simply just used a putty knife to remove the bondo, it really wasn't adhered to metal anymore. The metal under the bondo is surprisingly solid and fresh. I must have caught it in time, i could have only imagined what it may look like in a few years.

Gearbolt - glad you like it, Its not quite as nice in its current state
 
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 07:10 AM
  #19  
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Maybe the bondo developed some fine cracks that let in moisture. If bondo is allowed to sit exposed to weather it will also absorb moisture. Always paint bondo as soon as possible after applying it and never get it wet before painting over it. Primer is also porous and will allow moisture to penetrate.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 07:53 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by AXracer
After grinding it out, poke any and all dark spots in the metal, even small ones, firmly with a pointed tool (awl, icepick, scribe) and see if they poke thru. Better to find them now than after repainting.
I agree on that as well, there have been a few of my trucks I've owned that came to me full of bondo. In order to figure out the extent of it, I just start poking around with a small screwdriver.. the theory being that your not going to damage sound metal, but should be able to find the really badly rusted/bondo'd areas pretty easily.

Also one technique I use to remove bondo that I've had a lot of luck with is to use a wire wheel mounted on my angle grinder. It makes a lot of dust, so wear a mask, but it gets rid of the paint and filler fast and doesn't do any damage to metal underneath and leaves a nice clean surface.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 09:12 AM
  #21  
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Ax is correct,about bondo acting like a sponge.Most people don't like sticking an awl thru there truck ,but better now than later,like he said!!I have found bondo 3'' thick and have determined someone did this because they only wanted the dent smooth,and no skills to remove the dent.Fast body work like this can be a big pain in the neck if you find holes under the bondo.It comes down to--you never know what the body-man did if you tick him off!!!!!haha---but it's not funny when it happens to you.
Grind it off and do it right and take your time--after all it is a hobby,not a production shop!!!!!!Bill
 
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 09:59 AM
  #22  
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Jon you are certainly right about the dust the wire wheel creates, I have to get a mask before I go any further there!
Wow, Walford 3" thick that will ad some weight to a truck for sure. It would have been fun to run my truck over the CAT scale at work before and after I stripped the Bondo just to see what the weight difference would be.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 11:26 AM
  #23  
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I have also used a "klean and strip" wheel by 3M Looks like a dark course nylon sponge material. It will remove paint and bondo without removing metal and get into contours that are difficult with a sander. It too throws a lot of dust tho.
 
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