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I believe my truck was painted yellow in the early 70's right before my uncle purchased it, So naturally the paint needs attention.
Their are several areas on the truck where the paint has blistered. I started sanding down the blistered areas and you can guess what was underneath Bondo as expected.
The scary part was when i hit the roof section 1/4" thick in some areas. The interesting thing is that this truck was originally seafoam green and the bondo is under what I believed to be the original paint. Do you guys know if these trucks left the factory with Bondo?
No, bondo wasn`t used at the factory. It`s use in body shops didn`t become common till later, probably in the later 50`s early 60`s.
The factories back then used lead, though I`ve never noticed what appears to be factory lead in old Ford trucks, mostly in afew seams in cars.
What is the bondo covering? rust rather than dents I'd bet since the paint is blistering.
Even if a factory did use bondo (I agree they didn't) they certainly didn't put it on 1/4" thick. My guess is the truck had some work done, collision or rust repair, then repainted the original color. Bondo, if it was applied properly would have been applied to bare metal after the paint was ground off, so there would be no sign of paint under it.
A previous owner or body-man got ahold of that truck,and did the old-bang-it out and bondo it up.Very common.Don't forget in at least OH/Pa/Mich.--trucks rusted with holes in a few years.--and cars too.--that's why you don't see the rare c___y vega-haha
It`s not that way in most places, you are very lucky.
Here there is alot of salt and potash waste used in the winter for removing ice off the roads, it also removes vehicle bodies rather well.
I was pretty sure the factories didnt use bondo but had to ask, thanks for the confirmation.
I guess the truck was just repaired really early on in its life.
I just cant wait to remove all that plastic and see the real story.
Ax, as best as I can tell the filler is covering clean metal, however there is quite a bit of moisture between the metal and filler, I can grind an area down to metal in some spots and when pushing down on the surrounding area moisture will seep out.
My 56 had a lot of bondo on it...and about 6 different colors of paint. I knew there was trouble underneath it because of the "bubbling" in areas like the nose of the hood and bottoms of the doors. The previous repairs were those "bang it out and bondo" like Walford said. There were also some lead repairs where the badging was removed.
It took a lot of time to grind it all out and redo. Many areas had to be patched with new metal (hood, doors, quarter panel).
Overall, the metal patching and metal mods were the most rewarding work I have done. The new filler and body prep has been the most exhausting, but very rewarding also. Now, I guess, it's time to find out about painting it.
Have fun. But do it right. Go to bare metal and build it back. You won't be sorry. I had most of the stuff blasted and wire-brushed the cab, but IMHO, media blasting followed by epoxy prime is the best method of metal prep. You can remove the primer where you need to weld, but leave it where you'll just be filling. That way, you'll have the time you need to do the work without having the bare metal rust back on you.
Last edited by Randy Jack; Mar 13, 2007 at 12:03 PM.
Well i ended up starting with the right rear fender today. removed most all the old paint and filler. All along the top of the fender are shallow creases about 2" long, doesn't look like the PO even tried to beat on it. i guess i will be spending some time in the body forum
I considered myself lucky that the previous owner just filled the dents with bondo. It's a lot easier to remove unmolested dents than fix hammer happy "repairs".
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