Welcome to FTE.
With the fluid looking black as you've described, it sounds like this tranny has been neglected for a Long time. All that said you might try dropping the pan for a look see at the deposit load & type in it & the filter, replace the filter, & make the last cleaning of the pan magnet & pan with throttle body, or non chlorinated brake cleaner rather than linty wipes.
Then review posts 963 & 971 to complete a Full tranny fluid pump out & see if you can get a few more miles of use out of it before having to spring for a rebuild, or reman tranny.
If you have, or can come by the inexpensive ELM scan tool as discussed here, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html & running FORScan or the like software to the viewing device of your choice, have it scan the tranny computer for trouble code clues that you might be able to make use of while you have the tranny pan off & post up All trouble code Numbers in a new thread, so you get help just for your problems.

 

Welcome to FTE.
If you have, or can come by the inexpensive ELM scan tool as discussed here, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html & running FORScan or the like software to the viewing device of your choice, have it scan the tranny computer for trouble code clues & post up All trouble code Numbers in a new thread, so you get help just for your problems.
If you don't want to do that, consider taking it back to the tranny shop that did the last repair, show them the paperwork & have them make a diagnosis & post up what they suggest in the new thread.

 

Hi guys (and girls) I've been lurking in this forum for years, but I think this is my first post. I have a 2003 Ranger and absolutely love it. It is my 4th one in 20+ years. Anyway...

I have a problem which I'm almost certain is the transmission slipping. I'm trolling for advice for getting it fixed properly, yet also inexpensively as I am on an extremely limited income.

* Its a 2003 Ranger, 3.0L flex engine, 5R55E (code D) transmission.
* Currently at 129K miles. I bought it at 89K miles. Can't speak for the previous owner, but I have not abused it. I'm a conservative driver and don't tow anything. It could really use a good wash though!
* Problem started when I left the country for 7 months and the truck was parked in a friend's yard. Although he did occasionally start it to move it. I've had the problem since I got back 5 months ago and started driving it again.
* At approx 42-45 MPH while accelerating (usually gently) the truck 'bucks' or 'lurches' a few times. This is the only speed at which it does this. I assume this is when the tranny goes from 4th to 5th.
* Problem does not seem to be getting any worse (or any better) in 5 months.
* I have never changed the fluid in the 40K miles that I have had it. Dunno about previous owner (Probably not).
* Fluid on the dipstick appears clean and clear red (not cloudy) and does not smell burnt. It is at the right level.
* RPMs do not jump when it does it. I have one of those bluetooth OBDII adapters and have driven it with my tablet connected while I experience this problem. Do not see any spikes in any of the sensor readings. All OBDII numbers and graphs appear normal best as I can tell.
* I was about to get my professional mechanic (whom my whole family has used for many years, very honest guy, trust him) to change the fluid and filter, but he said NO! Sez that changing the fluid in this particular situation often makes it WORSE. A friend who is an amateur mechanic with a lot of Ford experience said the same thing. Doing some research on the web also seems to validate this.
* The vehicle is drivable and the problem is not so bad that I can't just live with it if I have to. If I need a rebuild and it's gonna cost a lot to fix, I will just live with it until it breaks completely.
* Lucas Transmission Fix has been suggested by the two above mentioned mechanics.

Don't think it's related but:
* Runs a little rough sometimes when first started until warmed up. Only takes a minutes or two, then runs fine.
* Every great now and then get check-engine light when it runs rough at startup. OBDII code is 301 or 303, cylinder 1 or 3 misfire.

Should I risk changing the fluid & filter? Could it be the bands need adjusting?

Thanks in advance!

 

Welcome to FTE.
Those are engine misfire codes, not tranny codes.
A misfire under load at the right time can feel like a tranny shift problem, so they should be put right Before messing with the tranny. Excessive spark gap, or other plug problems can cause it to miss under load.
Raise the hood after dark with it at warm idle & look for a arcs & sparks light show around the coil pack, along the plug wires all the way to the plugs, maybe individually spritz the wires, pugs & coil pack with a spray bottle of water, to see if you can induce breakdown, or a rough idle, paying attention to #1 & #3, for which you have trouble code clues.
If no joy, remove those two plugs for a look see inside for excessive plug gap, or ceramic insulator chips, or cracks, or carbon or oil fouling & externally along the plug ceramics, inside the plug wire boot for carbon tracks & post up what you see.
Don't add Lucas anything to the tranny fluid. Licensed fully formulated Mercon V doesn't need any help from after market ads who's recipe % contents, or type are unknown, not tested to any specification, nor recommended, specified, or factory added by any vehicle manufacturer. So just leave them on the shelf.
If your scan tool is a ELM type, try loading FORScan software & have it scan all of the vehicle computer/controllers, which would include the tranny & engine computers & post All set, or pending trouble code Numbers, as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues in case you have more than one problem.
More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

 

Yes, I'm aware of that.
Yes, I'm aware of that. But the problem occurs ONLY at 42-45 MPH. Same in wet or dry weather. Have already performed a close visual inspection of wires and insulators (but not after dark, I will try that!)
It is, and I will download and try that software. I have been using Torque and OBD Fusion and they haven't reported any tranny codes, just the rare P301 and P303, which when it does pop up, is when first cranking, not while driving at 42-45 MPH.
Yes, that's how I feel. I am reluctant to add a "magic quick-fix in a bottle". I'd rather get to the bottom of the real problem and fix it properly. On the other hand, I can't even begin to afford a rebuild, and don't have the skills or even the physical ability to do it myself (I'm disabled). Lots and lots of positive reviews on Amazon claiming this Lucas stuff resolved or at least reduced their problem, and that the fix lasted 6 months, a year, and longer. I was surprised at just how many good reviews and how few bad ones. Thus, I am reserving the Lucas Fix as a backup option.

Thanks for the software suggestion!!

Any thoughts to changing fluid and filter? There is apparently at least some truth to that making things worse for some people with a similar problem.

 

Oh yes, and I have not seen either a dip, or a rise in RPMs when this happens. If it was a misfire, wouldn't I see a momentary dip? But if it's a tranny slip, shouldn't I see a momentary rise?

 

The ELM running FORScan can have an in depth look at whats going on with the misfire & maybe be able to offer up some insight on the tranny woes by coming up with some trouble code clues, or by monitoring some tranny parameters when it acts out.
I'd concentrate on the misfire codes as you have trouble code clues & a misfire can cause one to think the tranny has a problem. It's difficult to detect a brief fast acting misfire with a analog meter, but FORScan can probably see it in the dash board oscilloscope mode rpm line drawing.
If the tranny shift acting out continues after putting the misfire problem right, then FORScan should be able to offer up a good insight to what, if anything is going on with the tranny, as it can monitor a number of things in the tranny.
The spray bottle wet down test after dark is a good diagnostic procedure for weak wire insulation, cracked external plug ceramics, external carbon tracking.
Don't forget we can have coil pack breakdown underneath from cracks in the coil pack potting & case. So if you come to suspect that, loosen, raise & support the coil pack for the spritzing after dark test.
We can do the tranny fluid pump out procedure the Dealers used before they got the flush machine by following the tips here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-pump-out.html Last fall I did the 94 Taurus using this procedure, so If I can still get down there & do this, most others should be able to also. If you can't, bribe a friend with a dinner, or cook out, or a case of his favorite adult beverage to help you, while you start & stop the engine during the pump out.
Opt for the Motorcraft tranny filter & a licensed Mercon V fluid. I've used Motorcraft Mercon V & Chevron licensed Mercon V with good results.
New tranny fluid in a clean tranny isn't going to hurt it.

 

Forgot the P1744 code, its for the torque converter clutch system stuck in the off position, so you either have a mechanical/hydraulic, or electrical hydraulic problem. A scan with the ELM scan tool running FORScan or the like software may be able to provide answers to that clue. Did the P1744 code come about after the fluid & filter change???? If so & your fluid looked as black as the one in this video, you may have stirred up some deposits that have mucked something up.
running the engine at high rpm with the tranny slipping is a no no as described & shown in the video, so maybe a flush will help, maybe not, but its less costly to find out than replacing the tranny if it'll work for a bit while you decide what you want to do, rebuild, swap in a used tranny, buy & install a reman???? Good luck, it seems your likely going to need plenty of it on this one. Let us know how it goes.

 

So I purchased/downloaded/installed FORscan on my tablet last night and took the truck for a test drive. I was able to reproduce the slipping problem many times while capturing and graphing data with FORscan.

I selected most of the misfire and tranny related PIDs and put FORscan into graph mode. The only misfires (7) were within the first 1000 RPM. No misfires after that, not even when I felt the slippage.

No new fault codes and none related to the transmission. During the test drive, none of the solenoids reported any faults. I did notice that FORscan reports I am in 5th gear well before I get to 42-45 MPH, so the slippage isn't at the change from 4th to 5th as I had guessed, I now believe it has to do with the overdrive. But the graphs of the overdrive PIDs were smooth, with no spikes, dips, or oscillations as the slippage occurred. Also, the RPMs remained smooth with no dips or spikes as should be expected with a misfire or slip.

In short, FORscan did not reveal to me (yet) anything that in my limited knowledge, I didn't already know. Still pretty cool though and worth the $4.61 it cost me.

The laptop (windows) version of FORscan is free, although I'm not sure if my old laptop supports a new enough version of bluetooth to work, but I thought I might try that. The laptop version appears to have better graphing.

What PIDs should I be watching, and what should I be looking for?

Thanks again fellows!

 

I wanted to thank you for all the help and advice we took it for a 60 mile trip today it missed a gear in the first shift when we left and that was that... from that point on it ran perfectly! on the way home i got brave and tried flooring it to see if it was going to go into neutral or kick down into detent and it worked perfectly. thank you so much pawpaw you saved my *** on this one!

 

Ok, good feedback & to hear things are still trending positive 04darthtrac.


EDIT: Woooops, got the post replies confused, too much going on in one thread, that's why its best for us to open a new thread just for our problems.

 

Have a look here for suspects to put on the FORScan monitor list.
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0300
If the P0300 code returns & or you come to suspect plugs/wires, perform the wet down test mentioned above.

 

OK Guys......1999 Ranger, 4.0, 5 speed auto., 4x4, 5R55E Tranny, Very hard thump when shifting, usually 1st to 2nd, sometimes 2nd to 3rd, and sometimes down shifting as well. I had the tranny pulled and a total rebuild done. Put it back in and have the same problem. Now I'm pissed!!! Trowing the codes P0715-Input Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction and P0500-Input speed sensor malfunction. I know the ISS is internal in this tranny and requires another pull. I so pray that some of you can tell me something to check that could cause this code before I replace the ISS?

 

I thought the '99 4.0 used a 4R55E. I don't believe it had an internal speed sensor. The main speed sensor is on the top of the punkin on the rear end. If you have four wheel ABS you could have another speed sensor on the front wheels. Is your speedometer acting properly?

 

Carefully check wiring and connectors, preferably with an ohmmeter. Eliminate that before pulling the tranny.