I don't have any history on it. I bought it yesterday from a dealer that got it in on trade from the original owner.

The amount it is overfilled is about one inch over the hash marks on the dipstick. I wouldn't think it would matter that much, but it makes sense to get it right before moving on. I will find something to siphon with tomorrow morning.

 

One inch over the full end of the hash marks is a Lot overfilled & can cause mischief, so yes its advisable to get the fluid level right before a protracted high speed highway run.
Take it back to the Dealer & have him make the fluid level right & run a trouble code scan on the tranny computer/controller & post up All code Number clues.
If in doubt, better to consider having the vehicle towed, trucked, or trailered the 300 miles, rather than risk tranny damage from unknown causes.

 

I have corrected the fluid level by removing about two quarts. No change except maybe it shifts a little smoother from 1st to 2nd before the OD light starts flashing and the problems start.

I can't take it back to the dealer because I bought it as-is with it having the problem. They said they would fix it for $1800. I figured I could fix it myself or take out the transmission and rebuild or have it rebuilt. I have a done a couple in the past, but they were old ones - C4, C6, 727.

The pan gasket looks to be cork that is not brand new, but not original. The pan bolts don't look touched. The cooler lines don't look touched at either end.

From the sounds of this, is there any way that a simple VB gasket and/or filter/filter change would fix it? I have a Ford dealer not too far away if I need to get the gasket there.

 

Good idea to have gotten the tranny fluid level right. Good grief, two qts over filled, no wonder it was protesting, the fluid was likely badly aerated & that'll cause all kinds of mischief. Was the removed fluid showing signs of aeration??? If so & it was heavily aerated, it might take a while like overnight for all the tiny bubbles to work their way out of the fluid & the problems to either go away, or not get any better.
Seeing as how your ELM is at home 300 miles away, have someone overnight it to you so you can scan for codes, or take it to a tranny shop & have them scan the tranny computer for trouble code clues, that'll likely tell you what your looking at for repairs & if its safe to drive. Right now you really don't have enough info to make an informed move. Let us know how it goes.

 

I got my code scanner in the mail and played with it for a few minutes this morning with Forscan, driving around the neighborhood. Here is what I see so far:

There are not other error codes besides the P0731, P0733, P0734.

From a fresh start, everything seems normal until I push it hard enough to make the OD light flash. After that, it looks like the PCM outputs to the shift solenoids is different than what I see before the light flashes. It is almost like it thinks something is going wrong and putting it in a "limp mode". However, the mode doesn't seem to be fitting to anything that is noticeably wrong. I am wondering now if there could be a problem with the shaft sensors that let it determine slip. I see the turbine shaft speed, but I am not sure which parameter to compare that to. I would think a speed sensor would either work or not work, rather than be off, but I'm new to this. Perhaps is more that shaft speed sensors - pressure or something?

 

Have you reviewed the suggestions for things to look for in this http://www.obd-codes.com/p0731 above link on the codes you have???

Is the at operating temp tranny fluid now at the correct level & is its condition still ok, no deposits, burned smell, no dipstick varnish signs, or signs of fluid aeration??

Do you have a pressure gauge to see if line pressure is ok, no clogged tranny filter or faulty pump signs???

Have FORScan erase the codes & drive it until it acts out again & have FORScan take another look to maybe find some more clues.

 

I drove it 250 miles to get it home, and now I just pull the pan and valve body. No metal in the pan. No blown valve body gasket.

Tomorrow I will get an ohm meter and check the solenoids.

I have already ordered/received a full solenoid kit (new) and a Sonnax zip kit. All I lack is the VB gasket.

I went to the Ford dealer today and they were confused when they looked up the gasket. They said it had been superceeded multiple times and now it looks like it is a "plate". I thought that makes sense because I read about the bonded gaskets and that is why I went to the dealer. However, they are over $50 each (upper and lower). They are going to order them, but I thought that I had read on this forum how they were only like $15 from the dealer?

 

There is a single plate with the upper and lower gaskets bonded on. I think I paid about $57 for mine. The old separate gaskets were less than $20. The bonded plate might be overkill if your zip kit has a pressure relief valve, but I used the bonded plate with the TransGo kit which has the pressure relief. I am not that impressed with this transmission and figure it needs all the help one can give it.

 

I am getting ready to reassemble the valve body on this 5r55e from a 2011 Ranger. Two concerns/missing parts:

1. Inner spring on the Converter Clutch Valve. I don't see any purpose for this other than to assist the outer spring and give more force. However, it should be noted that this valve and the one behind it, the Coast Clutch Valve, were extremely hard to remove.

2. EPC Limit Circuit Screen - I don't see any way I could have lost it. I don't think it was in there.

I did see some minor signs that someone had been in this valve body before, unless that is the assemblers are the ones that left a few pick marks around the retainer R-clips.

I am wondering if I can order a "spring kit" from the Ford dealer. Other than the missing spring a few of them actually seem worn (rough) on the ends. Some of them seem to measure a good bit shorter than the lengths listed on the docs in the Sonnax kit.

They didn't stop putting in these parts in the later years did they? (the screen and the inner spring)

 

Suddenly stopped going into gear. Cable and linkage all working, shaft turns with it. Sounds like something is 'sparking' when shifting ( I was underneath it watching the linkage and heard it). Help??

 

Suddenly stopped going into gear. Cable and linkage all working, shaft turns with it. Sounds like something is 'sparking' when shifting ( I was underneath it watching the linkage and heard it). Help??

 

(i actually posted this under the sport trac section but thought maybe it would get more eyes here if i did the wrong thing i am sorry i will delete) i just picked up a 2004 sport trac a week ago and finally got around to playing with it some. (im a disabled vet and have a lot of back and leg injuries that prevent me from playing with toys much!) the first trip i took with it after getting it home was about 30 miles all went well the next time not so much i got a couple miles down the road to a stop sign after i left the stop sign it went through first gear and when it shifted to second in drive it was as if it had been put in neutral... i let off the gas gassed again nothing... i wiggled the selector and it went into third i honestly figured i had not gotten it firmly in drive! i got to the store pulled in and when i came out it wouldnt move... forward or back and the od light flashed i got my busted down *** out of the truck checked the fluid it was low i went back in and and got a quart of merc v and topped it off figured that would fix it... it did to a point it no longer (and never has again) had a problem going forward or backward but still the same thing with second gear being gone. so i started doing basic diagnostics on the way home... it does NOT slip at all... its as if in drive second is on vacation... if i shift it 1 to 2 to drive manually it works fine. it downshifts from od to 4 3 2 1 just like it should... it DOES have engine braking in 1 and 2 and if i get it going and coast and shut off the od the tach goes up so i know its going into OD... i scanned it with my tool no codes stored and after filling the tranny i have not seen any blinking on the over drive indicator. the truck has 192 grand on it... but because its a ford i cant imagine this is the original build on the tranny hell its probably the bottom of the 9th for the third one. if i was rich and not squeaking by on a VA disability check i would buy a new tranny but then if i was rich i would have bought a new truck sooo do you guys think valve body issue with the gasket or a solenoid or do you think i should just invest (lol) in a junk yard tranny and pray?

 

Welcome to FTE.
Thank You For Your Service.
Since its behaving after the fluid top off & with the miles on it & unknown past maintenance history, I'd consider performing a pan drop, filter replacement & continuing on with a Full fluid pump out as described here, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-pump-out.html .
If the tranny has been driven with the fluid low, or hasn't had regular, or any service over its life, it may have some gum, varnish, or sludge mucking up something important in the valve body & a complete fluid flush with all new Mercon V in there with a fresh charge of detergents, may be able to slowly tidy things up in the valve body, if deposits there are causing mischief.
On it being low on fluid, since the tranny is a closed system, it shouldn't be low on fluid unless it has a leak, or wasn't properly filled beforehand, so be sure to look into why the fluid was low.
On scanning the tranny computer for trouble codes, most after market code readers, or scan tools cant query the tranny computer/controller for trouble codes, but the inexpensive ELM scan tool, running FORScan software on the viewing device of your choice can, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html , so maybe consider adding the inexpensive ELM scantool to your electronic tool box. I did & its more than paid for itself on the last two problems, no ABS & no power windows action woes I've had.
Some thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

 

Great place to start! i agree and i like the pump out method too! im lucky in so far as i have a remote start set up on this one so i can start and stop the engine while standing in front of it! ahhh i didnt realize my obd2 scanner wouldnt read this trucks tranny codes it has read other vehicle tranny codes (nissan and caddy and the neighbors ford 500) i will order the type you mentioned. the fluid scares me a little because on the stick its a tan/red color and smells like cherrys and brake pads. once i get her drained and get the pan down ill know more by what i find in the bottom i suppose. to me it seemed like a sticking valve but my transmission experience ended with the TH400s lol

 

I agree the pan drop is a good place to start, as the deposit contents allows us to get a good idea of what has been going on inside & with its use & type service its had.
I'd recommend considering using the Ford/Filteran tranny filter & Motorcraft Mercon V fluid, or a fluid that says in writing that its licensed to meet Fords Mercon V specification. I've used Motorcraft & Chevron licensed Mercon V with good results on my 99 5R55E tranny & in my power steering system.