Welcome to FTE.
^+1 putting the rear differential mounted ABS speed sensor on your suspect list, especially if your also having speed-o, ABS &/or cruise control problems, along with the tranny shift problems & the P0500 code, as they all use the rear ABS speed sensor PID output signal to do their thing. As noted, it's located atop the drivers side front center of the rear differential housing. A 10mm bolt, electrical connector & a sealing "O" ring on it's body hold it in. Clean & blow off any debris before removing the sensor, to prevent anything falling into & contaminating the differential lubricant. Lube the new sensor O ring & differential bore hole with oil, insert fully, torque the 10mm bolt to 25-29 Ft/Lbs. & attach the electrical connector.
I purchased a BWD rear speed sensor for my 99 on line with a Advance Auto discount code for a very reasonable price in 011.
Let us know what you find.

 

This tranny is most definitely a 5R55E. And the ISS is definitely internal.

 

Taking it to the Ford garage Friday. Decided to pay the $80.00 and let them troubleshoot it before I tear it out this weekend, even though the service manager at the garage swore the ISS was external. After going back and forth with him for 15 min. he finally asked his tranny specialist. He said, "Sorry boss, you lost that argument!!!!"

 

Thank You all for your help. I'll let you know Friday.

 

1999 Ford Ranger, 3.0L, automatic, 2wd, 156K. The problem, no forward and no reverse. Fluid level is good, and bright red. There is no check engine indicator. With the engine running, I can shift through all gears and there is no dip in RPMs as I go through the gears. Can the input shaft be broken? I didn't want to start a new thread, I'll continue my search. Thanks in advance.

 

More than likely the pump has failed.

Check fluid level with the engine OFF, then with it the engine RUNNING, the fluid level should be lower with the engine is running. If the level is the same the pump is not working.

You can also remove a cooler line and start the engine, if no fluid flow the pump is probably broken.

Obviously if the pump is broken you will have to replace the tranny or rebuild it.

 

Thanks, for the info, I will troubleshoot as you suggested.

 

Turns out to be the pump.

 

Good call on the tranny pump belonging high up on the suspect list.

 

i have a 2004 sport trac 4x4 with a door code D tranny (according to the users manual and door sticker its a 5r44e tranny) searching for a rebuilt tranny i have seen sites that say i need a 5r55e, 5r55w, 4r44e... etc etc it seems the people that rebuild them dont know what the hell they fit anymore than i do!! i have had nothing but issues with this thing since i got it. some of you have helped me get it this far and i appreciate it but i need to be able to rely on the vehical and its never the same from one day to the next... it may just not move at all for 10 minutes on monday work fine all day tuesday decide it doesnt have a 3rd gear on wednesday... its nuts lol im done... i have the chance to buy a low mile tranny out of a 1998 ford ranger 4.0 litre 4x4 for 25 bucks... the one thats in the ranger is also marked as a code d on its door sticker and they appear to be identical... will they swap?

 

I just got a 1996 ford ranger and I'm having issues with the trans. It's automatic. The truck takes anywhere from 10-30 minutes to heat up enough to where I won't have too much problem with it going into gear. It has a problem getting enough power when I accelerate, like it's not catching the gear or something. Once I feel it go into 3rd I'm fine it has pretty much no issue. The problem is taking off and it shifting into second. I talked to a guy about it who dabbles in cars and he was saying because it's taking so long to warm up the might be a solidified fluid build in something. I didn't understand much. It's the only vehicle I have so it's not like I can leave it sit while I figure it out. Any help or advice is appreciated, thanks all.

 

Trans fluid expands as it warms up. It sounds like your fluid might be low enough that you are sucking air occasionally when cold. Check the fluid level in park with the engine running. The proper fluid is written on your dip stick.

 

Hi Matt I checked the link with the gasket replacement and there are no pictures shown . When i click on the little icon it sends me to a page with the new Nitto Grappler tire . No photos. Thanks.

 

Hello everyone. My sister in law has a 99 Explorer with the 4.0l V6 engine and auto trans 2WD. 3 days ago on her way to work the truck started acting up as in dying out at stop light and not running good at all . I checked codes when she came back home and found 17 codes. Trans codes p1747, p0743, p0750, p0755, p0760, p0765, engine /emissions codes p1451, p0135,p0141, p0155. p0161, p1409, p0420, p0136, ,p0156, p1131 and p1151. 8 of these are related to the O2 sensors and catalist system. Anyway the truck starts and runs and idles in gear but as soon as i push the accelerator it stumbles and dies out . restarts and idles again. Idle does surge up and down. Almost sound like it runs out of fuel. no fixes had been done yet . I recommended to change fuel filter first since she doesn't know the last time it was replaced. She also told me that the engine was replaced about 3 years ago. That is all i know at this time . Any suggestions are greatly appreciated since this is her only vehicle and needs to go to work . Thanks.

 

I have a 2000 Ford Ranger with 197,000 miles on it. It's a two wheel drive, four speed, and four cylinder 2.5 liter.

It had no shifting or driving issues. Then suddenly one day both drive and reverse stopped working from a stop. Trying either from a stop and the transmission just slips. It tries to move forward but can't.

If I put it in second gear, it will get up to speed and then I can shift into drive. From there I can feel the transmission shift without a problem and can get up to normal road speeds.

The check engine light is on and the OD Off light comes on when it gets shifted into drive at speed. The OD light stays steady and doesn't blink.

The auto parts store checked the codes it was throwing and the there was one for poor presure on shifting solenoid c - which a google search tells me is shifting soleniod 3.

I dropped the pan today to take a look. There was no metal in the pan or on the catch magnet and the fluid wasn't burned. I can see where the shifting soleniod 3 is but I wouldn't mind some idea how to replace it before I start pulling bolts out. I can't find any videos or discussions that talk about this repair.

Also, it would be good to hear if others have fixed the same problem by replacing shifting soleniod 3. Is is too simple to think I only have to swap out the shifting soleniod?

Thanks for any advice!

Peter