pyro probe instalation
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 807
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by whalerron
Why is it that almost everyone puts the sensor before the turbo in these Ford trucks? The big tractors all have the pyro sensor after the turbo. Why are the big over the road trucks done differently than our light duty pickups?
Not a really big deal on big rigs, as compared to someone in a PSD, DuraMax, etc getting their foot on the floor with a tuner and making the EGT's fly through the roof.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 858
Likes: 0
From: VA
Originally Posted by TXHillCountry
I didn't even jack mine up, much less put it on a lift. The first item of business is to remove the plastic fender well. There's a handful of screws and then some pushing and tugging, along with popping off some plastic retainers that are holding some wiring harnesses in place, and then the whole thing comes out.
Now you have a pretty clear view of the exhaust manifold.
The next step will be to remove the two bolts connecting the manifold to the turbo inlet pipe.
Then you'll remove the exhaust gas pressure sensor, which looks like an egt probe and is toward the front of the manifold.
Now you're ready to remove the manifold bolts.
Tools I used included a decent metric and SAE socket set with more than a couple of long extensions to reach up in there. Mine's an '03 with 95K miles but nothing was rusted or seized up. A decent set of metric and SAE wrenches.
And finally, depending on the size of your pyro/EGT probe, you'll need a tap that size. Mine required a 1/4" NPT size tap, which I picked up at Autozone.
I won't shine sunshine up your skirt, this isn't a "go out a pop out the two plastic tabs and one screw" job. You'll use a few choice curse words and have some skinned knuckles. And it'll take the better part of several hours.
rgds,
TX
Now you have a pretty clear view of the exhaust manifold.
The next step will be to remove the two bolts connecting the manifold to the turbo inlet pipe.
Then you'll remove the exhaust gas pressure sensor, which looks like an egt probe and is toward the front of the manifold.
Now you're ready to remove the manifold bolts.
Tools I used included a decent metric and SAE socket set with more than a couple of long extensions to reach up in there. Mine's an '03 with 95K miles but nothing was rusted or seized up. A decent set of metric and SAE wrenches.
And finally, depending on the size of your pyro/EGT probe, you'll need a tap that size. Mine required a 1/4" NPT size tap, which I picked up at Autozone.
I won't shine sunshine up your skirt, this isn't a "go out a pop out the two plastic tabs and one screw" job. You'll use a few choice curse words and have some skinned knuckles. And it'll take the better part of several hours.
rgds,
TX
When I drilled the hole 7/16 and then tapped it for the 1/4" NPT I was shocked at the ammount and size of the metal that was made. Any of that going into the turbo would not be good.
I will add a little tidbit to the mounting of the PDA holder for the Banks 6-Gun.... On the under side of the holder you will see two holes. Use a 1/2" drill bit and VERY carefully enlarge the bigger of the two holes. Next, about dead center of the back of the holder drill another 1/2" hole VERY, VERY carefully so as not to hit the circuit board underneath. Next, position the holder on the dash and make some outline marks of the holder, after taking a few measurements I was able to transcribe the hole I made to the dash. Next I drilled a hole into the dash. Now you can run your cable up behind the dash thru the drilled hole and then pass it thru the back of the holder and out the bottom. Turn it back up and plug it into the left most port. Clean the dash, remove the tape and press the holder firmly into place.
My main objective behind this was to elimaniate a unsightly wire running down the front of my dash. The install looks really sweet. I'll take a few pictures of it and post them.
But, on the subject of to remove or not, I vote to remove it. If not then don't tempt fate and install it post turbo.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,743
Likes: 3
From: Peoria, IL
I just go tto thinking about this, I'm not sure how well it would work but has anyone tried either magnetizing the drill bit or using a magnet on the manifold to try to drag any metal shaving back out of the hole?
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 807
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Yes, there are those who have successfully used a magnetized bit.
But there is always the uncertainty of... "Did I get it all?" when firing the truck back up.
My ONLY argument against any of the methods that people use to drill in place (and there are some good methods), is that the ONLY way you are going to be 100% sure that ALL the metal shavings are out is to remove the manifold.
I like to play poker, but you when the pot is a $40K dollar truck, ...well...you know...
TX
But there is always the uncertainty of... "Did I get it all?" when firing the truck back up.
My ONLY argument against any of the methods that people use to drill in place (and there are some good methods), is that the ONLY way you are going to be 100% sure that ALL the metal shavings are out is to remove the manifold.
I like to play poker, but you when the pot is a $40K dollar truck, ...well...you know...
TX
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 624
Likes: 0
From: north texas
pyro
on my 2006, i drilled this one without any grease on the bit and with the truck not running.....used a magnet to attract all the shavings and then used a 1/4" piece of copper tubing duct taped to the shop vac hose to stick in the hole in the manifold to suck out the rest of the shavings the magnet left behind, fired the truck up have had no problems, and this was 8,000k ago.......
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Oceanside, Ca
Would drilling and taping with the manifold on and then seperating the turbo inlet pipe from the manifold to blow out any shavings that are left be an easier option than total removal of the manifold?
I will do this upgrade very shortly after purchasing my new truck, I just want to ensure it is done with as much turbo/engine protection as possible.
I will do this upgrade very shortly after purchasing my new truck, I just want to ensure it is done with as much turbo/engine protection as possible.
FTE Sponsor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
We've published the proper method on our site. Here's the link: http://www.dieselmanor.com/diy/PSD3-gauge/PSD60gauge-p1.htm
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, AZ
Originally Posted by Dieselmanor's WEBSITE
Tech Tip: Do not perform this while the engine is running! Some company’s recommend this, as it’s their belief that the exhaust pressure going through the manifold will push the shavings out through the hole you are drilling. Ironically some of them in addition recommend coating the bits with grease. We do not subscribe to this belief. Working on a running engine greatly increases your chance of injury. Also, while uncommon, if your drill bit happens to break off inside the manifold, it has no place to go but through the turbo. If the engine were not running you can always take whatever action necessary to remove the broken piece before you start the engine. The practice of coating your drill bits with grease is also a very bad idea. The flutes of a drill bit are designed to remove chips outward. By loading these flutes up with grease all you would be doing is making it more difficult for them to perform as designed. Also, grease will cause some of the shavings to stick on the inside of the manifold, making it difficult to remove later with a vacuum cleaner.
I did it myself w/ grease the 1st time. This time around, it will be dry, engine off, magnet, vacuum.
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plgebbia
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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Jun 4, 2010 02:38 PM
