Go with a bit half the size of the recommended size, grease it, drill it, then go to the rec. size bit, grease it, drill it, then tap the hole. Install sensor, start engine, and let it idle for about 10-15 minutes. That's how I did mine, and it worked great.

 

Do not remove manifold and put it here:

 

I did the dry method with the engine off. I used two smaller drill bits leading up to the "r" bit.

The only hard part is psyching yourself up to actually drill and tap the manifold. Once you get over that then it's a twenty minute job...including running the engine for 5 minutes at idle to make sure anything small flies out the hole or goes past the turbo. The only thing to keep in mind is to use sharp drills and a good tap. Oh, and good luck finding an "r" drill bit to fit the 1/8 tap. I got mine off of ebay after searching Home Depot, Sears, Lowes, etc.

 

Although you really only need a couple threads, If you'll look at my previous photo, this appeared to be the thickest part of the manifold that can be drilled and tapped for the fitting. I drilled here to avoid future cracks from drilling at the curved/thin part of the cast.

I know, there are the three different methods, dry/wet/running the engine...

I still say that the best way is to remove the manifold. It's all of ten bolts and no gasket to deal with.

-Steve

 

Again, I'll agree with Steve. I think it's pretty funny actually of all the photos here showing where to drill if you leave the manifold in place, and in the photos the manifold bolts are clear as day!

Who knows, maybe only one in a hundred turbos suck up the stray metal particulate too big for it to digest. But do you want to be that one?

Lessee... a reman'd turbo runs about $500. Might be worth the roll of the dice. But my math says that the turbo won't die right away. It'll probably finally eat itself about 11:30pm on a rainy night.

rgds,
TX

 

I'm going to let my inexperience show here .......... I assume that the #8 cylinder will record the highest temperatures (due to fuel flow imbalance??) and this is why the preference for location. Which of the two previous pictures shown are closest to #8? I assume #8 is on the passenger side?

 

Well it just happens that #8 is on the driverside rear, and is the easiest to get to with a drill. The closer you get to the exhaust port the more defined the temp is, and less of an average. It is however only 1 cylinder out of 8, but will give you a better picture of what is happening with the exhaust temp. Make it any clearer?

 

the manifold is drilled on the driver's side. correct me if i'm wrong, before i go out and drill.

 

Yes, the driverside is where they are drilled.

 

Driver's side rear is where MOST of us drill it. Therefore, the majority of us can better compare the temps we get to equal (our) normal for different circumstances.

 

Diesel Manor has an excellent set of pictures telling how to do a variety of installations. They show how to install your probe pre-turbo. I would not install it after the turbo since a turbo works by robbing heat and you would never get a precise reading. I had to buy a right hand drill from Harbour Freight ($9.95) and my installation of the probe took about an hour. A Diesel Tech told me not to worry about the shavings. Just start the truck, let it idle and they would blow out the exhaust. I have never heard of any damage being done by metal shavings.

Randy

 

thanks a bunch. Scott

 

Great thread - thanks to all for the directions and good advice!

 

Actually, I agree with taking the manifold off if you want to be the safest. But the probe should be just after the last cylinder before the manifold flows to the turbo. This is the most sensitive spot for temperature rise and will be the fastest to show a problem if there is one.

Remember, you are drilling cast iron, small particles is what you get, not shavings like mild steel. Also, if you drill a pilot and final hole, with engine running, they all blow out the hole. I got the safety goggles with grease and tiny shavings on it.

The post turbo is also safe, but again, it is not as sensitive to temperature increase and is 350 degrees cooler. You wont see the 1050 degrees post turbo, as fast as you will see the 1350 in the pre turbo manifold because the restriction is between exhaust port and the turbine. The pre turbo changes very fast with load, that I have experienced watching my new outlook.

My plan is to go with a second pyro post turbo if I ever get a full exhaust system, then I will have both. Yes, an outlook can have both connected. They recomend both for anything over 50 Hp increases with the 6.0 at Bullydog. Makes sense to me, if I can ever afford the new exhaust, maybe a triple dog, but at this point the gauges will have to be enough.

 

Why is it that almost everyone puts the sensor before the turbo in these Ford trucks? The big tractors all have the pyro sensor after the turbo. Why are the big over the road trucks done differently than our light duty pickups?