What is the best way to install the pyro probe in the manafold i have herd to drill the hole 90% then graese the drill bit and start the engion for the last little bit then also put grease the tap to keep the metal out.

 

There's a lot of ways to do it. All three ways have been done successfully, so it is whatever makes the most sense to you. No matter what you do, unless you take the manifold off, you are going to get shavings in the exhaust, the idea is to keep them very small, and let the truck idle for a while after you're done to blow them through.

1. Grease the bit, the thought being that the grease will hold the shavings and they will come out with the bit. (some worry that the grease will get inside the manifold, and hold the shavings in)

2. Drill it dry, start with a small bit, and gradually work your way to the right size, using a shop vac to vaccuum the schavings out while you drill. (I just did this last weekend and it worked fine for me)

3. Drill it with the truck running, with the thought that it will blow the shavings back out. ( I wouldn't do it with the truck running, just in case a shaving were to get sucked in, or a broken bit...lots could go wrong)

 

I vote for PSDiesel60's #2. That's the way I did it and had no problems. Good luck.

 

The way I did mine was start small go up one drill size at a time. Drill bite dry shop vac. after finished.

 

where is the best place to put the probe i know in the left side but is there a best spot i have seen pretty much in the back of the left side?

 

Try to get it as close in line with #8 cylinder port as possible.

 

I just installed my outlook monitor, by BullyDog several weeks ago. The instructions on the web are good if you go to their site. You use a 1/8" pilot hole, grease and run the truck before you break through. It shows a pic of where, then you use 5/16" and then tap all with grease and running. I did it in my garage with the door open and it was -10 outside. It doesnt take long. You can do it, just be careful with drill and tap not to break one off. I gauruntee the pressure from idle will blow everything out, its lots of pressure, more than a vacuum could ever provide. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES and use lots of grease. Read the instructions several times. Psych yourself up to drill your baby and go for it.

 

thanks a bunch big help

 

I used the number 3 method. I started with a small bit and worked my way up. I don't see how any shavings could stay in the manifold, the shavings blow out in your face if your not careful.

 

Man, it's NOT worth the risk! Do it right and pull the manifold.

No matter what you do via grease, magnetic bits, etc, you're going to have a pile of metal shavings.

The manifold comes off easier than you think.

If your don't want to go to the trouble, then drill and tap the downpipe.

From the Banks website:

"At Banks, we typically prefer to mount the thermocouple upstream of the turbo, but this is not always convenient. In the case of the Ford Power Stroke, we opted to provide a bung in the turbine outlet pipe rather than having the customer go through the difficulty of drilling and installing a probe in a location that is hard to access. Our testing shows that the maximum allowable turbine inlet temperature of 1350 degrees is equivalent to 1050 degrees on the turbine outlet side, so that is our recommended maximum temperature when measuring in that location. The temperature differential may be broader at lower temperature ranges, but the temp that we are most concerned about is at full power."
TX

 

yes, they come out easily, but alot of people will have difficulty w/out a lift and w/ the 2 nuts and bolts from the turbo inlet pipes to the manifolds.. here in MA we have alot of rust so some may want to stay away.. unless your maifolds are leaking.. bring it in for a warranty exhaust leak and just pay the shop some extra time to drill it for you.. I would think a 1/2 hr of labor is easier to swallow than a few hrs in the driveway in cold temps. I will take mine off this week when the ultralites show up.. Good luck man.

 

i was just under my truck yesterday, in the cold, trying to see the exact location of putting this probe. i didn't think the manifold would come off very easily, and to be honest, i am kinda nervous of not getting all the shavings out even with a vacuum because you don't know what's in there.
i've thought about the down pipe as well.
how many of you have taken the manifold off? i don't have a lift and would be working in the cold, unless i wait until spring to do it. i've never removed one, how long does it take and any special tools i might need?

 

I didn't even jack mine up, much less put it on a lift. The first item of business is to remove the plastic fender well. There's a handful of screws and then some pushing and tugging, along with popping off some plastic retainers that are holding some wiring harnesses in place, and then the whole thing comes out.

Now you have a pretty clear view of the exhaust manifold.

The next step will be to remove the two bolts connecting the manifold to the turbo inlet pipe.

Then you'll remove the exhaust gas pressure sensor, which looks like an egt probe and is toward the front of the manifold.

Now you're ready to remove the manifold bolts.

Tools I used included a decent metric and SAE socket set with more than a couple of long extensions to reach up in there. Mine's an '03 with 95K miles but nothing was rusted or seized up. A decent set of metric and SAE wrenches.
And finally, depending on the size of your pyro/EGT probe, you'll need a tap that size. Mine required a 1/4" NPT size tap, which I picked up at Autozone.

I won't shine sunshine up your skirt, this isn't a "go out a pop out the two plastic tabs and one screw" job. You'll use a few choice curse words and have some skinned knuckles. And it'll take the better part of several hours.

rgds,
TX

 

everyone I know has drilled and tapped dry than shop vac the shavings out. it's not that critical, I have not heard of one problem from doing this method with the turbo ,IMHO you will and could run into alot more problems by removing the manifold, and turn a 20min job into a 4hr job. but to each his own. it is obviously an opinon related method but none is wrong. and this includes a 7.3 using this method 75k miles ago

 

Remove the manifold and drill here: