I see they have one on sale for about 50 bucks.I only need one when 2 of my cars need to pass inspection so I wont use it often,,,,,,,,Should I be ok getting a cheap one?

 

All that will do is read the code numbers, and they have a little booklet that tells what the codes are.
You might be better off going to Auto Zone and having them read the codes for free.

 

Actually I would rather have the cheap one so that I can check the code when I want instead of making a run to the parts store. That way I can find out what the code is for and go online and see what the probable causes are. The parts store will only sell what the code stands for usually and it might not solve the problem.

 

Well one of my cars a 97 POS KIA has the "check engine light" on again and it doesnt have a tag or insurance on it so taking it up the street to autozone is inpossible. I know I can fix it once Ive got the code. I dont need an exspensive code reader even though the exspensive one is far superior

 

I've cheaped out this way for years, and finally saw the light.

If you have a laptop, I strongly recommend Autoenginuity over a cheap scanner. You can get the product on ebay for $200. With this, you can check and reset codes, capture freeze frame data, and graph the sensors in real time, as the car idles or even as you drive. The freeze frame and graphical features are especially helpful for diagnosing intermittant faults.

Stick the pre-catalyst O2 sensor on the oscilloscope display (for extra credit, add short term fuel trim), and it's like having an EKG for your car.

I had a situation with a friends car where it would periodically set codes for "mixture too lean". Did the Autozone thing, changed out the O2 sensors (In part because the sensors had 125000 miles on them).

Two weeks later, the CEL was back on. So I bought the Autoenginuity product.

Got hold of the car again. The CEL was set, so I grabbed the freeze frame data and then turned the light off. The engine was running OK and the check engine light didn't come back on. But I could see from the O2 sensor waveform that there was a periodic issue with mixture control and watched the computer try to correct it.

Looking at the freeze frame data from the previous fault, I saw the short and long term fuel trims were both maxed out, the engine speed was relatively low. and the
engine load was light. Probably not a fuel supply problem; more likely MAF sensor or vacuum leak.

I visually inspected all the vaccuum hoses and could not find an issue. I spritzed the MAF sensor with contact cleaner. Then I sat and watched the "EKG" show the engine still leaning out all by itself. Convinced there had to be a leak, I checked the hoses for the fourth time. Sure enough, the PCV hose was cracked. It didn't leak until the engine rocked over enough in the mounts to open up the crack. When it did, the engine would go lean and the computer would trim it out by boosting fuel and reducing idle air bypass. In some cases it would run out of trim to accomplish this, and that's what set the CEL.

So with the correct tool instead of the cheap one, I could have saved $120 worth of oxygen sensors and a couple of hours changing them. All the car needed was 30 cents worth of vacuum hose.

 

I can see your point of not using the cheap scanners, but it also points out the problem with using the parts store as a mechanic troubleshooter. Many times finding a code and going to a place like this will give you things that you need to look at that are common faults for that make. Some of us don't have a laptop (I know I don't anyway, yet) and also $200. on a product that some aren't maybe quite technical enough to see the problem like others. I know I don't know enought to be able to see that connection to lead to a vac leak. I hope to get a setup like you are rec and try to get more knowledge about troubleshooting the problems.

 

I like the lap top idea........problem is my son is the only one with a lap top and he sure as heck wont let me use it,gezzzzzzzzz and I bought it,,,,

 

A fast way of finding those pesky vacuum leaks:

Connct your real time scan tool, select your short term fuel trim(s) as a graph or as a numeric display. Spray suspect areas with brake cleaner or B12 or ether (or anything else that works as a flammable solvent). When the solvent is sucked in, you'll see a dramatic change in the readings. Sometimes you may hear a difference when you spritz the leak, but the computer will catch much smaller leaks.

Steve

 

When it comes time for inspection, dont just use the code reader to turn off the "check engine" light, as that doesnt fool the inspectors. I've tried! You actually have to fix the car.....I never would of imagined that!

 

Actually, you don't always have to fix the car, if the problem is intermittent. You do have to get the computer to mark all the emissions related systems as "IM Ready".

After you turn off the "check engine light" it will take some driving time before this happens. The catalysit efficiency and evap emissions tests take the most time and the most complex cycles for the computer to "sign off on". But once all these systems pass, you can take the car into the inspection station and they will pass it. The problem may come back the next day; but at that point you've got your sticker for another year.

In the event of a hard and continuous fault, then yes, you will have to fix the problem before it will past state emissions inspections, even if the check engine light is still off. This may seem like an overly fine distinction, but I think it is helpful to understand what the criteria really are.