"Heat exchangers such as the radiator and intercooler work by making the air/water on the inside the same temp as the air on the outside of the radiator/intercooler. These temps will never be lower than the air going around the outside no matter how efficient they are,"

True, and the heat exchangers exchange heat at a faster rate as more air or colder air moves over them, so reduce the ability of air to move over them and the heat is retained longer.

Look at it this way; Do you think your truck will likely start easier if it spends 6 hours at 10 degrees below zero or if it spends 4 hours at 10 below? Parking your truck so it is not pointing into the wind slows the rate at which your trucks engine gives up its heat and reaches ambient temperature.

 

Well, I kinda think of it this way, Its like blowing on something to cool it faster, obviously blowing on your hot soup cools it faster than just letting it sit there. Cold air blowing through your motor compartment is going to cool your motor down faster, Keeping it out of the wind, heat can be held inside the engine compartment alot longer, thus keeping your motor warm longer. There for theres a better chance that some of the internal parts could stay warm over night. But Beach is right about it not getting any colder than the outside temp... Your all right, your just kinda talking about different things here... I live up on top of a windy hill, so my truck is like an ice cube in the mornings

 

Beach
You are correct diesel comes in type 1 which is more or less kerosene and type 2 which is the diesel we all think of. Home heating oil is a dirtier for lack of a better word of diesel and I wouldn't run that stuff in my 6L for nothing. I wll have to look later today and see if I can find better terms for the fuel and home heating oil they are different.
What one person has said about there being a dye in home heating oil is correct but then so is off road diesel dyed are they the same I am not sure but will try and find some really good terms about what they are.
Just to really get things muddied did you read your manual where it says that for model years 06 and backwards you can run type 1 and type 2 diesel in your 6L ? don't know about the 07's as I don't have a manual for them but wonder what the 6.4L will run on?

 

Running #1D or #2D is fine for all "on-road diesels. The newer 6.4L PSD just needs the <15ppm ULSD fuel. Older trucks can run on either... but to be "on-road" diesel, whether #1D or #2D, it must be only be either <500ppm for 2007 and older or <15ppm for 2008 and newer diesels... but both meet the required ASTM specs for "highway diesel fuel".

 

here on the east coast there is two types of deisel.#1 is for road use taxed,#2 off road ,heating ect you can only get it from supplyer not at pumps no tax. It burns dirty, sulfer.also its been warm here lots of #2 around had this same topic on superduty forums,idid not know out west there are different types of diesel.I would not burn our #2 in my engine.

 

350 steve
I used to live on the east coast NYs to be exact and if you bought diesel in the warm months it was #2 diesel and in the winter months it was a blend of type #2 with Type #1 added to make it work in the winter. Might be wrong but I lived there for over 50 years and that was the case the whole time I used diesel which was over 25 years. But you may right I am might be just missing something. As the normal fuel for diesels is type #2 and some do run on type #1 but it is harder to get then type #2 but what do I know like I said I only used it for over 25 years.

 

shdwlkr maybe im wrong here,but on the pumps it is listed as #1 diesel .maybe thats how the station marks the fuel?? I dont know but when ibuy home fuel ,power equipment it is listed on ticket as #2 diesel w/a stamped seal on it from the truck.IT is dyed fuel .you can not buy dyed diesel at pumps that i have seen unless you drive into oil co yard fill up tank.

 

Our very unscientific testing of fuel additives consisted of 4 different pop bottles all dryed and cleaned. 1 was howes and diesel, ps White bottle and diesel (both mixed at approximately the prper ratio). 1 howes straight up, 1 ps straight up. they were left outside in a snow bank over night at -38'C with a -45'C wind chill. Both power service bottled gelled almost solid. Neither howes had any signs of gelling. We have since stopped using PS white in our fleet and only carry 911 for emergency. Thats the facts of our test. At temps above -30'c there were no issues with PS white.

 

Not sure of the chemical attributes, but I know we used to put "Prist" into the fuel of the diesel tugs we used to pull our aircraft when the weather got really cold. And Prist was the only additive we used (and we used it all the time) in our aircraft's jet fuel. Even with temps in the wintertime routinely reaching -40 F or sometimes less at altitude fuel gelling or icing was never a problem.

Yes, the fuel was heated but only after it reached the engine nacelle, so there was nothing to heat it in the tanks.

I know it's probably prohibitively expensive ( just like anything in aviation) compared to Power Service or Howes, but has anyone used "Prist" for a PSD?

 

Well Hello from the Alaska. You more than likely have water in your fuel. Run the truck just to empty and the go and fuel it up. I go to the north slope every once in a while and never had this problems even at 40 to 60 below and use no additives.

 

Every one may and want to look at the fuel you are buying they have reinvented diesel fuel and there is no longer winter fuel. If you look at the pump it will inform you that your buying the new low sulpher fuel and its made for the 2006 trucks.
There is no differance between off road fuel (dyed) and road fuel other than the price. The price differance is because there is no road tax on the dyed fuel. So dont get caught.

 

Been running Power Service for the past 12 years in temps WELL BELOW -60 F and have never had an issue with fuel gelling up... Now in all fairness I would bet our winter fuel #1 D is treated for our winters, ie standard -40 F for a month or so then a heat wave to 0. Most of our homes in Rural Ak heat with Diesel. That comes straight from the fuel truck, to your tank and it -50 to -70 outside and I never hear of anyone gelling up. Sounds as if it bad fuel down there or more correclty no truely winter treated fuel. Just my $0.02

 

After reading farther down the page I offer my apologies to the Wikipedia free internet encylcopedia people;

"The concept of wind chill is of particular significance in very cold climates such as the Arctic and Antarctic, at high altitude, at high speeds, or in very high winds. It is of great importance to the survival of humans and animals, and can even affect machinery and heating systems."

 

If wind chill does not have any effect on metal, why put a fan behind the radiator?

 

The thing to think about here is heat transfer. There are 4 major types of heat transfer but when talking about an engine you pretty much only deal with 2 conduction and convection. Conduction is heat transferred between two solid objects, convection is between a solid object and either a liquid or a gas. The majority of the heat transfer in an engine is from convection. There are then two types of convection, natural and forced. Natural convection is caused by the difference in temperatures in the fluid. Warmer fluid rises and colder fluid drops. Forced convection is when the fluid is forced past the object. Heat transfer is greater through forced convection than natural convection and is dependent on velocity. The higher the velocity of the fluid the greater the heat transfer (if ignoring friction). By placing an coldfront on your radiator or parking out of the wind you are minimizing the forced convection and cooling your engine slower.

Windchill is just a rudimentary measuremant used to reflect forced convection on the human body.

Wow, who would have though I would be using my heat transfer class knowledge on here!