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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 09:08 AM
  #31  
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350steve
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From: bricktown NJ
Originally Posted by shdwlkr
beech
Just wondering if you know how they make winter grade type 2 diesel? It was always type 2 diesel cut with kerosene and they were still doing it last winter so if the new fuel has changed that then they are doing something different.
IN my area[NJ] #2 diesel is red diesel ,off road , home heating fuel.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 09:12 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 350steve
IN my area[NJ] #2 diesel is red diesel ,off road , home heating fuel.
Huh??? On-road diesel is what we are speaking about... so I am confused by your post above?

The different types are:

#1D
#2D
#2D - Red (off-road)
Home heating fuel (not sure if dyed or not)

#1D #2D (on-road fuel) have the same sulfur content, but the others can differ greatly from each other and I assume can be formulated differently???
 
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 09:18 AM
  #33  
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From: bricktown NJ
Originally Posted by Beachbumcook
Huh??? On-road diesel is what we are speaking about... so I am confused by your post above?

The different types are:

#1D
#2D
#2D - Red (off-road)
Home heating fuel (not sure if dyed or not)

#1D #2D (on-road fuel) have the same sulfur content, but the others can differ greatly from each other and I assume can be formulated differently???
I heat my home with oil #2 diesel,red dyed diesel. #2 has very high sulfur,soot when it burns,runs about .80 cents cheeper gal no road tax. Its #1 road fuel or #2 red dyed fuel off road thats it in nj any way
 

Last edited by 350steve; Jan 15, 2007 at 09:26 AM.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 09:51 AM
  #34  
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fpd7
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What about Stanadyne fuel additive?

I have been using that this winter, and the coldest it has been is 3*F. Till today it's 1 below. I'm afraid to try to start it. I didn't plug it in when I parked it, and now its too close to the garage wall to get to the plug. The garage isn't heated or insulated, so it's about as cold in there as it is outside. Just no wind.

So far, using Stanadyne, I haven't had any issues, and I bought a case of it. I just dump it in, rough measurement from the tick marks on the side of the bottle.

Anyone else use Stanadyne? What have been your experiences?

Thanks. Joe B.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 09:55 AM
  #35  
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4x4Mark
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From: Colorado Springs
I use it all the time and no fuel issues in 3 years. I normally have it on the block heater a couple hours each morning. But, when I leave work I don't have the luxury. After sitting out in the open all day Friday, I left work with the temp at -1. Truck fired right up- normal grumbles, but it ran good. I also run 5W-40 Synthetic oil.

I wouldn't worry about your truck if you have Stanadyne in it.

Mark
 

Last edited by 4x4Mark; Jan 15, 2007 at 09:57 AM.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 10:06 AM
  #36  
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mjstef
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From: Montana
Old Jan 15, 2007 | 10:09 AM
  #37  
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mjstef
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From: Montana
Originally Posted by shdwlkr
beech
Just wondering if you know how they make winter grade type 2 diesel? It was always type 2 diesel cut with kerosene and they were still doing it last winter so if the new fuel has changed that then they are doing something different.

It is #1 and #2. I believe Kero is different than #1...............
 
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 10:19 AM
  #38  
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150ford
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From: nebraska
If its below 0 leave your truck plugged in all night. A few hours wont be long enough. If your at work during the day. Go out when you have break an start your truck an let it run awhile. Make sure you use a blend or straight number one. I have yet to jell up yet. The cost off running the block heater is pretty minimal at best. I figure about six cents an hr. Not bad for the benefits. I just wish I could plug it in whenver I stop. Also another tip an im sure you guys do this. Make sure you park your truck down wind from the prevailing direction off the wind. Also have a cover for your radiator. Theyb have some nice covers to oppen up as much you want in cold weather. The block heater is your friend use it religiiously anleave it plugged in all night if its below 0. Set a timer an set for 4 hrs if its above. Hope this helps.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 10:36 AM
  #39  
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mjstef
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From: Montana
Originally Posted by 150ford
If its below 0 leave your truck plugged in all night. A few hours wont be long enough. If your at work during the day. Go out when you have break an start your truck an let it run awhile. Make sure you use a blend or straight number one. I have yet to jell up yet. The cost off running the block heater is pretty minimal at best. I figure about six cents an hr. Not bad for the benefits. I just wish I could plug it in whenver I stop. Also another tip an im sure you guys do this. Make sure you park your truck down wind from the prevailing direction off the wind. Also have a cover for your radiator. Theyb have some nice covers to oppen up as much you want in cold weather. The block heater is your friend use it religiiously anleave it plugged in all night if its below 0. Set a timer an set for 4 hrs if its above. Hope this helps.
Mine comes on a 4 am and the truck starts right up at 7am. We had one night so far this year at -25 and it started fine too!!


Heres what mine sounded like if not plugged in at -10

Nuther...............

And this is 20 above..............
 
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 11:11 AM
  #40  
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Beachbumcook
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Originally Posted by 150ford
Make sure you park your truck down wind from the prevailing direction off the wind. Also have a cover for your radiator.
Parking into or against the wind will not make a difference. "Wind Chill" is only a function or a facter on human or living skin...not metal parts. Ambient temps are ambient temps... and that is the only factor on your motor and fuel working or not.

Plugging in when cold is great and the colder it is the longer it must be plugged in due to the "ambient temp" of the motor and the fluid in it.

Winter time brings out the best or worst in a diesel truck.

1) Make sure batteries are both working well.

2) Use fuel additives all the time for anti-gelling & water seperation.

3) Use the block heater if available.

4) Use synthetic oil if very cold or as recommended in the owner's manual.

5) Change oil and filter o schedule as clean oil flows and protects better.

6) Make sure fuel filters are changed regularly for best performance.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 11:14 AM
  #41  
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150ford
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From: nebraska
Yah it will start but your engine will be much warmer if its plugged in all night. Below 0 leave it plugged in all night. Its only going tocost you .60 more a night ot run it that long. Pretty cheap if I might say. 18.00 extra a month. Thats only a quarter of a tank off fuel. Hey thats what I do. I go by what the weather is doing. Below 0 is pretty cold.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 11:32 AM
  #42  
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"Parking into or against the wind will not make a difference. "Wind Chill" is only a function or a facter on human or living skin...not metal parts. Ambient temps are ambient temps... and that is the only factor on your motor and fuel working or not."


Not so, wind chill effects anything that is heated including metal parts, if it didn't, you would have no need for winter fronts and radiators and air to air intercoolers would not work. Parking your vehicle so it does not face the wind will help the engine hold heat longer and warm up faster.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 12:02 PM
  #43  
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Beachbumcook
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Originally Posted by origcharger
" Not so, wind chill effects anything that is heated including metal parts, if it didn't, you would have no need for winter fronts and radiators and air to air intercoolers would not work. Parking your vehicle so it does not face the wind will help the engine hold heat longer and warm up faster.
Windchill does nothing for vehicles that are parked (so heading into the wind, or not, makes no difference). Only ambient temps make a difference.

The definition of windchill is: "Wind chill is the apparent temperature felt on exposed skin due to the combination of air temperature and wind speed."

Check this link...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_chill

Cold fronts and such are for when the motor is running and trying to keep heat in or the effects of wind or ambient temps out of the engine compartment. The question or comment that was mentioned above was about "parking away from the wind or down-wind"... and my comment was that "windchill and wind" mean nothing to metal objects and motor not running... henced parked vehicles.

I agree that radiator covers help motors heat up faster once started and stay at temp better in ultra cold areas. Once at temp, my temperature guage never moves up or down no matter if highway or low speed city driving... so I guess maybe a winter blanket for me may or may not make a difference... at least here in Kansas City, Iowa, Wisconsin and Illinois?
 
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 01:18 PM
  #44  
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A free encyclopedia is worth what you paid for it.

Wind chill effects anything that is heated.
Wind chill temperatures reflect what it feels like to living creatures.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 02:03 PM
  #45  
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Not to be arguementative...(is that a word?) but; Wind chill temperature is what the temps feel like with the wind going over your body. It is always lower since your body is always "sweating" a little. The evaporation of this water is what makes the temps feel lower. Other than a leaking degas bottle, the truck isn't sweating any.

Heat exchangers such as the radiator and intercooler work by making the air/water on the inside the same temp as the air on the outside of the radiator/intercooler. These temps will never be lower than the air going around the outside no matter how efficient they are, or if you run water over them....unless the water itself is cooler than the air, then the inside temp will try to match the water temp.

Flame suit on.

Joe.
 
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