Rebuilt 302 is overheating quickly
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 621
Likes: 2
From: Marana, AZ
I will have to go take a look at it, not sure if its adjustable or not.
What do you think about the vacuum pressure? 15" is a little low for a new motor don't you think? Or is it because my rings may have not fully seated yet?
What do you think about the vacuum pressure? 15" is a little low for a new motor don't you think? Or is it because my rings may have not fully seated yet?
Hotshot
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,170
Likes: 5
From: The hills of No. Calif.
Seems a little low but not totally out of line. Remember, you have a different cam in there now. Not much duration but a a bit of lift...could cause a difference in the vacuum I suppose, although I'm not really sure. Not much of a cam expert...
Read the material in the links I posted above. I didn't really explain it very clearly. If you change the idle screw, you must recalibrate the TPS to match it. Beofre doing that, I would test the IAC as per the instructions, possibly it only needs cleaning to solve your problem and then you can restore the idle screw to its original position.
Read the material in the links I posted above. I didn't really explain it very clearly. If you change the idle screw, you must recalibrate the TPS to match it. Beofre doing that, I would test the IAC as per the instructions, possibly it only needs cleaning to solve your problem and then you can restore the idle screw to its original position.
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 621
Likes: 2
From: Marana, AZ
Well I went out and moved the dizzy over 1 tooth, backed the idle screw down to where it was and started it up. I set the timing to 12* BTC and it idles fine now, a little low for me, right around 700 rpms. Main thing is now it goes into gear without stalling. The vacuum increased to 16" which is nice.
Took it out for a drive and the shift patterns are still a little funny. Not sure whats going on there. I just had it rebuilt before the motor went and was shifting great at that time. I am going to try and pull some codes, I noticed the check engine light came on a few times while doing the cam break-in but the light went back off after about a minute, did this 3 times.
Took it out for a drive and the shift patterns are still a little funny. Not sure whats going on there. I just had it rebuilt before the motor went and was shifting great at that time. I am going to try and pull some codes, I noticed the check engine light came on a few times while doing the cam break-in but the light went back off after about a minute, did this 3 times.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Southeast GA
I never read what tranny you had but if it's controlled with a modulator valve and you have changed cams, thus changing your vacuum to it, you could change your shift points. Again, assuming it has a modulator valve, you can get or may already have one that is adjustable. Pull off the hose and if you see a small setscrewinside the hose nipple, you can adjust it there.
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 621
Likes: 2
From: Marana, AZ
Nope, no vacuum lines that I know of. Its an E4OD 4X4 with the electronic transfer case.
The best way I can explain it is, when it shifts into gear, I get a quick little buck and it bogs ever so slightly. Not a lot, just enough to drop the rpms a little more than normal and then it picks right up. If I keep my foot into while shifting it seems better. Almost like when you learned how to drive a stick and you shifted to early and it bogged the engine a little. But it is shifting at the right shift points. I don't think its the tranny, I think its something in the motor, I quite haven't figured it out yet.
If my injectors were dumping to much fuel into the cylinders how would I know? Would I get a check engine light? I pulled the codes on the computer and got none. All I got was the I-I-I I I-I-I which in my book said everything was good, no stored codes in memory.
The best way I can explain it is, when it shifts into gear, I get a quick little buck and it bogs ever so slightly. Not a lot, just enough to drop the rpms a little more than normal and then it picks right up. If I keep my foot into while shifting it seems better. Almost like when you learned how to drive a stick and you shifted to early and it bogged the engine a little. But it is shifting at the right shift points. I don't think its the tranny, I think its something in the motor, I quite haven't figured it out yet.
If my injectors were dumping to much fuel into the cylinders how would I know? Would I get a check engine light? I pulled the codes on the computer and got none. All I got was the I-I-I I I-I-I which in my book said everything was good, no stored codes in memory.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,656
Likes: 1
with it idleing in neutral watch the rpms... turn the steering wheel all the way to one side hard, the ISC should maintain the same rpms. no drop....if it drops your ISC is not working.
And you should never ever turn that screw to change the idle, your idle is computer controled.
And you should never ever turn that screw to change the idle, your idle is computer controled.
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 621
Likes: 2
From: Marana, AZ
Originally Posted by HemiEater
with it idleing in neutral watch the rpms... turn the steering wheel all the way to one side hard, the ISC should maintain the same rpms. no drop....if it drops your ISC is not working.
And you should never ever turn that screw to change the idle, your idle is computer controled.
And you should never ever turn that screw to change the idle, your idle is computer controled.
Before I got the timing adjusted right I messed with the adjusting screw and then I couldn't get the timing set right. Tiger Dan told me to put it back to where it was.OK so the ISC, where is it and what is it really called? I thought I changed every sensor on this motor?? Lets see, there was the knock sensor, oil pressure, water temp, air temp, 02, TPS, IAC. The only thing I didn't mess with was the EGR, cause it looked good. So where would this sensor be located at?
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,656
Likes: 1
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 621
Likes: 2
From: Marana, AZ
Originally Posted by HemiEater
IAC must be the same thing......Idle Speed Controle ..... Idle Air Controle......
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,656
Likes: 1
turn your wheels hard to one side and see if it holds the idle, or put it in gear. it should drop of a second then return back to base idle....
good test to see if the IAC system is working ............................
good test to see if the IAC system is working ............................
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 621
Likes: 2
From: Marana, AZ
Well I took the truck to work yesterday and everything seems to be working fine except the shifting issue. No overheating any more
One thing I did notice when I first started the truck in the morning, I got a lifter tick for about 3 seconds and then went away. Didn't do it the rest of the day. Is that maybe because I am using the thinner Rotela-T oil?
One thing I did notice when I first started the truck in the morning, I got a lifter tick for about 3 seconds and then went away. Didn't do it the rest of the day. Is that maybe because I am using the thinner Rotela-T oil?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BTclassics
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
2
Jun 7, 2017 06:19 PM
contento
1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
Jan 24, 2017 02:50 PM
Rusty_S
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
5
Jun 22, 2016 07:52 AM
johnnydevil55
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
8
Aug 22, 2014 06:41 PM
