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Rebuilt 302 is overheating quickly

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Old Dec 24, 2006 | 04:55 PM
  #46  
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That exhaust valve looks a little cooked but it might just be the pic.

Only way to be sure is get it check at a machine shop, something is pushing the coolant out of the radiator. could even be a bad hole on the other side, get this one checked and if it's it good I'd pull the other head and it checked too.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2006 | 05:03 PM
  #47  
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Bad sealing valves and broken piston ring wont push the coolant out, but would show low compression readings. A bent valve might seal every now and again, and so will a sticky valve or a broken spring....


To be honest I would pull the other head and get them checked and freshened up.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2006 | 05:04 PM
  #48  
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Yeah, I was already content with doing that. I figured there was nothing slapping me in the face showing the problem so it could be on the other head.
 

Last edited by desertdave35; Dec 24, 2006 at 05:09 PM.
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Old Dec 24, 2006 | 05:08 PM
  #49  
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The thing that sucks is these are totally reconditioned heads that I bought from Clearwater Cylinder Head in Florida off of Ebay. I did get a 12 month warranty with them. I think I will call them and see what they are willing to do.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2006 | 05:11 PM
  #50  
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Good idea and good luck......I bought a 3000 stall converter off ebay and by the time a got to use it it was over a year later....No luck on the return..
 
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Old Dec 24, 2006 | 08:18 PM
  #51  
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Just a thought, Check the spark plug hole to make sure there's not some debris or a bur preventing the compression gauge from seating correctly. Yesterday I was getting ready to install a Ford 9" carrier into my axle housing and I noticed when I rotated the yoke one way it just stopped all of sudden and when I rotated it back the other way 360 degrees it stopped again. As it turned out I had a piece of old carrier gasket stuck between a couple of teeth on the ring gear. Sometimes it can be the little things that mess you up. Good luck!
 
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Old Dec 25, 2006 | 06:24 AM
  #52  
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Pulled the other head off last night, but same as the other. No evidence of any cracks. I think I am going to pull the valves out and look into the bowls and see if there is any cracks there.

I only need to concentrate on the exhaust valves correct?
 
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Old Dec 25, 2006 | 06:37 AM
  #53  
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don't waist your time, you can't see the cracks, get those heads to a machine shop and have them magnafluxed.

They will tare them down, clean them in what they call "hot tank", and then use a very strong eletromagnet and mist this colored very fine metal power all over the head. Any cracks will be seen after a light blow of air over a given area. I have done this my self one day when I went to the shop to pick up some parts. It was a BBF head I did and I looked everywhere for cracks could not see one anywhere, thought I was waisting my time. Sure enough after a light blow of air you could see a crack clear as a bell.

about 35.00 around here for a pair of empty heads......If they have to take them apart it's a little more.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2006 | 06:49 AM
  #54  
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Little story for ya.

The D0OE heads I ported polish cc'ed you name it. I could not get it to stop pushing coolant out of the radiator..After 1 minute of run time my hoses were hard as a rock. I thought head gaskets, well I changed them a few times before I gave it the 100psi test. and found that crack. I never had the heads magnafluxed as I should have. I had 80 hours in those heads...wish I still had them. But when I was doing all the work I never saw that crack.........
 
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Old Dec 25, 2006 | 06:51 AM
  #55  
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Good idea, I still want to pull the 2 valves on #7 and see if they slide up and down with no problem. I'm pretty convinced its either a slightly bent valve or maybe some debris that got lodged in betwen the valve seat during the compression test but is gone now.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2006 | 07:16 AM
  #56  
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use some valve grinding compound on the seats and spin the valves with your fingers lightly pulling them into the seats. do this a few times and then pull the valves, clean and look at the seats on the valve you should see a line all the way around the valve. If only half the valve seat is clean on the valve it's bent.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2006 | 07:19 AM
  #57  
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Good idea!
 
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Old Dec 25, 2006 | 11:26 AM
  #58  
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A co-worker once showed me a method of locating cracks using Muriatic acid, but I don't recall the exact procedure he used. It wasn't anything very scientific, it mainly consisted of (carefully!) pouring a little full-strength acid on the suspected area and giving it a few moments to react. I believe he then wiped or washed away the acid leaving the crack visible as the acid etched the metal and sort of sought out the crack. I have a couple of cracked heads and some Muriatic acid, I suppose I could experiment a bit and let you know what I come up with. If you try it yourself, just be very careful working with the stuff, use rubber gloves and a respirator, it's pretty caustic stuff and produces very strong fumes.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by TigerDan

I'm also wondering if you merely had the lifter preload too tight on that one cylinder. The compression had to be going somewhere...
Dan I wasn't aware there was a lifter preload on these 302. On pedestal type rockers I have always just torqued them down to 24 ft lbs. I am incorrect on my thinking?
 
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Old Dec 26, 2006 | 08:46 AM
  #60  
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Srry, brain fart on my part...I'm so used to working with the older stuff I keep forgetting about the newer non-adjustable rockers. The only newer engine I have I converted to screw-in studs with guideplates, so everything I have is adjustable...

But I still like to check the preload on those to make sure there's nothing binding anywhere, no bad lifters that won't compress or anything.
 
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